House flashing needs a patch

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alisam

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#306336 14-Jul-2023 07:56

My house was built in 1990 and I have owned it from new.

I know the flashing has been patched in various places, quite a number of years ago and the flashing painted.

I assume (but don't know) that the flashing is 'lead', and I don't know what the material of the patches is.

One of the patches has deteriorated and I think I can do it myself, but need to know of a suitable product which can then be painted.

The photos show a patch on the flashing. The flashing protects the garage.

The side of the house is stucco with a brown wooden batten.

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rscole86

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#3103838 14-Jul-2023 08:08

I know nothing in this area, other than we had epar applied to our flashing and painted over. No more leaking into a bedroom, so it obviously did the trick.

timmmay

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#3103839 14-Jul-2023 08:11

Suggest you get a good builder in to replace the flashings that have deteriorated. Aluminum can't rust, but make sure it's thicker aluminum otherwise it is lightweight and buckles easily. There might be a better material for your house.

I say good builder because the builder I found on builders crack to replace my flashings said "sealing and silicone is the painters job", and wouldn't budge on that. Fortunately a good builder I had doing something else fixed his work up for me. Make sure any builder you use has good knowledge of the building code. For example, I've been told that silicone is required under the flashing to prevent water being blown up or water vapor rising, and consider either getting a building inspector in to check it or telling the builder you get all work inspected.

rscole86

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#3103840 14-Jul-2023 08:27

To add to timmmay, we used a plumber.

Brunzy

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#3103841 14-Jul-2023 08:45

There are a number of Butynol based products. They normally come in a roll 4 to 6 inches wide .
For such a small area that would do fine.
You just cut it to size and put it on, at this time of the year, you may have to use some heat to get it to bond properly .
I use a small plastic wallpaper roller, and as a double protection you can paint over it to seal the edges.

Bung

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#3103847 14-Jul-2023 08:48

timmmay:
Suggest you get a good builder in to replace the flashings that have deteriorated. Aluminum can't rust, but make sure it's thicker aluminum otherwise it is lightweight and buckles easily. There might be a better material for your house.

Neighbour's roof is aluminium. It lasts better than steel but he recently had to replace some alloy flashings that had corroded.

"However, the aluminum alloy commonly used in flashings tends to pit and oxidize and pit in salty or polluted air. Unpainted aluminum flashing will also corrode in contact with pressure-treated wood, concrete, mortar, or other alkaline masonry materials."

If you've used an aluminium foil tray under your barbecue you may have noticed how it gets holes in it if left too long.

Bung

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#3103850 14-Jul-2023 09:00

alisam:
One of the patches has deteriorated and I think I can do it myself, but need to know of a suitable product which can then be painted.

I'm currently replacing some cracked Fibrolite siding. The Sika Multiseal tape that I put over the cracks years ago is still in good condition.

timmmay

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#3103853 14-Jul-2023 09:13

Bung:
timmmay:

Suggest you get a good builder in to replace the flashings that have deteriorated. Aluminum can't rust, but make sure it's thicker aluminum otherwise it is lightweight and buckles easily. There might be a better material for your house.

Neighbour's roof is aluminium. It lasts better than steel but he recently had to replace some alloy flashings that had corroded.

"However, the aluminum alloy commonly used in flashings tends to pit and oxidize and pit in salty or polluted air. Unpainted aluminum flashing will also corrode in contact with pressure-treated wood, concrete, mortar, or other alkaline masonry materials."

If you've used an aluminium foil tray under your barbecue you may have noticed how it gets holes in it if left too long.

True. We painted our aluminum flashings.

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tweake

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#3103910 14-Jul-2023 10:19

need builder or roofer. this is a job that crosses trades.

replacing flashing is a big job because the flashing goes up under the wall. in this case it means pulling the tiles off, pull that weird timber strip off, pull the nails of the cladding out and pull the flashing out downward. replace then resemble.

another option is to tape over it. some tapes will eat the flashing.

depending on if the vertical side is torn or not, might slip a bit of flashing under the top side of the repair and over the top of the bottom side. trouble is that tends to leave a small hole where it meets the vertical.

neb

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#3104163 14-Jul-2023 18:36

Brunzy: There are a number of Butynol based products. They normally come in a roll 4 to 6 inches wide .
For such a small area that would do fine.
You just cut it to size and put it on, at this time of the year, you may have to use some heat to get it to bond properly .
I use a small plastic wallpaper roller, and as a double protection you can paint over it to seal the edges.

I would use something like that as well. The photos from the OP indicate that it's failed/torn at the edges of the tiles, which could point to thermal expansion of the tiles underneath causing tearing of the metal, while butynol will just flex.

Goosey

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#3104315 15-Jul-2023 12:49

Given your cladding is stucco, is it worth working out what your budget will be for a new roof or completely new flashing.

33 year old roof now… you are now in the zone for a roof replacement in the next decade…

Bung

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#3104365 15-Jul-2023 13:09

Why would you think the roof would need replacing within 10 years?

Goosey

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#3104372 15-Jul-2023 13:28

My bad, had another look at the photo… it’s brick tiles right?

In that case, replace the whole flashing or y’all be back there repairing again…

Bung

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#3104380 15-Jul-2023 13:52

Something odd is going on. The tiles don't look 100% under what could be a tear in the flashing. It could be that the very thin lead was stuck down and a crack cause a split. I still think a repair can be done but it may need the timber trim to be removed.is the tiled area visible from inside the attic?

alisam

829 posts

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#3104532 15-Jul-2023 22:29

The roof is Monier and installed by Monier.

It has been maintained for many years by Edwards and Hardy. They have a 3 stage (something like: clean, remove moss and then seal) treatment and we must have cycled through it twice (or more).

I don't think I need a new roof at present.

I don't know now who patched the flashing.

I have looked at ALL the flashing and this looks to be the only area which has been patched (and there are several) and has now failed.

If the house is 1990 era, what is the flashing made of? Lead? I have no idea.

All the patches were made at the same time. Yes, it could have been poor quality flashing when the house was built. It is something that I have no knowledge of.

The house is Monier brick on the ground level and stucco on the second level with (brown painted) battens to represent a 'mock' Tudor house.

My biggest disappointment is that new 'ties' were introduced in NZ not long after we built the house, and then we could have had brick on the second level.

I am going to contact Edwards and Hardy to see if they can make a repair.

mattwnz

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#3104538 16-Jul-2023 00:01

It could be a lead flashing as they were used in the late 80's on our galvanized corrugate roof. These days they use a smooth edge type product for metal rooves that isn't as easy to bend and shape into the gaps.

My grandma had a monier tile roof and when a tile slipped out and broke in a storm, the plumber / roofer couldnt source another. So I think they made a tile shaped patch out of lead to fill in the gap. It does look like you can still buy lead on rolls for this purpose