Impact drill - advice required

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geekIT

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#315241 25-Jun-2024 12:28

I need a tool that'll remove a tight spark plug from a chainsaw and it seems an impact drill might be best for the job. Anyone able to suggest a tool that's not too expensive? I'd prefer a standard wired model rather than cordless.

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#3252996 25-Jun-2024 12:33

I'd start with a Spark plug socket and a long bar, (use a steel tube over the handle to give you more leverage)

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-spark-plug-socket-set---4-piece/590231.html

richms

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#3253000 25-Jun-2024 12:44

I would never use an impact for that. Also I have not seen a corded impact for sale in a very very long time as the market has all gone cordless.

If its an aluminum head that it is in, then there is a good chance it was put in without anti-seize and its going to be a hell of a time to get out.

Richard rich.ms

mdf

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#3253003 25-Jun-2024 12:54

As above, I would not use a power tool for this and would start with the suggestions above.

You _might_ want the original hand tool impact driver, like this: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/trojan-impact-screwdriver-set_p0131351. You whack these with a mallet and it transfers the impact force into a twisting force. You'd need a suitable socket.

djtOtago

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#3253006 25-Jun-2024 12:58

You are looking for an Impact driver, not an Impact drill. Impact drills are what you use for drilling into concrete. 😊

As already mentioned, haven’t seen an electric corded one for years.

I would just take it to the local mower / chainsaw service shop and ask them to remove it. Will be cheaper than buying your own Impact driver then trying to find an impact rated Spark plug socket.

Edit:

As you want it to drive sockets an Impact Wrench is probably the best name for the tool you are after.

If you have an air compressor you may find a cheap air powered one.

Bung

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#3253031 25-Jun-2024 13:57

djtOtago: I would just take it to the local mower / chainsaw service shop and ask them to remove it. Will be cheaper than buying your own Impact driver then trying to find an impact rated Spark plug socket.

You shouldn't need an impact driver and even then an ordinary socket would work. It's not as if you are unbolting all the legs of a transmission tower.

The service shop will be able to repair the threads in the head in the event that the seized plug comes out with the threads attached. The shop should know all the ways of trying to avoid that happening.

Are you using the original spanner? They often have a very short handle to try and limit how tight people do the plugs. It might just take a longer handle.

geekIT

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#3253329 26-Jun-2024 08:39

I've already tried a 300mm long socket extension with cross bar - no joy.

And I have a hammer-able socket wrench but I wouldn't risk using it on a chainsaw cylinder head.

I know for a fact that the local (well, 40 minutes distant) Stihl shop uses an impact tool to release the clutch retaining nut, so I'd bet that they employ the same technique on tight spark plugs.

However, from what you guys are saying, it appears that these tools are mostly air driven rather than electric-wired so maybe I'm chasing something that doesn't exist.

Thanks for your comments.

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nztim

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#3253330 26-Jun-2024 08:52

There are proper torque wrenches for this job

or just get it services at your local chainsaw service shop

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sir1963

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#3253335 26-Jun-2024 09:29

geekIT:

I've already tried a 300mm long socket extension with cross bar - no joy.

And I have a hammer-able socket wrench but I wouldn't risk using it on a chainsaw cylinder head.

I know for a fact that the local (well, 40 minutes distant) Stihl shop uses an impact tool to release the clutch retaining nut, so I'd bet that they employ the same technique on tight spark plugs.

However, from what you guys are saying, it appears that these tools are mostly air driven rather than electric-wired so maybe I'm chasing something that doesn't exist.

Thanks for your comments.

Ask a builder mate, they use these sorts of tools (battery powered) for screws on decking etc.

Borrow for one off jobs, don't buy.

If you were in Palmy I would loan you my Ryobi cordless one.

https://www.ryobi.co.nz/products/impact-drivers/18v-one-hptm-brushless-compact-impact-driver-40ah-kit

Bung

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#3253339 26-Jun-2024 09:43

geekIT:
I've already tried a 300mm long socket extension with cross bar - no joy.

And I have a hammer-able socket wrench but I wouldn't risk using it on a chainsaw cylinder head.

I know for a fact that the local (well, 40 minutes distant) Stihl shop uses an impact tool to release the clutch retaining nut, so I'd bet that they employ the same technique on tight spark plugs.

However, from what you guys are saying, it appears that these tools are mostly air driven rather than electric-wired so maybe I'm chasing something that doesn't exist.

Thanks for your comments.

Does the chainsaw start? It might be easier with the head hot. What counts is the length of the cross bar, have you tried extending that? I'd also try tightening the plug just to see if it moves. It might if the sealing washer hasn't been crushed completely flat. Any movement at all will help get penetrative oil into the threads.

An impact tool is often used on things like clutches to get them loose/tight using the inertia of the parts to hold them rather than having to lock the engine from turning.

