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CrazyM
110 posts

Master Geek
Inactive user


  #3299021 19-Oct-2024 07:59
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blowerdoor is done at high pressure to compare one house to another. we can estimate real world leakage rates by comparing that to the weather. for eg roughly 5ach@50 pascals = 0.35ach air leakage.

 

A lot of the blower door leakage measured will only apply to a internally pressurized situation but not in balanced (weather or BPV) situation i.e. leakage through sockets and light fittings, cabinetry, etc...

 

 

 

think of a box with 2 holes, 10 liters in and 10 liters out. then add a ppv with a third hole pushing air in 10 liters, which goes out at 5 liters through both holes. 

 

Nah, you'd have 10 litres in from 2 holes, and 20 litres out. Adding internal pressure will not reduce your reduce your outflow from +10 to +5 in one hole and at the same time increase from -10 to +5 from the other hole

 

 

 

with a bbv you have 10 liters in/out through the two holes and also 10 liters in/out though the bbv, making it 20 liters through the box. 

 

So you are getting additional airflow through less heat loss, sounds like the entire purpose.

 

 

 

air flow dries.

 

Nah, dry airflow dries. Moist airflow moistens. Hot airflow heats, cold airflow cools.

 

 

 

ppv normally turns off at high temps or switches over to a outside air source (summer vent). they slow down in cold weather but must keep going otherwise hot air will go back up in reverse and cause problems. 

 

outlet pouring cold air onto you means they put the vent in the wrong place. it should never be above seating/beds etc.

 

Agreed. On a cold night PPV has to pump in cold air in order to prevent condensation. Which then needs to be countered by adding heat, which is then being forced out of your house with no recovery.

 

 

 

ppv turning off is not good for airflow and bbv is far better in that regard.

 

Agreed

 

 

 

PPV compensates that a bit by blowing in far more air in during times when temps are better,

 

times when opening a window would suffice

 

 

 

you really need an airtight house to make effective use of a bbv. 

 

And yet my condensation is gone, my airflow in the house is increased 24/7, no uncomfortable locations due to cold/hot vents, and the additional heat loss is measured minimal.




tweake
2391 posts

Uber Geek


  #3299033 19-Oct-2024 10:05
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A lot of the blower door leakage measured will only apply to a internally pressurized situation but not in balanced (weather or BPV) situation i.e. leakage through sockets and light fittings, cabinetry, etc...

 

no. it applies every time there is wind.

 

Nah, you'd have 10 litres in from 2 holes, and 20 litres out. Adding internal pressure will not reduce your reduce your outflow from +10 to +5 in one hole and at the same time increase from -10 to +5 from the other hole

 

i was talking about a completely sealed box. the holes is the houses air leakage. theres no 10l in 20l out because its sealed. 

 

So you are getting additional airflow through less heat loss, sounds like the entire purpose. 

 

but thats only a small recovery of heat and your still letting in the stuff you want to keep out (eg humidity). so the gain is minimal. your only recovering 90% of 50% of the heat loss due to ventilation. which overall is not very much heat. its not going to pay for itself.

 

Nah, dry airflow dries. Moist airflow moistens.

 

no, because your airflow is rarely ever wet. how many times is it above 100%. 98% humidity will still dry, its just easier if its 20% humidity. 

 

Agreed. On a cold night PPV has to pump in cold air in order to prevent condensation. Which then needs to be countered by adding heat, which is then being forced out of your house with no recovery.

 

no. they pump in a small amount of cold air to prevent warm moist air from going back up through the ducts. the amount of air flow is tiny. its during the day when it warms up that they ramp up and supply the ventilation air. and yes it can have issues with not running enough at night, then not running enough during the day due to being to hot.

 

times when opening a window would suffice

 

no, because windows requires wind. light wind not enough airflow, high wind to much airflow. also who is home to open windows, thats why we have the systems in the first place.

 

And yet my condensation is gone, my airflow in the house is increased 24/7, no uncomfortable locations due to cold/hot vents, and the additional heat loss is measured minimal.

 

but you havn't measured the heat loss. you only measured one side of the equation. so you have no idea what your actual heat loss is. also the heat loss is small to start with (assuming its not a massively air leaky house), so your saving next to nothing.

 

 

 

my point here is that a cheap fan and filter will get rid of the condensation, increase ventilation, and i highly doubt you would even notice the difference in heating costs. its not until you build a decent air tight home that balanced systems are required. 

 

btw did i forget to mention branz did this testing many decades ago. i see if i can find the report again.


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