Where to get Gib / plasterboard

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#2886731 15-Mar-2022 22:22

insane:

Huh that's an interesting idea, I happen to have a bunch of that aluminium extrude and the nuts and bolts - just need some 90degree parts.

2020 might be a bit thick? Would you make a big enough jig for the whole router to ride inside it, or just the bit/busing? I usually make my router jigs out of 6mm MDF (or 3d prints) and use a router bearing bit so the bit rides on the jig rather than the router or bushing guide. Then you also don't have to worry about offsets between jig and bit.

insane

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#2886735 15-Mar-2022 22:32

I'd have to use trial and error, the trim router does have a flat edge on one side so perhaps could try making one large enough. I don't trust my Makita tablesaw to make 4 good straight cuts. The extrude was to ironically fix the table saws wobbly fence per a YouTube guide I saw.

Speaking of YouTube...

mdf: ..This is a particularly nice example..

Was thinking about this one too. Scott did another ceiling in Mairangi Bay with Parau with the same negative detailing that was direct on the framing.

richms

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#2886741 15-Mar-2022 22:57

neb:
richms:

I also want to recess my lower ones in half the sheet thickness so they do not protrude past the front of the sheet and I have screwed up twice with the router doing it.

This... sounds like something that shouldn't be that hard, just run a rebate bit around the edges. Is there some gotcha I'm missing? (Not a criticism, but trying to learn from others).

Making it the exact size of the powerpoint plate, square to the edge of the sheet and in the right place so that the socket is infront of the flushbox behind it, or close enough that it can be direct fixed without the inside bits hitting the box.

The slim outlets need more inside the wall so the 3 holesaw trick doesnt work and I dont want it to look like its been done by a school child which is about my skill level with the router and a straight edge and clamp.

Richard rich.ms

neb

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#2886807 16-Mar-2022 00:25

mdf:
2020 might be a bit thick? Would you make a big enough jig for the whole router to ride inside it, or just the bit/busing?

The whole router. It's also out of pragmatism, you can't get anything much smaller than 2020 unless you try mucking around with T-track, but then solidly attaching that at right angles is going to be tricky.

Another factor for whole-router is that I'd be nervous about running the bit up against the 2020, you'd need something like a long flush trim bit and hope you don't cut into the alu as you're running it around the edge.

Note that all this is just thinking out loud, never tried this myself or even thought about it until a few days ago but I found a video earlier today by someone who's made one from 8020 which seems like overkill and probably pretty pricey to boot, but otherwise would prove the concept.

Jase2985

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#2886864 16-Mar-2022 08:08

GIB® 13x2400x1200mm Standard Plasterboard = $33.82

Tigerply 2400 x 1200 x 12mm Non-Structural Untreated Plywood = $49.95

THats non structural, change it to structural and its about $10 more per sheet.

Add stopping and painting and they come out at a similar cost but start doing anything to the ply and it ends up being more expensive.

about all you would want to do to the ply is paint/urethane it. trying to plaster it likely wont lead to good results and would cost a lot more than just going with GIB

mdf

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#2886921 16-Mar-2022 09:27

Jase2985:

GIB® 13x2400x1200mm Standard Plasterboard = $33.82

Tigerply 2400 x 1200 x 12mm Non-Structural Untreated Plywood = $49.95

THats non structural, change it to structural and its about $10 more per sheet.

Add stopping and painting and they come out at a similar cost but start doing anything to the ply and it ends up being more expensive.

about all you would want to do to the ply is paint/urethane it. trying to plaster it likely wont lead to good results and would cost a lot more than just going with GIB

What grade plywood though? I'd guess at that price C/D? You can get some okay quality C which I've used in garages and sheds, but for a house I'd say you'd really want B at least. When Bunnings has Okoume in stock, it's more like $80 for a 12mm sheet IIRC, which is the cheapest I've seen. Baltic Birch - youtube's favourite - is double that.

Jase2985

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#2886922 16-Mar-2022 09:32

mdf:

What grade plywood though? I'd guess at that price C/D? You can get some okay quality C which I've used in garages and sheds, but for a house I'd say you'd really want B at least. When Bunnings has Okoume in stock, it's more like $80 for a 12mm sheet IIRC, which is the cheapest I've seen. Baltic Birch - youtube's favourite - is double that.

The description says "Superior quality non-structural plywood with B / C Radiata Pine face."

take that with a grain of salt

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itxtme

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#2886929 16-Mar-2022 09:40

Jase2985:

GIB® 13x2400x1200mm Standard Plasterboard = $33.82

Tigerply 2400 x 1200 x 12mm Non-Structural Untreated Plywood = $49.95

THats non structural, change it to structural and its about $10 more per sheet.

