Electric Setup for Portable Saw and Router Table

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MikeAqua

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#303412 8-Feb-2023 16:22

I'm building a new mobile work-bench that will house a compact table saw and a router (each up to 2400W). I would operate only one of these at a time but with dust extraction, which is another 1,100W. So ... 3,500W in total which I think is 15A.

Ideally the set-up would be:

One heavy duty cable that connects the workbench to a dedicated high capacity socket
Three outlets within the workbench (A = single, B = single, C = double)
A switch which allows either outlet A or B to have power available (but never both)
Outlet C always has power available
An e-stop system that stops power to outlet A and outlet B (it wouldn't matter if it stopped outlet C as well).

I'd appreciate some advice on if/how this is achievable/legal.

We have a single-phase supply and I have room on the switchboard for another circuit. Helpfully the switch board is in the garage where I'll use the work bench, so cable runs would be short.

Obviously, I'd get the electrical work done by a qualified electrician. I just need to know how it should be designed.

Mike

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#3033584 8-Feb-2023 16:46

I got a magnetic switch off aliexpress that I put onto my mobile workbench. It drops the power when the padle is pressed or if the AC drops out for whatever reason. Have it upstream of a powerstrip so may not be enough for your needs.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32897019883.html

Hole spacing is about what a flushbox is, but the plate area is slightly smaller. It has spade connectors on the back so easy enough to crimp onto flex.

Richard rich.ms

mattwnz

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#3033587 8-Feb-2023 16:52

This isn't the solution, but you may find this video useful and to give you some ideas for powering a workbench. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wIDqOB1XJc&ab_channel=ProperDIY

MikeAqua

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#3033590 8-Feb-2023 17:11

richms:

I got a magnetic switch off aliexpress that I put onto my mobile workbench. It drops the power when the padle is pressed or if the AC drops out for whatever reason. Have it upstream of a powerstrip so may not be enough for your needs.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32897019883.html

Hole spacing is about what a flushbox is, but the plate area is slightly smaller. It has spade connectors on the back so easy enough to crimp onto flex.

Perfect. I'm only drawing 10A at a time on the items I want to e-stop and it's rated to 16A

At that price I could have two, both downstream of an on-off-on switch.

I don't think I really need to e-stop my dust extraction.

Mike

neb

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#3033626 8-Feb-2023 18:30

richms:
I got a magnetic switch off aliexpress that I put onto my mobile workbench. It drops the power when the padle is pressed or if the AC drops out for whatever reason. Have it upstream of a powerstrip so may not be enough for your needs.

A lot of modern power tools like pretty much any table saw you can get now already have those built in. When you compare Father Neb's half-ton Dyco with absolutely no safety features whatsoever with any cheap Ozito/Ryobi I'd still take the latter because it's far less dangerous even if the overall metal content is about the same as the fence on the Dyco.

MikeAqua

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#3033816 9-Feb-2023 09:01

neb: A lot of modern power tools like pretty much any table saw you can get now already have those built in. When you compare Father Neb's half-ton Dyco with absolutely no safety features whatsoever with any cheap Ozito/Ryobi I'd still take the latter because it's far less dangerous even if the overall metal content is about the same as the fence on the Dyco.

My cheap table saw has an estop built into it, but it's not that easy to reach, so I want one somewhere more prominent. The router table will have a handheld corded router mounted to it, which has has no e-stop at all.

Mike

mdooher

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#3033824 9-Feb-2023 09:27

If you are worried about current draw just put a 10A circuit breaker in the bench and feed everything from that.

Also use a current sensing relay and timer in one outlet so you can have the dust extraction activate when the machinery starts (get the relay from aliexpress the price if a PDL one will make your eyes water.)

The whole bench is classed as an appliance so you don't need (but might want) and electrician

Matthew

larknz

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#3033827 9-Feb-2023 09:41

What are you doing for dust collection. I have a Karcher vacuum connected to a cyclone unit. The Karcher vacuum has an option for auto start when you start your power tool.

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MikeAqua

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#3033889 9-Feb-2023 11:24

larknz:

What are you doing for dust collection. I have a Karcher vacuum connected to a cyclone unit. The Karcher vacuum has an option for auto start when you start your power tool.

I have a similar Karcher vac (PD 6) but that integrated outlet can only handle 1600W. It's great for the orbital sander but wouldn't handle the table saw (1800W) or router (2400W). It also lacks the volume to ove the sawdust generated by the router.

However for the saw/router, I have a Tooline dust extractor. I have this running via a cyclonic separator I made, which is OK, but not great. At some stage, I'll make/buy a better one and add a filter cartridge to the outlet.

I also need to improve the dust capture on the saw. I've made zero clearance inserts, which made a reasonable difference however, the actual containment around the saw motor and blade is really poor. I'll address that when I build the saw into a workbench.

