First time paint weatherboards

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David321

485 posts

Ultimate Geek

#279808 10-Nov-2020 14:50

Hi all,

I am about to make use of the finer weather by starting a job I have put off for many years now, painting my entire house, the weatherboards to be specific.

I am not sure what type of paint is currently on the weatherboards as I bought the house with it already on, but it is still in fairly good condition, there is just some flaking and peeling on very small areas on the corners and around the doors etc.

I was dreading this job as I thought giving the entire house a sand would be necessary for better adhesion of the paint, but I have just read the Resene claim their Sonyx 101 does not require previously painted weatherboards to be sanded as it has excellent adhesion.

I know some paints falsely claim this as its a great selling point, but I believe Resene is a trustworthy company so I inclined to believe them, I was just wondering if anyone else here has info that may be usefull?

P:S Ill be using Resene Sonyx 101 for sure as I can get it very cheap through someone I know.

_David_

gbwelly

1243 posts

Uber Geek

#2601063 10-Nov-2020 15:02

My only advice is paint it exactly the same colour that it is currently.

I believe what you are planning is referred to as 'giving it a coat of paint', rather than painting the house.

timmmay

20580 posts

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#2601065 10-Nov-2020 15:04

You will of course have to sand all the flaking areas, and potentially prime them if you get through to wood. I'd also suggest a really thorough house wash before you paint, a brush does a MUCH better job than a water blaster, harder on the arms is all. Pay attention to up under the weatherboards, they get dirty there.

David321

485 posts

Ultimate Geek

#2601071 10-Nov-2020 15:13

gbwelly:
My only advice is paint it exactly the same colour that it is currently.

I believe what you are planning is referred to as 'giving it a coat of paint', rather than painting the house.

Thank you for your very helpful answer.

_David_

David321

485 posts

Ultimate Geek

#2601073 10-Nov-2020 15:14

timmmay:
You will of course have to sand all the flaking areas, and potentially prime them if you get through to wood. I'd also suggest a really thorough house wash before you paint, a brush does a MUCH better job than a water blaster, harder on the arms is all. Pay attention to up under the weatherboards, they get dirty there.

Yeah will be sanding those areas for sure, main question is can I get away without sanding the rest of the weatherboard when using Resene Sonyx 101?

_David_

jbrook3708

34 posts

Geek

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#2601087 10-Nov-2020 15:42

I painted my entire 1930's bungalow a few years ago in my spare time. Took me about 12 months, most of the time was prep work including replacing a larger number of weatherboards past their used by date. I bought two sanders, a small Black&Decker Mouse and a larger Makita orbital sander. In the end I hardly touched the orbital sander, just too cumbersome to use, instead the Mouse was perfect. As mentioned you only need to sand where the paint is flaking or is looking tired. I changed to a different colour (also Resene) and experienced no issues (two coats, no primer except for new weather boards). A small roller is great for the face of the weatherboard and a small brush for underneath and the edges. I also bought a Transforma ladder for the job, ideal for reaching up to the top of the barge boards.

timmmay

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#2601098 10-Nov-2020 15:57

David321:
timmmay:

You will of course have to sand all the flaking areas, and potentially prime them if you get through to wood. I'd also suggest a really thorough house wash before you paint, a brush does a MUCH better job than a water blaster, harder on the arms is all. Pay attention to up under the weatherboards, they get dirty there.

Yeah will be sanding those areas for sure, main question is can I get away without sanding the rest of the weatherboard when using Resene Sonyx 101?

My non-expert opinion is if the paint is sticking well to the weatherboards and you clean them well to remove dirt, spiders, cobwebs, etc, you should be fine just doing a coat or two. I'd take the advice of Resene though, they might even send someone over to give you an opinion.

mattwnz

20157 posts

Uber Geek

#2601099 10-Nov-2020 15:58

Guessing that was just doing it in the weekends. I am guessing replacing weatherboards in a 90year old house would' t be easy to get the same size they use today.

Going around open homes at the weekend, it is depressing to see the large amount of painting and cladding work many NZ older houses / villas etc need. So many badly painted, and using builders bog to fill holes and paint over it. Some they just paint over the rot and the surface of parts of the weather boards and window frames are spongy. Then they are wanting nearly a million dollars for it.

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mattwnz

20157 posts

Uber Geek

#2601101 10-Nov-2020 16:08

I would make sure that the flaking paint isn't lead based. I think resene can test for you. Also wouldn't recommend using water blaster on cladding, as it can cause a lot of damage.

Arcturi

18 posts

Geek

#2601281 10-Nov-2020 19:51

You can also buy DIY kits to test for lead, from memory I think about $20 to test 2 spots, Mitre 10 and other hardware stores have them.

gbwelly

1243 posts

Uber Geek

#2601288 10-Nov-2020 20:04

David321:
gbwelly:

My only advice is paint it exactly the same colour that it is currently.

I believe what you are planning is referred to as 'giving it a coat of paint', rather than painting the house.

Thank you for your very helpful answer.

Just to be clear, I am not being facetious, when you are three coats in and you can still see the old colour coming though it's pretty soul crushing. Also when you are 6 months in and only two sides of the house are done at least the house is the same colour the whole way round.

pih

649 posts

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#2601312 10-Nov-2020 20:28

Two coats of good quality exterior paint are usually enough, unless the new colour is very different or you're painting a lighter colour onto a darker one. Cheap and even some mid-range paints may struggle, but I wouldn't expect a Resene paint would be much of a problem. It's always prudent to test a patch (maybe 2 sqm) to check how is going too look. If the old colour does bleed, apply a good quality primer/blocker/undercoat and try again.

David321

485 posts

Ultimate Geek

#2601324 10-Nov-2020 20:40

Thanks for all the replies guys, my main question is still remaining though. Is it necessary to sand when using Sonyx 101?

_David_

timmmay

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#2601330 10-Nov-2020 20:50

That's a question for Resene or to try out.

Froglotion

208 posts

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#2601470 11-Nov-2020 07:26

A quick hand scuff with sandpaper wouldn't take long. A good opportunity to check condition of boards as you go around. Prep is most of the job. If they claim you don't need to sand, read the application instructions as they may provide situations where a quick sand is recommended.

tdgeek

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#2601488 11-Nov-2020 07:55

Froglotion: A quick hand scuff with sandpaper wouldn't take long. A good opportunity to check condition of boards as you go around. Prep is most of the job. If they claim you don't need to sand, read the application instructions as they may provide situations where a quick sand is recommended.

If they claim no sanding I'm sure there is a raft of must do's to claim that. It won't just give it a wash first