Any electrician out here or someone who has knowledge?

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quebec

852 posts

Ultimate Geek

#197947 19-Jun-2016 17:56

So I decided to change my season security light and it didn't go so well. Should have taken a pic of wires before removing but didn't think that the same sensor also powersee up 2 lights on each side of garage and one at the main door.
Anyways, so as you can see in the pic the extra green wire with red tape on it must be for the extra lights and I don't know where to put it. Sensor lights working fine but the extra lights have stopped working which were before I pulled it apart.
Any ideas where this extra wire should go? Thanks

gbwelly

1243 posts

Uber Geek

#1576683 19-Jun-2016 18:33

Assuming US colors on the black/white side, and that the earth has been used for phase then connect it to the pair of black wires. Or you might die, not sure.

If you don't have a comfortable understanding of the setup then you will either have to take the time to figure it out or call a sparky.

pipe60

127 posts

Master Geek

#1576691 19-Jun-2016 18:59

The black wire from the fitting appears to be the switched output to the lamps and your extra wire.

Note its not legal to use a sleeved earth as a power conductor anymore.

elpenguino

3427 posts

Uber Geek

#1576724 19-Jun-2016 20:07

if the light is anything like one i used, you will have 3 wires going to the IR motion detector / controller and 2 going to each lamp.

One of the 3 wires going to the central controller is a switched phase (hot) . This wire goes to each lamp holder. You connect this switched phase to the green (sleeved to red).

so to sum up, the central controller has

1 - neutral

2 - phase in

3- phase out

You want to connect the sleeved wire to 3-phase out.

If you connect it to 1 - your lights wont work

If you connect it to 2 - your lights will work all the time

Bearing that in mind, you cant go wrong (unless you really try).

Re the comment about illegal use of sleeved earth wires,it's only illegal for new installations.

Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21

richms

28198 posts

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#1576794 19-Jun-2016 22:20

Are you certain that the sensor can support the load of the additional lights on it?

Also, at least they bothered to sleeve it, most never bothered IME

Richard rich.ms

quebec

852 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1576820 19-Jun-2016 23:53

elpenguino:
if the light is anything like one i used, you will have 3 wires going to the IR motion detector / controller and 2 going to each lamp.

One of the 3 wires going to the central controller is a switched phase (hot) . This wire goes to each lamp holder. You connect this switched phase to the green (sleeved to red).

so to sum up, the central controller has

1 - neutral

2 - phase in

3- phase out

You want to connect the sleeved wire to 3-phase out.

If you connect it to 1 - your lights wont work

If you connect it to 2 - your lights will work all the time

Bearing that in mind, you cant go wrong (unless you really try).

Re the comment about illegal use of sleeved earth wires,it's only illegal for new installations.

Can you please explain as per my picture by mentioning colours. At present the bulbs on the sensor light unit work but not the other lights that used to work before. 1 black and 1 white wire is coming out of each bulb. Black, blue and brown coming out of the sensor unit. Three wires coming from mains side, red, black and sleeved red. (Can someone explain why it's sleeved and is this the wire for threxample extra lights?) Brown from sensor connected to red from mains, blue from sensor connected to black from mains also connected to white from bulbs as per blue shorted wire. Now next is the pair of blacks from bulbs connected to one black from sensor. I don't remember removing any wires except the 3 from mains so hopefully all others from the unit should be in correct places as in the pic. Now, if I'm right so far, where should I connect the red sleeved wire? Please note light is working, only the extra bulbs on side of garage wall and at the entrance don't work.

quebec

852 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1576821 19-Jun-2016 23:54

richms:
Are you certain that the sensor can support the load of the additional lights on it?

Also, at least they bothered to sleeve it, most never bothered IME

Yes before I tried replacing the light sensor was powering the additional lights.

andrewNZ

2487 posts

Uber Geek
Inactive user

#1576842 20-Jun-2016 07:11

It goes in with the blacks from the lamps.

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farnorthtv

9 posts

Wannabe Geek

#1576866 20-Jun-2016 08:34

Sleeved green is really a phase wire (not good) .If put in with blacks from the lamps all should work.

BUT..1:Daylight Sensors are normally rated at 300 watts ie 2x 150watts. So possible to overload.

2: ES lampholders must have phase wire connected to the centre pin and neutral to the thread.

quebec

852 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1577144 20-Jun-2016 14:48

andrewNZ: It goes in with the blacks from the lamps.

Thanks all good now

quebec

852 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1577149 20-Jun-2016 14:49

gbwelly:
Assuming US colors on the black/white side, and that the earth has been used for phase then connect it to the pair of black wires. Or you might die, not sure.

If you don't have a comfortable understanding of the setup then you will either have to take the time to figure it out or call a sparky.

Thanks working now

quebec

852 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1577151 20-Jun-2016 14:50

Thanks everyone. It's working now. One last question, is there an easy way to bypass the sensor and turn the lights just by using the switch in the wall.

richms

28198 posts

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#1577152 20-Jun-2016 14:51

farnorthtv:

Sleeved green is really a phase wire (not good) .If put in with blacks from the lamps all should work.

BUT..1:Daylight Sensors are normally rated at 300 watts ie 2x 150watts. So possible to overload.

2: ES lampholders must have phase wire connected to the centre pin and neutral to the thread.

Compliant ES holders should have nothing connected to the thread, there is a second contact that the shell of the lamp will connect to once it is in far enough that it is not a major finger hazard.

Only silly American ES holders have the entire thread connected to the supply, those have not been allowable for a veeeeery long time outside the US. It therefore doesnt really matter a huge amount which way around the leads to a E27 holder are connected since it will not connect till the lamp is all the way in.

Richard rich.ms

richms

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#1577153 20-Jun-2016 14:53

quebec: Thanks everyone. It's working now. One last question, is there an easy way to bypass the sensor and turn the lights just by using the switch in the wall.

Depends on the sensor, some have an override that is triggered by turning the switch off for a second or 2 and then back on, some need you to do that twice. Should be in the book that the sensor came with.

I try to get ones without that since it means the lights go permanantly on whenever there is a brief power interupttion which is quite often according to my UPS's beeping. Used to find the outside lights were on all day for a few days before I noticed in summer.

I now also have them on wemo switches that are set to go off during the day which prevents the remaining ones from staying on for too long.

Richard rich.ms

quebec

852 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1577277 20-Jun-2016 17:02

richms:
quebec: Thanks everyone. It's working now. One last question, is there an easy way to bypass the sensor and turn the lights just by using the switch in the wall.

Depends on the sensor, some have an override that is triggered by turning the switch off for a second or 2 and then back on, some need you to do that twice. Should be in the book that the sensor came with.

I try to get ones without that since it means the lights go permanantly on whenever there is a brief power interupttion which is quite often according to my UPS's beeping. Used to find the outside lights were on all day for a few days before I noticed in summer.

I now also have them on wemo switches that are set to go off during the day which prevents the remaining ones from staying on for too long.

Thanks. Can you recommend a good sensor light as the sensor in this one is ridiculous, never works. Sometimes I have to tap it, lol.

Willuknight

146 posts

Master Geek

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#1577649 21-Jun-2016 13:28

I'm slowly switching mine over. They were the old bulb + sensor type. I'm switching them to brand new LED Arlec sensors. The important thing is that the sensor has a lux, sensitivity and timer options.

Bunnings, $35-$40