Recommendations for Air Conditioning expert in Auck ?

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timmmay

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#3155549 3-Nov-2023 18:12

TeaLeaf:

So handle, that would be my HRV? How often should I replace this filter? Is difficult, only a tech would know how? How do you know so much about them? hehe

Ventilation system filters should be replaced somewhere between 12 to 24 months. If it's running all the time I'd say 12 months. Because mine runs only 4-6 hours a day I do 18 to 24 months.

Replacing a filter is extremely easy, if you can reach it. The sock type you just pull off the old one, put the new one on, maybe put on some duct tape. The box style take a little more time but is easy to do - again you want scissors, knife, duct tape. Do filter changes in the morning, ceiling spaces get hot quick.

One reason I want to go for more of a filter box with filters slotting in is they'd be a lot simpler to fit. Right now I have to get up into the ceiling space, stairs make that simpler, but then I walk over exposed beams, lay across some beams, and spend 20 minutes cutting the old filter out and putting the new one in. I don't want to be doing that when I'm 70, and I don't want to pay someone to do basic stuff.

Handle9

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#3155552 3-Nov-2023 18:18

TeaLeaf:

Handle9:
I’ve worked in the building technology space for most of my working life. I spent a fair chunk of it in project management and service management.

Geeze I wish I had that with my PM career, how did you get into that? Do you work with a lot of smart gadgets? Do you put in a lot of communication wiring ie Lan ports throughout the house. We have connections in places of the house Id never consider but its good to have a Lan from the fibre.

What are the main thingss you need to install?

I will google how to change HRV filter once I find the product number haha. Duct tape ;-p

My work history isn't really on topic or something I particularly want to post on the internet. Suffice to say I'm a qualified engineer and I've had great bosses who gave me a chance to do different things.

TeaLeaf

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#3155553 3-Nov-2023 18:19

tweake:

don't forget the hvac won't be running all the time, well at least with most kiwis. ventilation you want it to be running all the time. you can't rely on the hvac for filtering.

pretty much, light on panel turns red as its heating to the temp chosen, then at night it spends a long time blowing new cool air in.

I know a few things on this wall panel, I know how to turn it off.

Do I need to turn the switch at the switchboard off befor changing the filter?

HRV told me should be changed every year....a their call out fee, not happening. oops lol

TeaLeaf

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#3155555 3-Nov-2023 18:24

Handle9:

My work history isn't really on topic or something I particularly want to post on the internet. Suffice to say I'm a qualified engineer and I've had great bosses who gave me a chance to do different things.

Yeah fair enough, I didnt really mean you specifically but I am intersted where that industry is headed.

Same education, but I got an offer while finishing Uni to work in comms in Telco, which was exciting while it was new. No im looking to transition into something new while keeping something technical.

anyway, id love to change the filter and see how clogged the old one is :-)

TeaLeaf

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#3155557 3-Nov-2023 18:28

timmmay:

Ventilation system filters should be replaced somewhere between 12 to 24 months. If it's running all the time I'd say 12 months. Because mine runs only 4-6 hours a day I do 18 to 24 months.

Replacing a filter is extremely easy, if you can reach it. The sock type you just pull off the old one, put the new one on, maybe put on some duct tape. The box style take a little more time but is easy to do - again you want scissors, knife, duct tape. Do filter changes in the morning, ceiling spaces get hot quick.

One reason I want to go for more of a filter box with filters slotting in is they'd be a lot simpler to fit. Right now I have to get up into the ceiling space, stairs make that simpler, but then I walk over exposed beams, lay across some beams, and spend 20 minutes cutting the old filter out and putting the new one in. I don't want to be doing that when I'm 70, and I don't want to pay someone to do basic stuff.

Cheers, you all make it sound fairly easy. I will figure the model they put in first.

Timmay you sound older than me, always surprises me. I see your conundrum.

timmmay

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#3155590 3-Nov-2023 19:19

I've got a fair way to go until I hit 70! That was just an example, thinking more long term.

SomeoneSomewhere

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#3155619 3-Nov-2023 22:51

Fan-coil units and AHUs both imply heating and/or cooling of the air. The 'coil' is the air-to-water or air-to-refrigerant heat exchanger.

Lossnay, HRV, and ERV normally implies heat-recovery or energy-recovery ventilation. This is where you use the waste heat in your outgoing air to heat your incoming air, so that you're not throwing a whole bunch of air you've just spent energy heating straight back outside. Vice-versa for cooling season.

