"Bossweld" TIG welders - any reviews/experience

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mdf

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#289915 8-Oct-2021 16:55

Anyone have any first hand experience of Bossweld welders? I'm looking at the TS-200 AC/DC TIG machine (or possibly at a stretch the 200X).

I've been trying to learn to weld off and on for years and have finally gotten to the point where I'm ready to buy. I've settled on AC/DC TIG - I do a bit of work with aluminum (not welding yet but one day) so am aiming to buy once. But this is very much hobby level and cannot even come close to justifying a Lincoln or Miller.

The Bossweld ticks all the boxes I am looking for (AC/DC, HF and lift start, foot pedal compatible). Duty cycle is at the low end, but I'm hoping will be fine for my intended use. As a big plus, it is also a brand stocked by Bunnings and my local has an okay range of accessories for when I inevitably break or run out of something. The Bossweld website seems good and I've read the manual which seems excellent. But checking other's experience before I buy.

I have had a look at a wide range of mostly indistinguishable other brands but they are quite a bit more expensive - most seem to run about $2K before adding foot pedals etc. but do have some better features (e.g. longer torch cables, higher duty cycles). e.g. this Mitech. Though I have seen some on sale, e.g. Ezitig or Protig, see previous comments re "indistinguishable" and "no idea what I'm looking at".

Annoyingly, a whole lot of welding supply websites have prices for everything at "POA" or "enquire".

Ge0rge

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#2792369 9-Oct-2021 18:54

I haven't used or heard of that particular brand before, however a quick google doesn't seem to have people slagging it.

You've picked up a couple of important things right away - the leads are rather short and it has a low duty cycle. Neither of these things are necessarily show-stoppers, depending on your intended use.

Often the leads on these cheaper machines are about the thickness of a shoelace and will heat up quite quickly. It's easy enough to upgrade the earth lead (go to an electrical store and get cable from them to make your own, don't buy it from a welding outfit unless you have a trade discount). The longer torch leads can be a bit more expensive. One thing to check is if the welder has a standard torch connection (ie Euro-style etc), not something proprietary. If it's standard, you've got a huge range to choose from and not locked to one manufacturer.

I didn't have a thorough look through both manuals, but if the main difference between the 200 and 200x is just the thumb control on the torch, then I'd be considering the cheaper of the two if you are going with a foot pedal - torch controls become redundant. Foot pedals are the business - right up until you're upside down doing a positional run and squeezing it between your thighs to drive the machine 😀.

Don't underestimate the cost of all the accessories to go with it to - bench grinder with a wheel that you only use for tungsten is critical. Any ferrous material on your tungsten and your welds on Ali will turn to rubbish. Same as your wire brush - get a green one with stainless bristles that you only use for Ali and hide it away when not in use - especially if you have children who just use the first tool they see when in the shed. Don't ask.
A glass cup for your torch can make a huge difference when learning - they are a little more fragile than the standard ceramics though. Definitely make sure the torch has a diffuser in it too, they make a big difference to the shielding. Speaking of gas - the Bunnings swap a bottle program is pretty good value for a hobby user. Once you've paid the the deposit you can swap it for any of the different gasses they have so mint if you want to try different mixes or materials. Also, don't skimp on your pre- and post-flow, or flow rate during the process - while tempting sometimes to save a little money by using a little less gas, your weld quality will suffer and you'll end up spending on materials instead.

Not sure if you already have a helmet, however spend a little bit more here too - I have found that anything from the 3M Speed Glass range is brilliant. You probably don't need the 9000i, but it's definitely the Cadillac of helmets!

Sorry, I have strayed away a bit from your original question! I would think that if it's got a decent warranty, then crack on - if you outgrow it, you'll always get good money selling it second hand when you decide you want a Kemppi...

SepticSceptic

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#2792477 9-Oct-2021 22:49

Plus 1ed even though I have no idea about welding but impressed with the effort and load of information in the reply.

mdf

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#2793332 11-Oct-2021 17:00

Thanks @Ge0rge. If I can trouble you with a follow up...

I've now been looking at welding helmets, though not entirely sure what I'm looking for. Advice/reviews online seem to suggest going for the biggest possible viewing area and fast switching time.

Something generic like this offers an approx 100mm x 100mm viewing area + "1/30,000" (seconds???) switching time for less than $200: https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/10338-toolshed-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-100x98mm-screen

A 3m Speedglass option (low tier) is roughly half the size (44 x 93 mm) and a switching time of 0.1 ms (which by my maths is 1/10,000 seconds) for $359.

Am I missing some important features? Or just general quality made in Europe premiums?

Ge0rge

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#2793503 11-Oct-2021 22:17

There's definitely a name/European premium applied to the 3M gear - although purely in my personal opinion I find it worth it. I've got a Speedglas 100 that I use for tacking/quick jobs. It's comfortable, lightweight and sits nicely on my dome. If you don't care about the paint-job, it's a few dollars less for the plain black version that the one you linked to. You're right in saying it's their entry-level model, but I still find it to be a mint helmet.

I note there is a weight difference between the Tool Shed at 600g vs Speedglas at 465g but without actually wearing them and trying it out it would be hard to say if it would make a difference. The helmet I wear for more heavy duty welding is 535g but the head strap system means you really don't notice it at all.

Another thing to consider is how low an amperage the helmet will switch at - the Tool Shed claims 5A for tig, 3M say 10A for tig for the 100 series. If you think you might be needing to stitch tinfoil or Ali cans back together, then you'll want the lowest you can get. Personally, I think 10A will be ok, and I'm a little dubious about the claim of 1/30,000 switching time - even the most expensive helmets from name brands are only claiming down to 0.1ms.

There is certainly merit to having a larger viewing window however consider in the bad old days (and you can still get them if you're a sadist), there was the lift front welding helmet - looks like something Ned Kelly would have worn - and many a successful rod was burnt wearing one of those, all the while looking through something the size of a business card. I find I want to be able to see left and right a lot more than up and down. Generally with Tig you'll try and sort your life/work out so that you are welding across your body away from your dominant side. You want to be able to see your weld pool and tungsten / arc as well as where you are going - not so much down into your lap or up over the far side of the bench!

I personally find I don't use grind mode on the 100 very often at all - By the time I've mucked around with the button, found I haven't pressed it correctly when it auto-darkens on the first spark, pressed it again... I just whip the helmet off, put some goggles on, and crack on.

One thing to note with the Speedglass 100 (and I couldn't see anything mentioned on the Tool Shed helmet, so assuming the same) is that it doesn't have auto-on. I spend a fair bit of time using a 9100 FX which turns itself on the instant it sees weld. Put it on, strike an arc and we're away. I'll do the same with the 100, forget to hit the "on" button and boom - can't see anything for a minute or two. You'd think I'd learn too... Possibly not a problem if you are only using the one helmet, but if it's not auto-on you definitely need to get into the habit of hitting the button - most are auto off so if you pop away for lunch...

mdf

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#2793505 11-Oct-2021 22:22

Legend, thanks! Really appreciate your time for such a comprehensive reply.