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mb82

220 posts

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#312184 24-Mar-2024 18:40
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I want to replace my oven switch because although it looks to be built twice as good as the modern junk it looks old. 

 

I see pdl have a 32amp one that looks like a light switch and a bigger 45amp one. Aesthetically I prefer the look of the 32amp one. 

 

My extractor fan is also wired into the oven switch, with everything turned onto full (4 elements, oven, extractor fan and light, which would never happen in normal use) it pulls 33.7 amps at the fuse board. 

 

Is it ok/safe/legal to use the 32amp switch? 

 

 


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timmmay
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  #3210350 24-Mar-2024 20:13
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The correct answer is likely to ask an electrician. I doubt it's a good idea to use an under-rated switch.

 

I had a new induction stove put in 5+ years ago, it draws more than the wire / fuse can legally carry. My electrician said "if the fuse blows we can rewire". It never has. How often do you use all the elements on full and have all the oven heating elements on?


 
 
 
 

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tweake
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  #3210359 24-Mar-2024 20:38
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i will add that because your not using the switch they tend to last and not burn the contacts. which means they can handle a fair bit of overcurrent. 


davidgo2
44 posts

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  #3210361 24-Mar-2024 20:45
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(I am not a sparky but) It would not be a good idea to use this.  You don't want the switch arcing and causing a fire hazard.  I would be guided by the MCB/RCBO on the circuit board for the rating of the switch I use if I were using a single switch.

 

Assuming its a standard wall switch, why not change it to a 2 or 4 gang switch and wire up the oven and extractor fan/light separately?   My guess is it is unlikely that the oven itself is pulling 33 amps.




mb82

220 posts

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  #3210413 24-Mar-2024 21:12
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davidgo2:

 

(I am not a sparky but) It would not be a good idea to use this.  You don't want the switch arcing and causing a fire hazard.  I would be guided by the MCB/RCBO on the circuit board for the rating of the switch I use if I were using a single switch.

 

Assuming its a standard wall switch, why not change it to a 2 or 4 gang switch and wire up the oven and extractor fan/light separately?   My guess is it is unlikely that the oven itself is pulling 33 amps.

 

 

You mean the ceramic fuse with a 32amp piece of wire in it🙃


Goosey
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  #3210440 25-Mar-2024 06:41
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I’m not a sparky, but I don’t think it’s legit having the extractor fan on the same circuit as the oven….

 

Call a sparky….theres no value in getting answers from people here who ain’t able to inspect the physical installation…

 

Photos will help……. I’m guessing this is an older installation where you can see the wall plug?

 

 


BadCo
107 posts

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  #3211943 28-Mar-2024 19:29
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The isolator should be sized so it isn't less then the protective device (MCB).

If you have rewireable fuses, get your switchbiard upgraded or atleast change the ceramic fuses to quicksets

https://hpm.co.nz/product/20a-mini-circuit-breaker-for-power-and-hot-water-circuits/

gregmcc
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  #3212004 29-Mar-2024 08:39
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Goosey:

 

I’m not a sparky, but I don’t think it’s legit having the extractor fan on the same circuit as the oven….

 

Call a sparky….theres no value in getting answers from people here who ain’t able to inspect the physical installation…

 

Photos will help……. I’m guessing this is an older installation where you can see the wall plug?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

there is an exception that allows this, but there is a rigid set of circumstances for the allowance......but again your best bet is an electrician. 

 


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