HRV the company, on the other hand, doesn't do this at all. They're just selling you a jumped-up fan with a filter.

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TeaLeaf

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#3155710 4-Nov-2023 12:01

Confused by that. anyway, regardless of brand name (ie HRV, DVS etc), the majority of NZ home ventilation systems are PPVS (postive pressure ventilation system). where by it uses dry filtered air to force the damp stale air out of any areas like under doorways etc.

The difference in condensation with it off vs on is physically noticeable. There is zero mould build up with one, which is huge if you are a severe asthma or allergy sufferer vs homes that do not have positive pressure ventilation.

The filters are a lot cheaper than I expected and based on what Ive seen should be simple enough install for most people who DIY etc (you know your own limits of course).

Every site I go to suggests HEPA filters are worth the extra cost as they reduce finer air born particles that impact asthma/allergy sufferers.

Im now reconsidering using ducted air con for the half of the house that is open plan, essentially 4.5 rooms, rather than a 10kw unit in the corner, which means it cant vane side to side and will be blowing cold air over the hottest space in summer where the door is slid open and closed constantly as it leads to the outdoor dining area, But I know the cost will be a LOT more and it wont add value when it goes on the market. There is an in wall Rinnai that heats that whole area up dang fast. But I know the air con is a lot cheaper to run, new buyers wont be thinking about that Im sure.

timmmay

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#3155712 4-Nov-2023 12:07

Can you please clarify what you are trying to achieve and your layout? It might be difficult for us to understand the space, perhaps you should get a professional and and tell them what you're trying to achieve rather than ask for a ducted solution.

High wall units can direct the air up, down, left, right. Deducted units can have diffusers that while they don't move, can push parts of the air in different directions, and you can change the directions between summer and winter. Did you see the diffuser section on my tutorial?

TeaLeaf

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#3155721 4-Nov-2023 13:24

timmmay: Can you please clarify what you are trying to achieve and your layout? It might be difficult for us to understand the space, perhaps you should get a professional and and tell them what you're trying to achieve rather than ask for a ducted solution.

High wall units can direct the air up, down, left, right. Deducted units can have diffusers that while they don't move, can push parts of the air in different directions, and you can change the directions between summer and winter. Did you see the diffuser section on my tutorial?

might be easier if I post arch diagram of the area, because the high wall unit problem is it sits in a corner, so it cant go right, we left the old one permanently right, which in practical sense sends the air toward the inside half. If they can be put up sort of facing from the corner (each end of unit touches a different wall) covering the 90 degree corner, that would work much better.

Have had a tech out, he said roof is too low for ducted, had another tech say otherwise. Clearly the HRV is ducted. But I think first guy was saying where the pump enters the roof cavity, the angle will be too low, but I think he was basing that on were the current high wall unit is, which would be worst spot for a ducted pump.

I will let you know what the mitsy and daikin guys have to say.

I was surrised at this poll for customer satisfaction and other factors, I took it with big pinch of salt, with Fujjitsu last.......

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TeaLeaf

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#3158071 10-Nov-2023 15:06

Have couple quotes coming out next week, but can anyone confirm this is all genuine? Has some good unit prices,,,

High Wall - NZ DEPOT

tweake

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#3158079 10-Nov-2023 15:33

TeaLeaf:

Have couple quotes coming out next week, but can anyone confirm this is all genuine? Has some good unit prices,,,

High Wall - NZ DEPOT

i had a look at some units that i'm familiar with and their "special" prices are what you can get them at most other shops. the 74% discount is marketing BS.

TeaLeaf

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#3158084 10-Nov-2023 15:55

tweake:

High Wall - NZ DEPOT

Cheers good to know. We spending more money on an allergy focussed system in the largely enclosed bedroom. For the open plan i see 7-8kw systems with hitahci etc for $1800 + installl ($900?). They wanted $3700 for a fujitsu system.

This guy is always cheap, is he legit etc? FUJITSU, MITSUBISHI, DAIKIN Heat Pumps Auckland (heatpumpdiscounters.co.nz)

TeaLeaf

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#3158112 10-Nov-2023 18:04

tweake:

you can get them at most other shops.

Do any other shops list the prices online of just the models?

I dont need anything fancy to replace the mitsubishi, it was under powered. any budget focussed 7.5-8kw system would be fantastic.

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