Add stopping and painting and they come out at a similar cost but start doing anything to the ply and it ends up being more expensive.

about all you would want to do to the ply is paint/urethane it. trying to plaster it likely wont lead to good results and would cost a lot more than just going with GIB

I honestly do not think the would come out similar. 13mm is for ceilings, 10mm for walls is cheaper ($30). Not to mention you can buy 2700 ($33), 3000($38) and larger even but the cost is a fraction of the price for longer sheets and ply just doesn't come like that. Also plywood takes a craftsman to work with it. So time wise you are talking big dollars on a tradesman if you want it to look good. Even butted takes skill to ensure straight lines The other thing is if its retrospective then the walls are likely not adequately prepared in terms of finishing edges etc, especially if you want something like negative detail.

mdf

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#2886930 16-Mar-2022 09:42

Jase2985:

The description says "Superior quality non-structural plywood with B / C Radiata Pine face."

take that with a grain of salt

That's a good price if it really is B grade!

networkn

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#2886940 16-Mar-2022 09:51

Jase2985:

GIB® 13x2400x1200mm Standard Plasterboard = $33.82

Tigerply 2400 x 1200 x 12mm Non-Structural Untreated Plywood = $49.95

THats non structural, change it to structural and its about $10 more per sheet.

Add stopping and painting and they come out at a similar cost but start doing anything to the ply and it ends up being more expensive.

about all you would want to do to the ply is paint/urethane it. trying to plaster it likely wont lead to good results and would cost a lot more than just going with GIB

Yup, when I saw the comment earlier in the thread, I had understood Gib/Ply were somewhat interchangeable, but not for our situation.

Ply definitely won't be the solution to the issues we have. We either need to skim or look at a combination of what can be repaired and what gib may need to be replaced to get the finish we want.

We aren't having structural issues, we don't have bowing or anything, it's just that pretty much every corner is awful, soft and not straight. I believe it may be because the corners were taped incorrectly, and I am not sure if that can be rectified without damaging the gib so badly that the gib would need to be replaced.

We need to find a seriously good plasterer/skimmer and have them come and give us an assessment, but it's really hard to find who is good enough and who will be able to give us an accurate idea on what's required.

Handle9

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#2887449 17-Mar-2022 04:09

tdgeek:

If that was the case the clickbait media would be all over that.

The media has been all over it.

martyyn

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#2887618 17-Mar-2022 15:41

Our builder has just called to say he's unlikely to get the gib he needs to start our reno until at least December.

He also said we wouldn't get any quotes for the windows, deck, kitchen, tiling, etc for months. Everyone is too busy to bother with quoting for new work.

mattwnz

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#2887936 18-Mar-2022 00:58

martyyn:

Our builder has just called to say he's unlikely to get the gib he needs to start our reno until at least December.

He also said we wouldn't get any quotes for the windows, deck, kitchen, tiling, etc for months. Everyone is too busy to bother with quoting for new work.

My parents have been waiting for over a year to get a concrete drive installed and have been strung along by a contractor who said they will do it by the end of the year. That is 2021, after already waiting a year. Other ones just aren't interested as they already have too much work. Guessing that concrete and rebar isn't the issue. NZ economy must be doing really well at the moment then. It is a really bad state of affairs as obviously the market is broken and is a major contributor to the housing crisis and the huge cost escalations with houses. Guessing that is why people are buying completed houses so they don't have to deal with this rubbish.

IMO DIY where you can is the way to go. I have done quite a bit of gibbing and plastering and because I take my time, I can get it to a very high standard, and you don't have to deal with tradies, and whether they will turn up or not.

mattwnz

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#2887937 18-Mar-2022 01:09

networkn:

We need to find a seriously good plasterer/skimmer and have them come and give us an assessment, but it's really hard to find who is good enough and who will be able to give us an accurate idea on what's required.

Most plasterers I have used are pretty good. FOr many it is all they do, so they should become expert at it eventually. But in NZ we don't tend to plaster the whole gib surface like they do in the UK. I think plastering the whole surface can produce a higher finish for a higher finishing level, but it maybe more costly and time consuming, not that I have ever plastered the whole gib wall myself.

neb

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#2888363 18-Mar-2022 17:12

mattwnz:
But in NZ we don't tend to plaster the whole gib surface like they do in the UK. I think plastering the whole surface can produce a higher finish for a higher finishing level, but it maybe more costly and time consuming, not that I have ever plastered the whole gib wall myself.

It also seems to be rather more damage-prone than unplastered gib, bumping something against it leaves a dent where for straight gib there'd be nothing more than a scuff mark.

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