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#2805637 1-Nov-2021 17:29

Ge0rge:
After a bit of thought and measuring, we decided it could just (with legs out the roller door) be done in the workshop at home, so cue building a bullet trap!

Very nice! DIY is definitely the way to go, was looking up prices for gongs recently and decided that you could buy several wheelbarrow loads of past-their-best spuds for the price of one of those, and they're much more satisfying to shoot.

Some time ago I was in a supermarket in deepest redneckistan, USA, buying a trolley load of watermelons. The checkout operator looked at the melons and said "Going shooting, huh?". She then gave us advice on the best ammunition types to use for melons, which was generally 5.56 which stops in the melon, the 7.62 just goes straight through without much effect.

mrdrifter

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#2805639 1-Nov-2021 17:31

@Ge0rge - I like the design, nice work, and the spiral design is great for removing the energy. Not that the soft lead on the 22 is likely to do much to the steel at a 45 angle, but every year or so just check for any dimples on the steel - as most rounds are going repeatedly into the same spots. It won't impact home use like this, but it is one of the things all ranges will need to be more careful about with the new legislation requiring all ranges to be inspected and certified - Most if not all smallbore ranges already are.

The school league is a great way to start out, in most parts of the country, there are some really good clubs with different club nights and some even offer both indoor and outdoor practice based on the time of year. Practicing at home is great (and having supportive parents even better!), but having someone experienced to coach is super important! I was lucky with my club early on to have multiple Commonwealth Games and one Olympic shooter.

neb

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#2842616 3-Jan-2022 23:40

Made a set of possum feeders, the bright yellow is because they're apparently attracted to bright colours:

The cute possums come and eat the bright blue-coloured possum food. Then after awhile they feel sleepy, and have a bit of a lie-down.

eracode

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#2842632 4-Jan-2022 03:21

Our son (34) and I are about to start work on this 2.5 x 1.0 m table for the deck we built at his and his partner’s place last year. He 3D modelled it - photo below.

Will be built from 190x45, 90x90 and 90x45 mm D4S macrocarpa clears we got from Cypress Sawmill in Kaukapakapa - really beautiful timber. Cypress is a fantastic place - they get old macrocarpa trees from farmers who are clearing shelter belts and so on - and mill it into the most wonderful timber.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

Handle9

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#2842633 4-Jan-2022 03:59

eracode:
Our son (34) and I are about to start work on this 2.5 x 1.0 m table for the deck we built at his and his partner’s place last year.

Will be built from 190x45, 90x90 and 90x45 mm D4S macrocarpa clears we got from Cypress Sawmill in Kaukapakapa - really beautiful timber. Cypress is a fantastic place - they get old macrocarpa trees from farmers who are clearing shelter belts and so on - and mill it into the most lovely timber.

Looks great. Have you got a crane to lift it onto the deck :)

eracode

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#2842634 4-Jan-2022 04:04

@Handle9 We certainly had to think about that. Macrocarpa is a bit heavy but not too bad. The base and top will be made separately in the garage and we’ll get each piece onto the deck and do the final assembly there.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

eracode

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#2842635 4-Jan-2022 04:14

Owing to the inherent weakness of screwing into end-grain, all the joints in the base will be made using dowel-anchored screws. I got some 25mm kwila dowel from Dominion Handle and Dowel in Silverdale. 150mm screws will go through the first piece of timber and into the dowel in the second piece - two screws per joint. Should make very strong joints and much easier to do than mortise and tenons and similar.

We will plug the screw-head holes with kwila too. The table will be oiled and the dark ends of the kwila dowel and plugs should contrast well with golden colour of the macrocarpa as a feature of the construction.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

k1w1k1d

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#2842976 4-Jan-2022 10:22

Neat trick with the dowels, haven't seen that before.

Sort of a similar idea to the threaded metal inserts used to hold beds together.

eracode

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#2843012 4-Jan-2022 11:24

The table top will be five 190x45mm boards with 45x90 in ‘portrait mode’ mitred around the perimeter.

There will be four 1m x 12mm threaded rods running through the five main boards with nuts at each end to pull them all together.

To keep the five main boards in check, we will rout out a series of 100Lx10Wx20Dmm matching slots in all the internal edges and insert 100mm long rectangular ‘biscuits’ made from 40x10mm treated pine - six along each join. This should stop the edges moving vertically against each other.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

Ge0rge

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#2843015 4-Jan-2022 11:31

Interesting use of the biscuits along the join - I would have thought that a lot of extra work for not a lot of gain.

I built a door almost identical to what you have described, without any sort of biscuits. There have been a couple of cracks open up in it, and none of them are at the joins - the timber itself has split.

There's also a neat video on YouTube of a guy using threaded rod all the way through a bench top he was making. It was almost a disaster, and a great watch. I'm on mobile but I'll try find it later for you - as well as a couple of pictures of my door if you are interested.

k1w1k1d

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#2843016 4-Jan-2022 11:31

Will you be using epoxy between the boards or waterproof PVA glue?

eracode

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#2843021 4-Jan-2022 11:39

Ge0rge: Interesting use of the biscuits along the join - I would have thought that a lot of extra work for not a lot of gain.

I'm on mobile but I'll try find it later for you - as well as a couple of pictures of my door if you are interested.

Actually think there’s quite bit to gain. The table will be outside in rain then blistering sun and the individual boards will be very tempted to move in various directions. There’s a bit of work involved but once we’ve done a few, we’ll get quite quick at it. It’s all fun anyway.

Biscuits may not prevent all movement but hopefully will mitigate it. It should stop one board bowing in one direction against the next one bowing in the other direction. Should also stop twisting. It’s a bit hard to prevent cupping but hopefully the timber is thick enough that this won’t be an issue. We’ll look at the radial grain in the ends of the boards and alternate the directions of the grain to avoid boards cupping cumulatively in the same direction.

Would like to see your photos.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

eracode

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#2843024 4-Jan-2022 11:45

k1w1k1d:

Will you be using epoxy between the boards or waterproof PVA glue?

Good question - have thought about both but not decided. Was thinking of this - sounds good but haven’t used it before. Open to suggestion.

At one point the intention was to use no adhesive on the table top - just pull up tight on the threaded rods. The perimeter would be removable and then we could access the nuts on the rods to further tighten them if needed. Now think we will glue.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

panther2

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#2843031 4-Jan-2022 12:15

Used gorilla glue on the gates I made seems to bond well and is also water proof and easy to clean up.

eracode

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#2843045 4-Jan-2022 12:57

Senecio:

I shared this in another post but I'll add it here as its a DIY project that I'm just starting.

This is my 1976 Vespa 50s which I've just picked up..

@Senecio Just saw your post again - interested to know how it’s going.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

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