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461 posts

Ultimate Geek
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Topic # 179288 3-Sep-2015 09:58
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Hi guys,

Been trying to figure out how best to stop water coming in under my garage roller doors.  Unfortunately due to "clever" design by whomever built the garage in the first place, the floor is flat and level with the outside driveway.
So any rain that comes from that side tends to blow under the doors.

I've found a few things online in the UK etc but nothing similar here.
For example:

Had a look at the usual obvious websites for Mitre10, Bunnings and Raven, but nothing comes close.

Considering doing something similar with 50x50 timber, dynabolts and sealant if I can't find a suitable off the shelf option.

Does anyone know of anything similar to the WeatherStop products that are easily available here?

Thanks in advance.

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408 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 124

  Reply # 1378819 3-Sep-2015 10:11

Have you tried Para Rubber?

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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1378822 3-Sep-2015 10:15
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I've seen people selling similar products on Trade Me.  They are used for running electrical cables outside but have pretty much the same profile and I expect would do the same job.

Unfortunately I can't think what they are called at the moment.


Fully Operational
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  Reply # 1378824 3-Sep-2015 10:17
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Could you get a ditch cut just outside the door?  Probably more effective than trying to "stop" water.

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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1378830 3-Sep-2015 10:23
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Some of the safety companies sell similar floor mounted profiles to that for the purposes of traffic control and covering cords pipes etc.


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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1378890 3-Sep-2015 10:44
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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1378893 3-Sep-2015 10:45
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Just get a concrete cutter to cut a small channel in the concrete under just in front of the door. It does;t have to be massive or deep, just enough to catch the water. Something 5mm wide would be enough.

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  Reply # 1378898 3-Sep-2015 10:50
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BTR: Just get a concrete cutter to cut a small channel in the concrete under just in front of the door. It does;t have to be massive or deep, just enough to catch the water. Something 5mm wide would be enough.

That will only work if it has somewhere to drain to. If the drive is at the same level as the garage floor (pretty sure building regs state 100mm below floor level for paths and drives btw) the cut will fill up and then you are back to the water getting in.

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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1378928 3-Sep-2015 11:07
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Try Dynex Extrusions, there is a high probability that anyone that makes doors locally buys their seals from them

Our garage door has a 'D' section rubber seal attached to the bottom edge which might help your issue

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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1378951 3-Sep-2015 11:31
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My first thought was that you’ll probably have to run a channel drain along the front of the garage to really get it sorted out. That would need a concrete cutter and a but of sweat but you’d be able to do it. I’d say 100mm wide channel would stop anything. You could either fill it with pea gravel with a nova coil and sock to ensure it drains to each end, but then you’ll need to figure out where it goes from there. 

And then I saw some of the bunding links people posted. It’s the opposite of fitting a seal to the door but seems like a smart solution to the problem. 

Give these guys a call and ask about garage door threshold seal kits.

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  Reply # 1378954 3-Sep-2015 11:35
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i brought one from raven i believe it was

its a metal strip with a rubber seal that you bolt/screw into the concrete under the door (i silicon sealed and used liquid nails as the concrete wasnt flat), then it has a rubber seal that you mount on the bottom of the door which compresses when the door is shut

has significantly reduced the water in our garage, but hasnt stopped it.

ours is a roller door

it was one of these i believe:

i called them and enquired about it, and they were very good to deal with on the phone in finding a solution for me

was also under 150 for it all if i remember rightly

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  Reply # 1378956 3-Sep-2015 11:38
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I have the same problem. When I reconcreted the drive I put a slot drain in front of the door but that doesn't stop the water that runs down the face of the door and gets blown under the door. You need an up stand behind the edge to block the water. I put in a concrete version of your timber batten but that hasn't bonded to the old concrete 100% and some water still seeps in. I would use 100x50

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  Reply # 1379540 4-Sep-2015 09:37
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Some (mainly older) roller doors have a steel angle section facing backwards at the bottom of the door panel.  That makes it very easy to attach an inexpensive and effective seal - you can buy lengths of automotive door seal with a profile as below which will simply slide over the edge of the angle, it only takes a few minutes to fit.  With the stuff I've used, the circular part of the profile is about 20mm - larger than you'd normally see on a car door seal. The rubber is weather resistant, and unlike the typical PVC seals which are sold for the purpose, it stays soft so that it always conforms to the often uneven concrete surface - or around a stone or twig etc if it's on the floor.
If the roller didn't have angle at the base to fit a seal like that, then I'd still look at options for fitting that kind of seal material - as it's better than PVC.
Some roller and sectional doors come with PVC seals fitted.  Mainly useless - unless on a brand new and well float-finished floor - and the door was installed and aligned properly (not always the case).
A ditch/drain in front doesn't solve the problem in some cases.  There's a drain in front of my garage door, but the door is South facing, plenty of wind blown rain hits the door, runs down, and used to blow under.  Most new garages have a rebate/step cast into the floor, but not common in old garages.
If adding a seal to a roller or sectional door with an auto opener, you may (or probably will) need to adjust the down limit on the auto.  Extra care with sectionals needed - as if the down limit is too low and the sensitivity setting not right, then the auto will be forcing the top panel very hard against the lintel - something will eventually break - either the auto or even the top panels can split where the bracket from the auto pole attaches.
If you are having to use fasteners to fit a seal, drill and use small (4mm) aluminium pop rivets.  Self-tapping screws will come loose and fall out or bright galv ones just rust and seize if they don't fall out first - making future maintenance a PITA. 

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 1409980 20-Oct-2015 17:48
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I went with the timber option sealed with Gorilla Foam.
4x1 so the cars can easily go over them and it's tall enough to create enough of a barrier.
It finally got a test on the weekend with a suitable wind/rain combination.  Result, no water ingress.  :-)
Looks like this:

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  Reply # 1410613 21-Oct-2015 17:43
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Good job i need to do the same with my garage door.

I was going to recommend this, this would work, Im thinking of using it and its 50mm high

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