Looking for Wood penetrating primer before acrylic top coating

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Gordy7

gordy7
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#315578 27-Jul-2024 14:59

I have a bad vertical weather board to concrete interface that needs serious attention.

I have given the area a light water blast.

I am thinking of an oil based primer or even a metal primer.

Ultimately I expect to then apply an undercoat that will take an acrylic paint top coat.

Any recommendations would be most apreciated?

TIA

Gordy

My first ever AM radio network connection was with a 1MHz AM crystal(OA91) radio receiver.

edge

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#3265197 27-Jul-2024 17:55

I would use a wood hardener on it first - there are a range of both epoxy and non-epoxy options (just search for timber wood hardener) designed to stabilise rotting timber. I used one a number of years ago on fascia that was starting to go soft and "feathery" and it worked a treat - can't remember specifically what it was however, sorry. These can then be just painted over with undercoat/topcoat as required.

On another matter you can see why the building code specifies 150mm clearance between bottom of cladding and "protected" ground (e.g. concrete) :-) It's amazing what we used to get away with!!

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mdf

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#3265267 27-Jul-2024 19:29

Gulp. You probably need to get rid of anything loose or flaky first. I would then use a timber preservative. I usually use Resene Timberlock (since I have a can) but you might be better off using Metalex which you can get in a rattle can. It's nasty stuff so PPE recommended. Manufacturer recommendations after that for priming.

jrdobbs

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#3265276 27-Jul-2024 20:08

Maybe a better longterm solution is replacement, might be cheaper in the end.

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eracode

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#3265278 27-Jul-2024 20:18

jrdobbs:

Maybe a better longterm solution is replacement, might be cheaper in the end.

Yes - looks like a fairly small area - isn’t going to cost megabucks. I’d replace it and do it properly.

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neb

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#3265535 28-Jul-2024 13:37

edge: I would use a wood hardener on it first - there are a range of both epoxy and non-epoxy options (just search for timber wood hardener) designed to stabilise rotting timber.

Just be aware that a lot of the non-epoxy/solvent-based ones are watered-down PVA and so won't work well in a situation where the wood will get damp again afterwards. So in this situation you'd need to use the less pleasant-to-work-with ones.

FineWine

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#3265548 28-Jul-2024 14:11

I have just finished sealing a 1.3m tall chainsaw carved triple-twist statue with Norski Epoxy Timber Sealer 1L Amber from mitre10. Have had this statue for about 8 years and did not realise that the carver had not properly sealed the bottom. Even though I had it in our garden sitting on H4 blocks it still started to rot. Previously I had, on carvers recommendation, coated it in a Sikkens product. But this time, after removing all the rotten areas we triple coated the base in Norski, screwed a shaped piece of 5ply to the base, then 3 coats of decking oil stain all over top to bottom, then one more coat of Norski.

It will out last the 2000 house now 😀

Whilst the difficult we can do immediately, the impossible takes a bit longer. However, miracles you will have to wait for.

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neb

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#3265551 28-Jul-2024 14:24

+1 for Norski, which unlike a lot of stuff advertised as such is made in NZ for NZ conditions. Sikkens works fine in Europe but can't stand up to our levels of UV.

Gordy7

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#3287267 28-Sep-2024 11:34

@jrdobbs Maybe a better longterm solution is replacement, might be cheaper in the end.

Have considered replacing the weather boards. Might be a case like "Right said Fred". Dismatling the house to remove the piano. In this case: removing weather boards, cutting away concrete, fitting drainage below the bottom of the weatherboards 😃

So, in the end I opted for a quick low cost process... something that would maybe outlast me 😃

I wanted to have a coating and filler that would make rain run away from the weather boards.

Blasted oil free compressed air along the bottom of the weather boards to remove a lot of dust, bits of timber and leaves.

Applied 2 generous coats of TimberLock.

Applied an oil based primer-undercoat.

Bogged (fibre glass) gaps.

Applied further oil based undercoat.

Applied a top coat.

So, I have ended up with a tidy finish:

Gordy

My first ever AM radio network connection was with a 1MHz AM crystal(OA91) radio receiver.

eracode

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#3287277 28-Sep-2024 12:16

@Gordy7 Great job! 👍

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.