Resene or Dulux paints for linearboard ?

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Resene or Dulux paints for linearboard ?

steevg

90 posts

Master Geek

#205139 31-Oct-2016 14:12

Hey guys,

Anyone had experience (trade's comments welcome) of using Resene or Dulux paint on LinearBoard?

I'm intending to paint the outside of our 7 year old single storey linearboard house (central North Island). As with a many locations around NZ, we get a wide variety of weather - blisteringly hot days in the summer, to frosts/snow in the winters. The existing LinearBoard looks like it was given just one coat of light grey paint when it was originally built (is linearboard pre-painted at the factory prior to supply on site?), and it has suffered badly from the heat on 3 sides, to the point where the outer coating has gone very chalky.

A couple of questions:

Deluxe Weathershield or Resene - which has the best properties for a long lasting durable paint for linearboard? (I'm told by our local shop, Resene have a UV/Infra Red repelling paint available now? Do Dulux have similar?)
Do these newer paints need "special" preparation to make them really effective and longer lasting? If so what?
Brush or roller? I tried a couple of rollers over the last weekend, but keep getting an orange peel effect - not badly, but not as smooth a finish as I'd have expected.
Do these paints require undercoat - some of the info I've read about Dulux talk about "self-undercoating" paints?

Any other help, comments or advice, greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Steve

timmmay

20575 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#1661486 31-Oct-2016 15:37

Both are good brands. The key to painting is:

Preparation
Using the appropriate sealer and/or primer
Preparation
Using the appropriate paint
Preparation

A paint store can advise you quite well.

PS Preparation is the most important part of painting.

steevg

90 posts

Master Geek

#1661622 31-Oct-2016 18:31

Hi timmmay,

Thanks . .. so thereon you've hit the problem,\!

We have stores stocking both brands, & funnily enough, each store has 2 very nice ladies behind the counter, helping out! Unfortunately in both cases, they are not technical, admit to not having any hands on experience and are referring to their handbooks for information.

I'm a tradie from days gone by, and understand the importance of preparation as you've outlined, but from testing a couple of area's around the outside of the house, the Resene paint seems to have a better finish. It's not a brand I've used previously, and so I'd like to get some feedback from someone who's actually used either for a large job like this, and understand if either or both still require undercoat!

Appreciate your input!

timmmay

20575 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#1661628 31-Oct-2016 18:47

I don't know what linearboard is, but I've done a fair bit of painting of my own place. You need to make sure the surface is clean and sticking, whether that's paint or bare wood. Bare wood needs priming, paint that's well stuck can be cleaned and painted over.

mdf

3513 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#1661672 31-Oct-2016 19:55

I've used both; both are good brands. As a student job I worked in a Resene Colorshop and have always tended to go with the Resene products (all else being equal) just because I knew them better. Resene is also a local company (paint is produced in Wellington) and have great technical support online and via 0800 RESENE.

For Linea, Resene actually has some specific guidance (though I didn't go looking for Dulux's equivalent): http://www.resene.co.nz/homeown/painting-your-home/paintingexttimber6.htm

While self priming paints exist, I always use a dedicated primer undercoat, particularly for high wear areas (and the external sun is most definitely "high wear"). The Resene brand name for this is "Quickdry". If you're going on new substrate, one coat will be enough. I have been known to do two undercoats if I'm changing colours. Undercoat will block old colours more effectively than the topcoats.

If you wanted to go with a darker colour, definitely Resene's "Cool Colour" range is a good option. According to its marketing, it reflects light in at the IR end of the spectrum, while absorbing visible light, so dark colours appear dark while not overheating. Haven't used it though.

MikeAqua

7773 posts

Uber Geek

#1661716 31-Oct-2016 20:54

I painted Linea with dulux paint in 2004 in sunny location. House still looks good. No chalkiness or visible deterioration of the paint. I'm sure it has faded a bit but it has done so evenly, no patches or anything.

No special prep just good wash with a nylon bristled brush and good rinse. Then sprayed it on and rolled it in.

