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657 posts

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#208377 9-Feb-2017 12:33
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I saw this simple trick of screwing into end grain timber and it asks for 'hardwood' plug/dowel. Looking at the local sources Mitre10/Bunnings that they seam to only sell pine dowel rods. Do you think pine will work for this trick????

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ref: http://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/endgrain_screw.html






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657 posts

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  #1717616 9-Feb-2017 12:39
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Also I find city timbers painful to deal with, customer service is shocking. 






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  #1717635 9-Feb-2017 12:57
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That's a nice trick.

 

I assume they are looking for a hard wood so the screw bites in a bit better than softer pine.  Pine would do the trick, but a hardwood would be more likely to hold firm if the joint were stressed.





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mdf

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  #1717647 9-Feb-2017 13:16
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Very cool trick. I usually use twin threaded screws in end grain with a pilot hole and they seem to hold okay, but can see the point of this approach for anything carrying any kind of weight.

 

I've put together beds that use barrel nuts, I'm guessing for the same reason. Dowels would be a lot more forgiving if your hole wasn't perfectly 90 degrees though.


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  #1717655 9-Feb-2017 13:23
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A pine dowel will split very easily.
You would most likely require a hardwood dowel and to drill a pilot hole.
If the dowel is very snug you may get away with it being pine.


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  #1717666 9-Feb-2017 13:43
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I doubt pine will work not only is is weak it's dimensionally unstable.  Aluminium rod will work with generous pilot holes if you can find some suitable offcuts. 

 

Epoxy works too - drill the hole as for a dowel and pour in the epoxy mix.  When it's mostly set (solid but not hard) screw into it.  I've done this successfully using epoxy araldite.  Just be aware the epoxy is stronger than the wood so you won't get it apart again without breaking something.





Mike



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  #1717678 9-Feb-2017 14:00
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I was looking at using Rimu dowel rod (if I can find it) but I don't think that I will be strong enough either.






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  #1717701 9-Feb-2017 14:26
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jimbob79:

 

I was looking at using Rimu dowel rod (if I can find it) but I don't think that I will be strong enough either.

 

 

Rimu is very hard and reasonably strong when dry.  Thin pieces tend to split easily along the grain.  You would want to get your pilot holes right.





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  #1717703 9-Feb-2017 14:30
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Why not use a barrel nut / cross dowel nut like on flat-pack furniture?

 

 

 

Example: https://www.bunnings.com.au/prestige-m6-x-13mm-cross-joining-dowel-4-pack_p4012978

 

 

 

 


mdf

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  #1717707 9-Feb-2017 14:35
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jimbob79:

 

I was looking at using Rimu dowel rod (if I can find it) but I don't think that I will be strong enough either.

 

 

Are you in Wellington? You mentioned City Timbers. Mouldings and Finishings used to sell rimu dowelling. They've closed their showroom but are still selling stuff (I think).




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  #1717708 9-Feb-2017 14:37
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ubergeeknz:

 

Why not use a barrel nut / cross dowel nut like on flat-pack furniture?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Originally I was going to use threaded inserts for my shelving project and I thought it was a bit over kill. That's when I saw this handy trick of using a dowel/plug and hence the reason on starting this thread. Using a barrel nut seams an over kill. 








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  #1717710 9-Feb-2017 14:40
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mdf:

 

jimbob79:

 

I was looking at using Rimu dowel rod (if I can find it) but I don't think that I will be strong enough either.

 

 

Are you in Wellington? You mentioned City Timbers. Mouldings and Finishings used to sell rimu dowelling. They've closed their showroom but are still selling stuff (I think).

 

 

 

 

I think moldings and finishing have shut-up-shop.  The last time I went there about 18 months ago the business was up for sale.






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  #1717711 9-Feb-2017 14:40
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jimbob79:

 

ubergeeknz:

 

Why not use a barrel nut / cross dowel nut like on flat-pack furniture?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Originally I was going to use threaded inserts for my shelving project and I thought it was a bit over kill. That's when I saw this handy trick of using a dowel/plug and hence the reason on starting this thread. Using a barrel nut seams an over kill. 

 

 

It's probably going to be a lot easier than all the dressing and mucking around required to use a dowel ;) but that's just me.  Also it will be better if you have to dismantle it.  Given they're used in flat pack furniture you can probably get them fairly cheap, the link was just the first example that popped up. Anyway up to you really.  If you want the joint to be permanent, just screw it and glue it, that should be ample, or use a corner block.




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  #1717719 9-Feb-2017 14:49
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To help you guys a bit better on what I'm trying to achieve, here is what I'm building. It just trying to find the best method of attaching the shelves to the 'door'. 

 

 

 

Click to see full size

 

Click to see full size






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  #1717724 9-Feb-2017 14:53
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I'd probably put small battens underneath and screw into the door and the bottom of each shelf.


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  #1717726 9-Feb-2017 15:00
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What a cool little project, Is this an operating door to hide shelves or decorative shelving.

 

How much weight are you holding on the shelves?

 

Are you going for the most discrete look with floating shelves?

 

 


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