Another table saw thread: B&D this time

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Bung

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#3064767 18-Apr-2023 10:00

Rather than have metal it would be better to have the bottom of the push block thick enough to run over the minimal amount of blade showing above the workpiece (20mm should be enough). That's assuming you can explain why the guard is off.

neb

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#3064769 18-Apr-2023 10:11

Bung: Rather than have metal it would be better to have the bottom of the push block thick enough to run over the minimal amount of blade showing above the workpiece (20mm should be enough). That's assuming you can explain why the guard is off.

That's the thinking behind the Microjig and its clones, but the concept of running my hands directly over, or very close to, the blade just makes me nervous. I'm sure it's perfectly safe, it just makes me uneasy seeing videos of it being used.

Bung

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#3064772 18-Apr-2023 10:40

I've made the mistake once of starting a circular saw cut with the depth adjuster loose so the blade dropped as I cut. Most table saws have to have the blade wound up or down so I can't see them rising.

neb

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#3064773 18-Apr-2023 10:46

Stu: I've been watching YouTube videos such as this one:

Have you noticed that pretty much every YT woodworking video of any level of professionalism seems to require a USD2,500 Sawstop table saw? If you got all your info off YT you'd think the only table saw that exists is Sawstop.

Which also means they could be using their fingers as a push block...

Stu

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#3064778 18-Apr-2023 11:01

Well, using fingers as a push block was always good enough for old Stumpy. Granted, he has trouble holding a pencil now.

But you're not wrong. Nice for some!

People often mistake me for an adult because of my age.

Keep calm, and carry on posting.

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Bung

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#3064841 18-Apr-2023 11:21

I've recently been watching a guy who recovers vehicles stuck on wilderness trails usually at no charge to the drivers because the content created earns him about $500. With enough followers you wouldn’t need Sawstop to sponsor you. Maybe a new blade and jam cartridge if it went off would be nice. Sawstop won't work with treated or damp timber so it's not really a complete answer.

k1w1k1d

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#3065130 18-Apr-2023 18:07

I have this set from Machinery House.

W309 - PSK5 Safety Push Blocks & Stick Set | Machineryhouse

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neb

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#3066546 21-Apr-2023 14:03

So the push blocks arrived, and they're just as bad as the Temu scam ones. Here's what's advertised:

Here's what arrived:

In their defence they're a dropshipper so would have been scammed by their supplier, but it's still annoying.

And they outgas like mad. Looks like I'll be getting a second sanding block from M10.

neb

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#3068543 27-Apr-2023 21:32

Got the feather boards from Ali, they're one of the million Rockler Feather-loc clones but pretty decent, full-sized and solidly built:

Now I need to figure out how to attach at least one of them to the fence, which doesn't have a T-track slot or anything akin to it on the side, and some oddball nonstandard one on top so I can't easily bolt an L-shaped alu extrusion to it to give me a T-track on the side of the fence.

neb

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#3076950 16-May-2023 22:50

Has anyone who owns the B+D added a soft-start module to it? It's got the near-universal 011713 NVR switch on it but then it looks like they've got separate stator and brake coils, and two of the wires leading out are bridged, so it's not clear which ones would need the soft-start module added. I'm guessing the NO contacts are live to stator and NC are live to brake with a common neutral return, but that's a bad thing to apply guesswork to.

mdf

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#3212682 31-Mar-2024 22:22

Any updates or feedback on mitre gauges? I finally saved enough pennies for a new table saw and managed to squeeze in some time over Easter getting it dialled in. As everyone noted, the mitre gauge it came with has a lot of play in it (though to my surprise, it actually had a little mini fence thing that was really helpful for getting everything parallel).

I'm currently eyeing up the Incra v27 clone / DrillPro / Wnew one recommended that @neb and @MikeAqua mention above and Hooked on Wood reviewed:

I don't think I need the fence/box joint jig though. I think I prefer a more sacrificial wooden fence I can cut into and stop tear out. And less sparks when I inevitably get it too close to the blade.

neb

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#3212688 31-Mar-2024 22:48

Still humming and hawing over the soft-start so I haven't done much more with it apart from working on a sled. I usually use the mitre saw for most things, in particular angle cuts, and got it properly squared after I realised it was about half a degree off from the factory, so haven't seen a great need for a better mitre gauge so far.

k1w1k1d

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#3212720 1-Apr-2024 09:01

What saw did you buy?

mdf

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#3213031 1-Apr-2024 19:59

k1w1k1d:

What saw did you buy?

Dewalt 7491. Really happy with it. Like a hot knife through butter compared to the 1950s era Tanner it is replacing. Its currently used on a Workmate workbench but I intend to build a nice table for it with some additional side support and outfeed.

MikeAqua

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#3213227 2-Apr-2024 14:06

mdf:

I'm currently eyeing up the Incra v27 clone / DrillPro / Wnew one recommended that @neb and @MikeAqua mention above and Hooked on Wood reviewed:

For clarification: The mitre gauge I have and recommend is the one linked to below. It's super accurate (assuming the blade is aligned to the mitre slots).

Hongdui hd-tb01 precision miter gauge 0-70 degree woodworking table saw push handle 70 angles assembly angle ruler with quick 0° 22.5° 45° 67.5° setting Sale - Banggood.com

Mike

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