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Topic # 224034 30-Oct-2017 09:40
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Hi I could not find the old lawnmower threads so I made a new one.

 

We have a decent sized lawn that can be quite boggy (not sure if it helps but put it down anyway) - I don't worry too much about it however.

 

My old lawnmower hit the tramp and the blades are bent. I think I'll spend a few dollars on a new one. 

 

They range from $299 to $1000. I don't need anything fancy, but which is the most bang for buck? Don't care about electric or petrol as long as 

 

 

- it cuts good

 

- it has low maintenance in that time

 

- preferably very easy to start every time

 


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  Reply # 1892477 30-Oct-2017 10:30
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Probably want a fairly good branded one (from a mower shop), with a good body that wont rust.  

 

I have a 15year old Victor.  Been serviced twice in that period (whoops), but still starts after the 2nd pull.  Cost about $700 when I bought it back then.  The motors on the cheapies are probably fine, but it's the body that will rust.





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  Reply # 1892478 30-Oct-2017 10:31
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There is some interesting reading in these threads, the first of which is from this time last year.

 

https://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=141&topicid=204854 

 

https://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=141&topicid=198674

 

https://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=141&topicid=189607&page_no=1

 

The first is general, second discussed petrol vs electric, third looked at battery powered options.  But it might help if you gave some idea of the size of lawn at least to allow for more informed discussion/advice - for instance, I have a John Deere X300R ride-on with 42" deck and it can take me up to three hours to mow my lawns with it - a "reasonable sized lawn"!! :-) 






"It is useless to attempt to reason a man out of what he was never reasoned into."
— most commonly attributed to Jonathan Swift, author/theologian

 
 
 
 


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  Reply # 1892482 30-Oct-2017 10:36
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You seem to get more bang for buck with petrol than battery electric.  Mains electric are cheap.

 

Personally I would look at four things if going with a petrol mower

 

Engine: Go 4 stroke unless you have to mow very steep lawn.  A Briggs and Stratton or Honda engine will last a very long time.  Our mower is about 20 years old and just starting to blow a bit of blue smoke (indicating worn rings)

 

Deck:  Get a solid deck. 

 

Blades: Look for the short blades that screw onto the central rotor - they are consumer replaceable.

 

Wheels: Look for robust wheels.  With your boggy areas, wider/bigger wheels are better.





Mike

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  Reply # 1892492 30-Oct-2017 11:04
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I've got ~10 lawns to mow on my property, sadly none of them are really "big" enough for a ride on.

 

After spending a lot of time doing some research I settled on this badboy.  I realise it's more than what you want to pay, but with a bit of haggling you can get the price down from the RRP! Maybe not to the point you want though.

 

But yea, it's been great since I got it.  The self propelled aspect makes the chore much less of a hassle.  It's never failed to start for me, a full tank of petrol seems to last for AGES.  Comes with a mulching attachment too for the verge lawns that I can't be bothered catching.

 

The only issue I've had with it is that it doesn't have much "grunt" as my old 2 stroke banger, it tends to choke up in long grass sooner than ol' smoky did.

 

I'm very happy with it, but of course I'm going to say that.

 

 




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  Reply # 1892505 30-Oct-2017 11:20
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davidcole:

 

Probably want a fairly good branded one (from a mower shop), with a good body that wont rust.  

 

I have a 15year old Victor.  Been serviced twice in that period (whoops), but still starts after the 2nd pull.  Cost about $700 when I bought it back then.  The motors on the cheapies are probably fine, but it's the body that will rust.

 

 

Not worried about rust, never had a steel lawnmower that rusted. I keep in the garage. Are you saying you can leave an alloy mower in the rain and the handles won't fall off? I had an expensive alloy something (can't remember what) and all the bolts and screws rusted and broke. Never again buying anything just so it doesn't rust.


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  Reply # 1892513 30-Oct-2017 11:34
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Batman:

 

Not worried about rust, never had a steel lawnmower that rusted. I keep in the garage. Are you saying you can leave an alloy mower in the rain and the handles won't fall off? I had an expensive alloy something (can't remember what) and all the bolts and screws rusted and broke. Never again buying anything just so it doesn't rust.

 

 

The new steel decks vs the old steel decks are a completely different beast. The new cheap steel decks are made out of rubbish. I'd certainly recommend a decent alloy deck.





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  Reply # 1892515 30-Oct-2017 11:35
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What area is your decent size lawn?

 

Mower maneuverability? Trees? Shrubs? Garden edges?





