Joining weatherboards end to end without cracking

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timmmay

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#248404 25-Mar-2019 07:55

We have an older weatherboard house. An extension was added by a previous owner years go. Where the weatherboards join end to end there's always cracking, about 6-10 weatherboards from the bottom up. That's probably letter water in, and it's a bit ugly.

I've tried various types of filler, and the professional painter tried whatever they use, but over the course of a few weeks it always cracks.

The painter said we should put metal strips over the area, then prime and paint. Is this a good plan? What are they called, these strips? Assume they come from Miter Ten or similar?

doublek

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#2204535 25-Mar-2019 07:58

Hello

These are called Soakers.

Not sure on the ease to retrospect them, as they are normally fitted when the W/Boards are being put on. Any of the usual DIY places will have people that can advise you on how to retrospect and also about treating the cracked or exposed pieces before the soaker goes on.

timmmay

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#2204538 25-Mar-2019 08:08

Ah, same as the corner ones. I've found them on the Bunnings website.

Our weatherboards are painted cedar. The website says don't use galv for cedar, use stainless or copper, but they also sell "cedar galv" soakers. Copper is about 4x the price, I guess I'll ask in store.

I have a good builder who's retrofitted them to a whole house, so he can do it. He says it's fiddly, you end up having to get them up under the weatherboards, cutting and such. To get the corners on the whole house done was going to cost a few thousand so we skipped that for now. But doing a dozen is fine.

Additional question: Does anyone know the difference between these soaker types? Standard bevel back, rebated bevel back and splay cut/

dazhann

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#2204539 25-Mar-2019 08:09

We, Carters, stock flat soakers for 150 and 200 weatherboards. They are actually 125 and 180 long. The top of the soaker should fit under the weatherboard above.

timmmay

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#2204540 25-Mar-2019 08:10

dazhann:

We, Carters, stock flat soakers for 150 and 200 weatherboards. They are actually 125 and 180 long. The top of the soaker should fit under the weatherboard above.

Thanks. If the soaker goes under the weatherboard above, and you supply 125mm for 150mm weatherboards, isn't it too short?

What type of soaker do you use for cedar?

dazhann

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#2204542 25-Mar-2019 08:27

The weatherboards overlap, so a 150 may only have 120mm exposed. If your painting the cedar these ones, if unpainted you can get copper. If you have wider than 200m weatherboard these will be too short.

timmmay

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#2204543 25-Mar-2019 08:32

The weatherboards are painted, these might go over the top of the paint, or the builder said he could probably have them sit flat if we wanted them to. Not sure i'd bother with that. For the sake of an extra $20 I'd probably get copper, so long as I can paint it ok.

I'd have to measure the weatherboards, but I guess they're 150mm. They're a very old profile, last time I had to replace some I had to get them custom made.

I'll pop into Carters on the weekend thanks.

dazhann

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#2204544 25-Mar-2019 08:34

If you google sigma soakers it will show full range. Seems they go up to 300mm

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mdf

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#2204560 25-Mar-2019 09:20

+1 to what others have said.

You need to match the soakers to the profile and size of your weatherboard. Frankly, I'd just ask your builder to source and install. Otherwise probably go and buy one of each to find the best fit and then return the others and swap for the right profile.

Stainless will be fine if you're painting anyway. You need a non ferrous primer if you're painting copper and need to make sure that there's no bare steel (e.g. downpours, roofs) where water may flow between steel and copper. i.e. copper is a bit of a hassle unless you really want it for the look.

And whatever you get, make sure you get nails to match. i.e. copper nails for copper soakers.

timmmay

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#2204643 25-Mar-2019 12:21

Thanks @mdf. I'll measure, buy the right kind or a few to try, and builder can install. Cheaper to source it myself and have the builder come do it. For these small jobs it would add a lot of cost for them to drive there, check types, bring them back, try them, exchange them, etc. Just doing the work is easy.

lapimate

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#2204914 25-Mar-2019 22:56

timmmay:... I've tried various types of filler …

Including Low Modulus (ie elastic) silicone? I've seen some reservations about soakers on the grounds that they may encourage retention of moisture/rotting however maybe that would not apply to cedar.

timmmay

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#2205045 26-Mar-2019 10:57

lapimate:

timmmay:... I've tried various types of filler …
Including Low Modulus (ie elastic) silicone? I've seen some reservations about soakers on the grounds that they may encourage retention of moisture/rotting however maybe that would not apply to cedar.

I'm not sure I have tried silicone or no more gaps yet... I may have a while back and not remember, or maybe I didn't get around to it. You don't tend to get as good a surface, at least not when I do it. Maybe I try that first, and if it doesn't work well I'll put the soakers over the top of it.

lapimate

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#2205059 26-Mar-2019 11:45

timmmay: … I'm not sure I have tried silicone or no more gaps yet ...

Is No More Gaps ["Exterior & Weatherboard is a water based acrylic sealant"] in the same league as a high quality low modulus silicone sealer?

timmmay

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#2205060 26-Mar-2019 11:47

lapimate:
timmmay: … I'm not sure I have tried silicone or no more gaps yet ...
Is No More Gaps ["Exterior & Weatherboard is a water based acrylic sealant"] in the same league as a high quality low modulus silicone sealer?

No idea. I have a few different types and they're usually not expensive. Recommendations welcome.

Bung

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#2205084 26-Mar-2019 13:19

timmmay:
lapimate:
timmmay: … I'm not sure I have tried silicone or no more gaps yet ...
Is No More Gaps ["Exterior & Weatherboard is a water based acrylic sealant"] in the same league as a high quality low modulus silicone sealer?

No idea. I have a few different types and they're usually not expensive. Recommendations welcome.

"Not expensive" doesn't sound promising 😁 Most weatherboard recommendations are to prime ends well twice with an oil based primer and top coat. Add a soaker if necessary. AFAIK any sealant exposed to UV doesn't last long.

timmmay

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#2205099 26-Mar-2019 13:45

Bung:
"Not expensive" doesn't sound promising 😁 Most weatherboard recommendations are to prime ends well twice with an oil based primer and top coat. Add a soaker if necessary. AFAIK any sealant exposed to UV doesn't last long.

Any of the gap filler type products tend to be $10 to $20.

The painters have just put standard putty into the gap between the weatherboards, primed, and painted. I don't think that's going to work. Either they or I will have to remove it, prime the ends if I can find a small enough brush, fill with a flexible filler, prime, and paint. Last time they did gap filling they filled, primed, and painted with virtually no gap between those activities...