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tdgeek

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#310855 27-Nov-2023 10:06
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I have the Kiwi paling fence issue, rails coming away from the top posts. Probably a combo of not great quality fence timber and painting it all black

 

I have pondered about removing the nails, but seems a lot of hassle. Some top rails are detached from the post (which may or may not have twisted) and some are still attached to the posts, but are detaching

 

My plan now is to remove the paling(s) for G Clamp access, hacksaw the nails (whether the rail is detached or still attached but seperating) and G clamp it back, then drill a hole, and attach a bolt and screw. 

 

So, will a metal drill go throught the wood ok? I imagine it wont clear the wood bits very well so may need to drill a bit ease the drill out to clear the drillbit then continue on, using a metal drill bit as it will hit nails. Some nails are close-ish so I don't want to use a wood drill bit and "try" to avoid the nails,  in case I ruin bit after bit. There are a few to fix

 

Cheers

 

 

 

 


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eracode
Smpl Mnmlst
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  #3164342 27-Nov-2023 10:19
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In general, steel twist bits drill timber and metal just fine. Advantage is that if you happen to hit a nail, the bit will cope with it without getting damaged.

 

However in this case it would be good to know the diameter and length of the holes you wish to drill. If these are large-ish dimensions, a twist bit may not be long enough. Also you do not want to run the risk of hitting a nail in the timber with a spade bit or augur bit (both are ‘timber only’) - as you say, this will wreck the bit.





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RunningMan
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  #3164343 27-Nov-2023 10:24
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It'll be fine. What will damage the drill bit will be suddenly hitting a nail while the bit is turning - it will tend to snatch at the sudden hardness change and possibly chip the cutting edge. It's different from the controlled pressure from drilling metal normally.


Bung
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  #3164344 27-Nov-2023 10:25
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Dark paint or stain will cause any timber to twist or crack.


I have a few timber twist drills from Dad's days as a carpenter but I don't know if many would bother today. An auger bit would probably survive contact with a nail, maybe not a spade bit. Just back out to clear the spiral flutes if a standard metal drill clogs. Use a decent size 10/12mm bolt not so much for strength but longevity. 



Edit the timber twist drills I referred to were single flute as on left not spur point or dowel drills.




tdgeek

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  #3164372 27-Nov-2023 11:21
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Thanks for the info, appreciated

 

The length of the rail and post is 80mm

 

Re using a 1/2 bolt, yes makes sense for durability, but I have one query on that. If the rail has small cracks in it, wouldn't a wider bolt cause a loss of integrity on the rail?

 

What I was planning to do was using a thinner bolt as there isn't much pressure (apart from one rail across 2 posts that has flexed somewhat)  and a round head that has a small nut shape under the round bolt head to bite into the rail, helping when I tighten the nut

 

and using a decent washer at the nut end. Does that make sense? 


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  #3164398 27-Nov-2023 12:12
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Steel bits are just fine for timber.  The only time you really need a wood bit is for bigger holes, or fine carpentry.

 

I'm on the same situation as you.  Black painted (not by me) fence with a few boats popping.

 

I'll address ours with tec-screws (you can buy them with black heads).  The advantage being they drill their own hole, or can be screwed through/into  the old nail holes.

 

I'll pull the warped board off, denail it, turn it around so the bow is curved in the opposite direction relative to the fence, and screw it on.

 

 





Mike


johno1234
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  #3164409 27-Nov-2023 12:36
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Palings to rails with bolts seems overkill and expensive. How about just pull the boards, knock and pull the nails out and screw the boards back on through the nail holes with self drilling deck screws?

 

[edit] D'oh! MikeAqua beat me to it

 

 


tdgeek

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  #3164412 27-Nov-2023 12:43
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Palings to rails.  My issue is rails to posts




Bung
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  #3164414 27-Nov-2023 12:45
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"Some top rails are detached from the post (which may or may not have twisted) and some are still attached to the posts, but are detaching"


mdf

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  #3164428 27-Nov-2023 13:19
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General agreement with what others have said, but given this is Geekzone, allow me to present an alternate solution to your problem rather than answering your specific question...

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/zenith-14-10-x-75mm-galvanised-type-17-bugle-timber-batten-screws-100-pack_p2410116

 

While they won't have the clamping pressure of a bolt + washer + washer + nut combo, these are super strong and (with a decent driver) won't need any kind of pilot hole. You said there was one place where the rail was twisted (?), so you might need the BWWN combo there to pull everything back into shape, but for the others I would be well satisfied with the quick and dirty option.


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