Mike

steevg

90 posts

Master Geek

#1661752 31-Oct-2016 21:53

Hi guys,

timmmay: Thanks again, yup understand about all the prep stuff, LinearBoard is a relatively new product which is yet (I believe) to stand the test of time (25/50 years+). I didn't build my place, so the choice wasn't mine - that said it looks pretty good - but as I said, I'm only 7 years in! Appreciate the input.

Mike: Thanks for the stamp of confidence in Resene, didn't know the support number or about the UV / IR product, so will give them a call tomorrow. I like the idea that they are "local" and understand the conditions, though I guess Dulux is worldwide and one would expect a similar level of resilience in their product.

Totally agree about the primer/undercoat - just wanted to see what the "experts" think about self-priming paints. As we're not looking to move anytime soon, I'd rather do the job once (or as few times as possible, so it's important to me to put in the hard yards this time around and do the job properly!

Any idea if the Dulux and Resene products are water based - & will either the "QuickDry", "1 Step" or "Prepcoat" (http://www.dulux.co.nz/products/dulux-exterior-products/preparation) be suitable for the others' top coats?

There also seems to be a bit of talk about dark colours vs lighter colours (apart from the obvious issues that lighter colours won't fade as quickly, and darker colours (generally) absorb the heat), and whether the manufacturer's warranties cover darker colours. Any comments about that?

MikeAqua: Thanks also for your contribution - was the Dulux you used a matt, semi-gloss or full gloss? The ladies in the shop are advising that Dulux only comes in semi, and that all the tradies are using that or full gloss (really???) - to be honest, I've yet to see (what I'd consider to be ) a full gloss exterior on any house, unless it's not what I'm expecting to see.

So you sprayed it on first, then brushed it? Interesting, tell me more!

dusty42

117 posts

Master Geek

#1662325 1-Nov-2016 21:53

mdf:

If you wanted to go with a darker colour, definitely Resene's "Cool Colour" range is a good option. According to its marketing, it reflects light in at the IR end of the spectrum, while absorbing visible light, so dark colours appear dark while not overheating. Haven't used it though.

I dunno if cool colour is useful for linear board per se, but it is some awesome technology that made me smile first time I saw it working. Get close to painted wall in direct sunlight and your skin can feel an awesome amount of energy radiating off. Not exactly heat mind (cause the paint and wall etc stay relatively cool), but radiant energy. Very cool.

Equinox IT

Cloud spending continues to surge globally, but most organisations haven’t made the changes necessary to maximise the value and cost-efficiency benefits of their cloud investments. Download the whitepaper From Overspend to Advantage now.

steevg

90 posts

Master Geek

#1662586 2-Nov-2016 11:44

Dusty . . . I'll give Resene a call today to see if they recommend it for LinearBoard.

The weather's getting better, so keen to get started ASAP, but just need to make a decision which one's going to be best for us.

mdf

3513 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#1662667 2-Nov-2016 13:09

steevg: <snip>

Any idea if the Dulux and Resene products are water based - & will either the "QuickDry", "1 Step" or "Prepcoat" (http://www.dulux.co.nz/products/dulux-exterior-products/preparation) be suitable for the others' top coats? <snip>

The Resene recommended options in the link in my earlier post suggests a coat/spot priming with Quickdry, then three coats of Sonyx 101 semi-gloss. Both of these are water based paints. All weatherboard paint will be acrylic (i.e. water based).

You will need an enamel for windows - these come in both acrylic and oil-based. Most wood primers and undercoats are waterbased, however there are some woods (particularly cedar) that you can only use an oil-based primer on. If you were committing the sacrilege of painting cedar weatherboards (or, more likely, cedar windows) you'd need to use a different product.

mattwnz

20141 posts

Uber Geek

#1662699 2-Nov-2016 13:57

I always use resene on my projects. Just don't use trade quality paints, always use the premium ones.

steevg

90 posts

Master Geek

#1667311 10-Nov-2016 12:30

Thanks again guys,

OK so Im going wiht Dulux Weathershield, seems to be a lot of good things said about Dulux paints around the web generally, nothing too bad about Resene, but I have to pick one!

So just looking for recommendations for the best Dulux undercoat to use and also what (white) Dulux for the soffits?

Thanks