Getting screws to hold in end grain

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Getting screws to hold in end grain

jimbob79

657 posts

Ultimate Geek

#208377 9-Feb-2017 12:33

I saw this simple trick of screwing into end grain timber and it asks for 'hardwood' plug/dowel. Looking at the local sources Mitre10/Bunnings that they seam to only sell pine dowel rods. Do you think pine will work for this trick????

Ref: http://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/endgrain_screw.html

1 | 2 | 3

657 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1717616 9-Feb-2017 12:39

Also I find city timbers painful to deal with, customer service is shocking.

Dynamic

2768 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#1717635 9-Feb-2017 12:57

That's a nice trick.

I assume they are looking for a hard wood so the screw bites in a bit better than softer pine. Pine would do the trick, but a hardwood would be more likely to hold firm if the joint were stressed.

"4 wheels move the body. 2 wheels move the soul."

“Don't believe anything you read on the net. Except this. Well, including this, I suppose.” Douglas Adams

mdf

2552 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Subscriber

#1717647 9-Feb-2017 13:16

Very cool trick. I usually use twin threaded screws in end grain with a pilot hole and they seem to hold okay, but can see the point of this approach for anything carrying any kind of weight.

I've put together beds that use barrel nuts, I'm guessing for the same reason. Dowels would be a lot more forgiving if your hole wasn't perfectly 90 degrees though.

Coil

6615 posts

Uber Geek
Inactive user

#1717655 9-Feb-2017 13:23

A pine dowel will split very easily.
You would most likely require a hardwood dowel and to drill a pilot hole.
If the dowel is very snug you may get away with it being pine.

MikeAqua

5680 posts

Uber Geek

#1717666 9-Feb-2017 13:43

I doubt pine will work not only is is weak it's dimensionally unstable. Aluminium rod will work with generous pilot holes if you can find some suitable offcuts.

Epoxy works too - drill the hole as for a dowel and pour in the epoxy mix. When it's mostly set (solid but not hard) screw into it. I've done this successfully using epoxy araldite. Just be aware the epoxy is stronger than the wood so you won't get it apart again without breaking something.

Mike

jimbob79

657 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1717678 9-Feb-2017 14:00

I was looking at using Rimu dowel rod (if I can find it) but I don't think that I will be strong enough either.

MikeAqua

5680 posts

Uber Geek

#1717701 9-Feb-2017 14:26

jimbob79:

I was looking at using Rimu dowel rod (if I can find it) but I don't think that I will be strong enough either.

Rimu is very hard and reasonably strong when dry. Thin pieces tend to split easily along the grain. You would want to get your pilot holes right.

Mike

ubergeeknz

3344 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Vocus

#1717703 9-Feb-2017 14:30

Why not use a barrel nut / cross dowel nut like on flat-pack furniture?

Example: https://www.bunnings.com.au/prestige-m6-x-13mm-cross-joining-dowel-4-pack_p4012978

mdf

2552 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Subscriber

#1717707 9-Feb-2017 14:35

jimbob79:

I was looking at using Rimu dowel rod (if I can find it) but I don't think that I will be strong enough either.

Are you in Wellington? You mentioned City Timbers. Mouldings and Finishings used to sell rimu dowelling. They've closed their showroom but are still selling stuff (I think).

jimbob79

657 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1717708 9-Feb-2017 14:37

ubergeeknz:

Why not use a barrel nut / cross dowel nut like on flat-pack furniture?

Originally I was going to use threaded inserts for my shelving project and I thought it was a bit over kill. That's when I saw this handy trick of using a dowel/plug and hence the reason on starting this thread. Using a barrel nut seams an over kill.

jimbob79

657 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1717710 9-Feb-2017 14:40

mdf:

jimbob79:

I was looking at using Rimu dowel rod (if I can find it) but I don't think that I will be strong enough either.

Are you in Wellington? You mentioned City Timbers. Mouldings and Finishings used to sell rimu dowelling. They've closed their showroom but are still selling stuff (I think).

I think moldings and finishing have shut-up-shop. The last time I went there about 18 months ago the business was up for sale.

ubergeeknz

3344 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Vocus

#1717711 9-Feb-2017 14:40

jimbob79:

ubergeeknz:

Why not use a barrel nut / cross dowel nut like on flat-pack furniture?

Originally I was going to use threaded inserts for my shelving project and I thought it was a bit over kill. That's when I saw this handy trick of using a dowel/plug and hence the reason on starting this thread. Using a barrel nut seams an over kill.

It's probably going to be a lot easier than all the dressing and mucking around required to use a dowel ;) but that's just me. Also it will be better if you have to dismantle it. Given they're used in flat pack furniture you can probably get them fairly cheap, the link was just the first example that popped up. Anyway up to you really. If you want the joint to be permanent, just screw it and glue it, that should be ample, or use a corner block.

jimbob79

657 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1717719 9-Feb-2017 14:49

To help you guys a bit better on what I'm trying to achieve, here is what I'm building. It just trying to find the best method of attaching the shelves to the 'door'.