Mike

MikeAqua

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#3033896 9-Feb-2023 11:43

mdooher:

If you are worried about current draw just put a 10A circuit breaker in the bench and feed everything from that.

Also use a current sensing relay and timer in one outlet so you can have the dust extraction activate when the machinery starts (get the relay from aliexpress the price if a PDL one will make your eyes water.)

The whole bench is classed as an appliance so you don't need (but might want) and electrician

The saw/router will only draw 8A/10A. But with the dust extractor, it will be 14A/16A.

I'll look at the current sensing relay, thanks. I'm still puzzling that out. It would be useful to have delayed off.

Mike

richms

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#3033898 9-Feb-2023 11:46

Have you considered just running 2 10A extensions to the table?

I was considering the idea of 2 smart sockets with one turning the other on when it saw current draw but never got far enough into setting it up before life got in the way and filled my garage with other peoples stuff.

Richard rich.ms

neb

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#3033967 9-Feb-2023 13:26

richms:
I was considering the idea of 2 smart sockets with one turning the other on when it saw current draw but never got far enough into setting it up before life got in the way and filled my garage with other peoples stuff.

Is that the stack of expensive OLED TVs and laptops that you were storing for a mate? Is he still selling those cheap, cash only, no questions asked?

richms

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#3033970 9-Feb-2023 13:28

neb:
richms:

I was considering the idea of 2 smart sockets with one turning the other on when it saw current draw but never got far enough into setting it up before life got in the way and filled my garage with other peoples stuff.

Is that the stack of expensive OLED TVs and laptops that you were storing for a mate? Is he still selling those cheap, cash only?

No, its old furniture and housewares that they will sort out eventually when back in NZ type thing.

Richard rich.ms

neb

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#3034047 9-Feb-2023 14:13

MikeAqua:
I have a similar Karcher vac (PD 6) but that integrated outlet can only handle 1600W.

Yeah, that's the problem with the vac + power outlet combos, the vac already claims to draw 1000W or so, so you can't run most of the stuff that needs serious dust extraction off it.

MikeAqua

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#3034050 9-Feb-2023 14:29

richms:

Have you considered just running 2 10A extensions to the table?

I was considering the idea of 2 smart sockets with one turning the other on when it saw current draw but never got far enough into setting it up before life got in the way and filled my garage with other peoples stuff.

I have thought about that. The idea is to minimise cords etc and I definitely wouldn't want two cords running in different directions. My thinking is one decent supply dropping down off the roof.

I also don't know whether I could run two cords to outlets that are close to each other - because they would be on the same circuit. I understand that a double outlet is usually limited to 15A and I'm a tad over that.

Mike

Tick

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#3038194 17-Feb-2023 15:19

Came across your thread and thought I'd clarify some things.

The circuit breaker is rated to protect the wire.

This is probably the most important thing to keep in mind. It doesn't matter if you overdraw on amperage anywhere along the installed wired circuit. Assuming the mcb is working, it will trip and keep the wire from burning. I believe the crux of your concerns involve fear of overdrawing. You can, but it's safe because when you do overdraw, it will trip and you just get no power. Assuming you have 2.5mm2 cable to the outlet, that can safely deliver 25A, and will likely have a 20A mcb attached to it, so the cable is kept well within it's limits, so you can't blow anything between the outlet and the switch board.

As long as your cables and outlets are rated higher than the draw, you're fine. Feel free to daisy chain 100x 10A sockets on your workbench, it doesn't matter, you're limited to 20A at the mcb. You know you are unable to draw more than 15A because you won't run 3 tools at the same time. I've wired up 20x 10A outlets in a single room which is fed by a 20A cable. Theoretically, someone could try pop 20 heaters going at the same time, but it won't do anything because the breaker trips after the 3rd heater gets turned on. There is no need to worry about the various permutations of what can run when and with what. There is no reason to use any kind of complex changeover switches or paying any mind to what you are using in any combination. If you accidentally somehow manage to turn on a third tool whilst running another 2, it will just flip the mcb before any heat builds up in the cabling.

For practicality and convenience, you would obviously want to avoid tripping the mcb.You will only draw 15A max (you won't) with the extractor while pushing jarrah through the tablesaw faster than you should be. The other consideration is spike motor load. As long as you don't turn everything on at the exact same time, you won't trip the breaker.

As for ideal set up, I would have the sparky change the existing 15A outlet to a 20A outlet, then plug in a 2mm 2core+earth appliance cord to the bench, and daisychain as many 10A outlets as you want using the same wire. I would use a single outlet each for the tablesaw and extractor but double (even better; quad) outlets to either end of the bench.

Because your bench plugs into the 15/20A socket, it's considered an appliance and will not need an electrician to wire up. You might consider them doing it if you're not comfortable doing it yourself of course.

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