Need some painting advice

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David321

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# 253159 30-Jul-2019 07:04

Hi all,

I am currently having my kitchen renovated in my house which was built in the early 50's, currently focusing on the walls and they were a wallpapered top half with plasterboard pressed into the shape of tiles on the lower half. I have removed the wallpaper from the top half of the walls and found that the plasterboard under it seems to have had some sort of skim coat in the past as it is not a chalky white surface but more of a hard smooth-ish surface which made removal of the wallpaper with a scrapper very easy as was hard to damage the walls with it. When it came to the lower plaster board moulded into tile my best bet was to remove the lower half of the wall and secure new gib.

I now have a plasterer in plastering all my joins and then will skim coat the top half of the walls to bring them to a smoother finish to (hopefully) match the gib so when its finally painted the top half of the walls will not look a bit rougher than the bottom half.

From my limited knowledge of painting most people go for a pigmented sealer after removing the wall paper and then (i think) two top coats of wall paint above that, but my plasterer highly recommends a product by dulux called "1 Step Prep", its a water based undercoat and then two coats of wall paint of my colour of choice.

Although I do not doubt his advice I would like to seek the opinion of other pro's in how I should go about painting my kitchen walls with all I have written above in mind. Is this "1 Step Prep" the way to go or should I be using and oil based Pigmented Sealer? or possibly even something else?

Thanks!

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# 2285448 30-Jul-2019 07:09

You can get oil based 1 step prep. Pretty sure that's what I used on my Cedar weatherboards outside. It's worked well to stick and cover stains.

eracode

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# 2285450 30-Jul-2019 07:28

Re your last para: acrylic paint is water-based (or at least water soluble/cleanup) - it sounds like you think it isn’t. i.e. you can use acrylic over the 1 Step Prep.

David321

127 posts

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# 2285451 30-Jul-2019 07:31

eracode:

Re your last para: acrylic paint is water-based (or at least water soluble/cleanup) - it sounds like you think it isn’t.

Thanks, suspected that, but wanted to check

timmmay

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# 2285452 30-Jul-2019 07:31

Also - call the Dulux help line on 0800 800 424. They'll give you good advice.

David321

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# 2285453 30-Jul-2019 07:32

timmmay: You can get oil based 1 step prep. Pretty sure that's what I used on my Cedar weatherboards outside. It's worked well to stick and cover stains.

Yeah I have seen you can get oil based, not sure of the difference in performance though, I told my plasterer this and he said stick with the water base as its much easier to work with and clean up

mdf

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# 2285454 30-Jul-2019 07:34

Use an oil based pigmented sealer over old gib to stop tannin staining leaching through. Water based sealer is fine over new work. Both can be top coated with standard interior acrylic paint after the appropriate dry time (much longer for oil than acrylic).

timmmay

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# 2285508 30-Jul-2019 08:21

David321:

timmmay: You can get oil based 1 step prep. Pretty sure that's what I used on my Cedar weatherboards outside. It's worked well to stick and cover stains.

Yeah I have seen you can get oil based, not sure of the difference in performance though, I told my plasterer this and he said stick with the water base as its much easier to work with and clean up

My understanding is better stain hiding, better adhesion, and will probably last longer. It might be more difficult to clean up, but I use rollers and chuck them out when I'm done. Rollers and a couple of brushes cost nothing in the context of renovations.

eracode

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# 2285513 30-Jul-2019 08:43

timmmay:

David321:

timmmay: You can get oil based 1 step prep. Pretty sure that's what I used on my Cedar weatherboards outside. It's worked well to stick and cover stains.

Yeah I have seen you can get oil based, not sure of the difference in performance though, I told my plasterer this and he said stick with the water base as its much easier to work with and clean up

My understanding is better stain hiding, better adhesion, and will probably last longer. It might be more difficult to clean up, but I use rollers and chuck them out when I'm done. Rollers and a couple of brushes cost nothing in the context of renovations.

Little Tip: Not only do I throw cheap paint rollers away (rather than clean and re-use) I also put the whole paint tray inside a plastic bag and pour the paint into the bag-covered tray. Then instead of having to clean the tray, I drain any remaining paint back into the tin then just throw the bag away - leaving the tray clean.

It’s actually easier to get any remaining paint from the bag back into the tin than it is from the tray - pick up the bag with the paint drooping in a ‘pouch’, snip a hole in the bottom of the pouch - and the paint drains into the tin and the bag can be squeezed to get it all out.

I know that throwing rollers away is wasteful but cleaning rollers is not easy and I find pre-used rollers don’t finish as well as virginal ones.

lxsw20

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# 2285592 30-Jul-2019 10:25

Pig sealer is (or was until a few years ago) required on aqualine gib, because of the wax like coating. On standard gib, water based should be fine.

1101

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# 2285744 30-Jul-2019 13:57

If painting over (old) gib, get a sealer thats designed for this .

I learnt that the hard way , made one hell of a mess of things .

David321

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# 2285747 30-Jul-2019 14:05

1101:
If painting over (old) gib, get a sealer thats designed for this .

I learnt that the hard way , made one hell of a mess of things .

I think Resene Pigmented Sealer seems to be the best product for this sort of thing after a bit of research. Still there is so many products available it's hard to know for sure.

What happened to you?

mdf

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# 2285793 30-Jul-2019 14:54

Both Resene and Dulux work well in my experience.

geoffwnz

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# 2286979 1-Aug-2019 09:47

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eracode:

I know that throwing rollers away is wasteful but cleaning rollers is not easy and I find pre-used rollers don’t finish as well as virginal ones.

Gotta wonder what is worse, throwing them away, or spending much time and a massive volume of water trying to clean them.

If I'm doing several coats on consecutive days, then I put the roller head into a ziplock bag (double bag if you prefer) overnight. Stops the paint drying on the roller and eliminates the need to clean it between uses. That way I only need to clean off the handle and the paint tray between painting sessions.

MotorDrive Rallying

mdf

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# 2286995 1-Aug-2019 10:03

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geoffwnz:

eracode:

I know that throwing rollers away is wasteful but cleaning rollers is not easy and I find pre-used rollers don’t finish as well as virginal ones.

Gotta wonder what is worse, throwing them away, or spending much time and a massive volume of water trying to clean them.

If I'm doing several coats on consecutive days, then I put the roller head into a ziplock bag (double bag if you prefer) overnight. Stops the paint drying on the roller and eliminates the need to clean it between uses. That way I only need to clean off the handle and the paint tray between painting sessions.

If you stick it in the fridge (in a bag or gladwrap), it will pretty much last indefinitely without drying out. You do need to let it warm up a bit prior to using it though.

1101

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# 2287223 1-Aug-2019 15:38

mdf:

If you stick it in the fridge (in a bag or gladwrap), it will pretty much last indefinitely without drying out. You do need to let it warm up a bit prior to using it though.

fridge/freezer gets stinky if you do that . Tried it, never again. :-)

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