There are battery tools that will do most jobs like wheel nuts that are done up much tighter than a spark plug.

johno1234

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#3253416 26-Jun-2024 11:04

sir1963:

geekIT:

I've already tried a 300mm long socket extension with cross bar - no joy.

And I have a hammer-able socket wrench but I wouldn't risk using it on a chainsaw cylinder head.

I know for a fact that the local (well, 40 minutes distant) Stihl shop uses an impact tool to release the clutch retaining nut, so I'd bet that they employ the same technique on tight spark plugs.

However, from what you guys are saying, it appears that these tools are mostly air driven rather than electric-wired so maybe I'm chasing something that doesn't exist.

Thanks for your comments.

Ask a builder mate, they use these sorts of tools (battery powered) for screws on decking etc.

Borrow for one off jobs, don't buy.

If you were in Palmy I would loan you my Ryobi cordless one.

https://www.ryobi.co.nz/products/impact-drivers/18v-one-hptm-brushless-compact-impact-driver-40ah-kit

<Edit to add URL to product I mentioned>

I have something similar - one of my most favourite tools. Fantastic for driving in long screws.

But for the OP, he needs an impact wrench rather than an impact driver. Similar device but beefier and designed for things you put a spanner on, whereas the impact driver is for things you put a screwdriver on.

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ryobi-18v-one-impact-wrench-4-0ah-r18iwz14-kit_p0361121?store=9493&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxShSWui2QL6TYAfciTOu_aH2DoxPtmLaej7tUqcfTo5z4wsiJFMb3hoCGhIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

The impact wrench will have a square drive post end on it so you can put sockets on it rather than bits. Very good for undoing wheel nuts.

sir1963

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#3253418 26-Jun-2024 11:07

johno1234:

I have something similar - one of my most favourite tools. Fantastic for driving in long screws.

But for the OP, he needs an impact wrench rather than an impact driver. Similar device but beefier and designed for things you put a spanner on, whereas the impact driver is for things you put a screwdriver on.

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ryobi-18v-one-impact-wrench-4-0ah-r18iwz14-kit_p0361121?store=9493&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxShSWui2QL6TYAfciTOu_aH2DoxPtmLaej7tUqcfTo5z4wsiJFMb3hoCGhIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

The impact wrench will have a square drive post end on it so you can put sockets on it rather than bits. Very good for undoing wheel nuts.

I have stuck sockets on my one for rusted nuts, sure not as good as a compressed air "Rattle gun", but they are surprisingly good.

sir1963

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#3253421 26-Jun-2024 11:18

Bung: Does the chainsaw start? It might be easier with the head hot. What counts is the length of the cross bar, have you tried extending that? I'd also try tightening the plug just to see if it moves. It might if the sealing washer hasn't been crushed completely flat. Any movement at all will help get penetrative oil into the threads. An impact tool is often used on things like clutches to get them loose/tight using the inertia of the parts to hold them rather than having to lock the engine from turning. There are battery tools that will do most jobs like wheel nuts that are done up much tighter than a spark plug.

240Nm of torque fro a Ryobi driver

@ 0.3m (length of bar), force applied at 90° you would need a little over 80Kg applied to the end of the bar to equal 240Nm.

wellygary

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#3253435 26-Jun-2024 11:57

sir1963:

240Nm of torque fro a Ryobi driver

@ 0.3m (length of bar), force applied at 90° you would need a little over 80Kg applied to the end of the bar to equal 240Nm.

Slap an 0.3 steel tube on the end and you get 480Nm... :)

geekIT

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#3253448 26-Jun-2024 12:26

Thanks for the further comments. Yes, the saw starts - I just wanted to be prepared to remove the plug if I ever decide to check it. And I'm a retired builder, I have several impact drills.

The linked Ryobi could be useful I guess, but the price is more than I want to spend, especially since the pictured unit would also need batteries. I have a couple of Einhell cordless drills and batteries, so I'm good for general cordless drill requirements,

sir1963 and wellygary's comments on the bar torque are interesting. The socket extension bar is around 300mm long but its cross bar is only about 200mm. Maybe if I lashed a 1800mm long waratah stake to the crossbar?

'Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.' Voltaire

'A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.' Edward Abbey

sir1963

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#3253450 26-Jun-2024 12:32

geekIT:

Thanks for the further comments. Yes, the saw starts - I just wanted to be prepared to remove the plug if I ever decide to check it. And I'm a retired builder, I have several impact drills.

The linked Ryobi could be useful I guess, but the price is more than I want to spend, especially since the pictured unit would also need batteries. I have a couple of Einhell cordless drills and batteries, so I'm good for general cordless drill requirements,

sir1963 and wellygary's comments on the bar torque are interesting. The socket extension bar is around 300mm long but its cross bar is only about 200mm. Maybe if I lashed a 1800mm long waratah stake to the crossbar?

Ask a builder, they will have one, probably a DeWalt or some other more industrial brand than Ryobi.

"Worth a crack Nigel" as the ad goes.

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