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  Reply # 1892516 30-Oct-2017 11:36
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Batman:

 

 

 

Not worried about rust, never had a steel lawnmower that rusted. I keep in the garage. Are you saying you can leave an alloy mower in the rain and the handles won't fall off? I had an expensive alloy something (can't remember what) and all the bolts and screws rusted and broke. Never again buying anything just so it doesn't rust.

 

 

The 'non-rust' part is the alloy cutting deck.  Steel cutting decks can rust quite quickly if left with wet grass clippings stuck to the inside surface.  Depends on where and how the mower is stored. 

 

Many mowers have a little hole for garden for a hose on the top surface of the deck, just run it for 30 seconds with water squirting in and it self cleans.





Mike



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  Reply # 1892518 30-Oct-2017 11:40
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Gordy7:

 

What area is your decent size lawn?

 

Mower maneuverability? Trees? Shrubs? Garden edges?

 

 

No to trees. Yes to shrubs, Yes to edges, there are lots of grass on the edge of shrubs, tarmac-lawn bowndary, lawn-fence interface.

 

Lawn I think about 500m2. I think. But it's very boggy.




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  Reply # 1892519 30-Oct-2017 11:42
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MikeAqua:

 

Batman:

 

 

 

Not worried about rust, never had a steel lawnmower that rusted. I keep in the garage. Are you saying you can leave an alloy mower in the rain and the handles won't fall off? I had an expensive alloy something (can't remember what) and all the bolts and screws rusted and broke. Never again buying anything just so it doesn't rust.

 

 

The 'non-rust' part is the alloy cutting deck.  Steel cutting decks can rust quite quickly if left with wet grass clippings stuck to the inside surface.  Depends on where and how the mower is stored. 

 

Many mowers have a little hole for garden for a hose on the top surface of the deck, just run it for 30 seconds with water squirting in and it self cleans.

 

 

Had my $299 ?mitre10 mower for 6 years now, it's defintiely not alloy nor plastic, so i think steel, never cleaned any wet grass off it (or maybe I only mow when it's not too wet because of boggy ground?), no problems. just getting hard to start.


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  Reply # 1892520 30-Oct-2017 11:42
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Batman:

 

Gordy7:

 

What area is your decent size lawn?

 

Mower maneuverability? Trees? Shrubs? Garden edges?

 

 

No to trees. Yes to shrubs, Yes to edges, there are lots of grass on the edge of shrubs, tarmac-lawn bowndary, lawn-fence interface.

 

Lawn I think about 500m2. I think. But it's very boggy.

 

 

If it really boggy, might a flymo (can you still get those?) work?





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  Reply # 1892526 30-Oct-2017 11:53
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I have 550m2 lawn which gets flooded several times in winter but drainage is not too bad.

 

Takes approx 1.5 hours to mow, emptying the catcher into compost bins. Don't use the mulching option.

 

I keep the lawn-fence edges trimmed with Roundup.

 

Lawn Master
Metro Plus - Mulch and Catch
Model 201602
steelfort.co.nz

 

Just on $600 in March 2016.

 

Happy with this mower.

 

 





Gordy



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  Reply # 1892560 30-Oct-2017 12:44
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davidcole:

 

Batman:

 

Gordy7:

 

What area is your decent size lawn?

 

Mower maneuverability? Trees? Shrubs? Garden edges?

 

 

No to trees. Yes to shrubs, Yes to edges, there are lots of grass on the edge of shrubs, tarmac-lawn bowndary, lawn-fence interface.

 

Lawn I think about 500m2. I think. But it's very boggy.

 

 

If it really boggy, might a flymo (can you still get those?) work?

 

 

I think the flymo will explode. It comes with a cord doesn't it? If I don't get electrocuted before it explodes that is. The lawn itself is 500m2 I think (no more than 7-800m2 probably). My petrol Briggs and Stratton already struggles with the grass alone before meeting the other stuff on the lawn. (twigs, cabbage tree leaves, other long leaves, etc that i didn't manage to clear)


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  Reply # 1892569 30-Oct-2017 12:52
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Keep the blades reasonably sharp.... Less stress on the motor....

 

 





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  Reply # 1892578 30-Oct-2017 13:21
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Batman:

 

davidcole:

 

 

 

If it really boggy, might a flymo (can you still get those?) work?

 

 

I think the flymo will explode. It comes with a cord doesn't it? If I don't get electrocuted before it explodes that is. The lawn itself is 500m2 I think (no more than 7-800m2 probably). My petrol Briggs and Stratton already struggles with the grass alone before meeting the other stuff on the lawn. (twigs, cabbage tree leaves, other long leaves, etc that i didn't manage to clear)

 

 

There used to be a petrol one as well.  But the main disadvantage was no catcher.  But if you do frequently that becomes less of an issue.





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