Flua Song C light installation

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eranda

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#304107 4-Apr-2023 22:33

Hi guys,

I decided to install Flua Song C light on our new build and bought from an NZ supplier.

However, now kind of confused about how to install the dimmer for the light, even the electrician is not sure.

See below for the wiring diagram.

Does anyone have clue about what dimmer/driver is required? Currently, the dimmer switches we have selected elsewhere in the house are PDL push-button dimmers.

Thanks heap.

t92300

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#3059478 5-Apr-2023 19:55

Looks like they are suggesting a 0-10V dimmer and driver.

Cant tell you much more as that is about as much as I know my self. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/0-10_V_lighting_control, this is a bit more helpful https://www.agcled.com/blog/what-everybody-ought-to-know-about-0-10v-dimming.html

I don't see why you couldn't use a standard dimmer and driver.

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larknz

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#3059479 5-Apr-2023 20:07

I would go back to the lighting supplier and ask what they recommend.

larknz

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#3059480 5-Apr-2023 20:18

It doesn't look like PDL make anything suitable.

pipe60

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#3059675 6-Apr-2023 09:18

Lighting shop should have a driver that takes a 0 to 10v input for dimming control, then find a 0 to 10v dimer you like for the control such as https://www.lightsup.co.nz/product/3561-wall-0-10v-dimmer-24vdc- this one runs off 24v so may not suit. more common on industrial or commercial

richms

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#3059687 6-Apr-2023 10:20

Thank goodness they are telling you to use 0-10v and not the clusterF that is using a triac dimmer into a driver to both power it and signal your intention of how bright it should be.

Generally 0-10 comes from proper building automation systems that are older, new ones use digital dali control, so there is not a great deal of nice looking wall controls to do it and only that other than gharish looking ones that will not match a normal switch.

Many drivers support putting a 10k potentiometer across the 0-10v terminals and will dim from that as well, so check that first, you could then just run 2 wires to a potentiometer on the wall plate beside a switch. I did that for my old fluro ballasts that I had for aquarium lighting to tone them down when I wanted to watch TV in the same room.

Richard rich.ms

eranda

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#3059732 6-Apr-2023 12:18

Thanks everyone for the replies.

This is what lighting importer is saying:

For the SONG C, this light is 1-10V dimming. If you would like this light to be triac dim, you should ask electrician to find another triac dimmable driver which is the constant voltage 30V, also electrician needs to find a place to install this driver, as this is separated from the main light.

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gregmcc

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#3059761 6-Apr-2023 14:49

0-10v dimming control is very common on commercial lighting, Dali and dynalite are 2 systems that come to mind.

Anyway one solution (depending on the light fitting) is use a 10k or 5k pot, places like JA Russell do a standard unit that fits in light switch mechs, it simply works as a voltage divider, you may have to source the specific dimmer module that generates the 0-10v for this particular light fitting.

mattenz

195 posts

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#3060796 10-Apr-2023 07:22

Some EC fans take 0-10v for speed control, might be worth looking there as well.

eranda

29 posts

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#3062078 12-Apr-2023 22:55

richms:

Thank goodness they are telling you to use 0-10v and not the clusterF that is using a triac dimmer into a driver to both power it and signal your intention of how bright it should be.

Generally 0-10 comes from proper building automation systems that are older, new ones use digital dali control, so there is not a great deal of nice looking wall controls to do it and only that other than gharish looking ones that will not match a normal switch.

Many drivers support putting a 10k potentiometer across the 0-10v terminals and will dim from that as well, so check that first, you could then just run 2 wires to a potentiometer on the wall plate beside a switch. I did that for my old fluro ballasts that I had for aquarium lighting to tone them down when I wanted to watch TV in the same room.

Yeah, kind of the same purpose, this light is going into the tv room, so it must be dimmable.

When you mean potentiometer, do you think this one would work? https://thelightingoutlet.co.nz/products/led-dimming-pot-0-1-10v-for-standard-clipsal-hpm-plate-havit-lighting-hv9628

However, then we need to have a separate switch to turn on and off the light and this one for the dimming.

And other question is, can we use a signal converter like the below standalone without any Dali controllers? Specification of this has the option (see below) to use a push-dim switch and convert that signal to 0-10v. But again not sure what push-dim switch to use, will the pdl push button dimmer mechs work with this?

http://www.ltech-led.com/html/en/Control/Signal_Converter/Signal_Converter/LT-84A.html

Nath5

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#3067992 25-Apr-2023 20:54

You may have already got it sorted but the dimmer you mentioned should work, Voltex also do one if your sparky has an account with them https://www.voltexelectrical.co.nz/p-11210-1-10v-dimmer-suitable-for-voltex-other-brands-of-led-high-bay-lights.aspx

I imagine that there are other options out there as well but at first glance it looks like whatever you use will always be one to turn the light on and off and a separate dimmer

eranda

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#3148406 17-Oct-2023 13:07

Ok, for anyone interested, finally I installed the below DC dimmer and it is compatible with Pdl Iconic plates. So basically now I have normal switch to turn on and off the light and this rotary switch for dimming purposes.

https://www.kiwielectronics.co.nz/products/dc-dimmer/

See what it actually looks like in real life.

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networkn

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#3148433 17-Oct-2023 14:49

That is awesome.