Contact adhesive. I tend to use ados F2. You can get it in a bigger tin or a tube: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ados-f2-contact-adhesive-75ml_p0135275

Instructions are a little counterintuitive (to me at least). You let it dry / tack up before sticking. 

mdf:

 

Contact adhesive. I tend to use ados F2. You can get it in a bigger tin or a tube: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ados-f2-contact-adhesive-75ml_p0135275

 

 

 

Instructions are a little counterintuitive (to me at least). You let it dry / tack up before sticking. 

 

Perfect, thanks.

And what do you use to clean up any dribbles etc, in case we get small amounts squeezing out when I press them together.

It almost certainly won't if you do it right but Ados Solvent N is the proper thinner. All power to you if you want to do it properly but it's probably cheaper just to mask the edges first and clean up with a razor. 

mdf:

 

Contact adhesive. I tend to use ados F2. You can get it in a bigger tin or a tube: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ados-f2-contact-adhesive-75ml_p0135275

 

Instructions are a little counterintuitive (to me at least). You let it dry / tack up before sticking. 

 

This ^. Bit hard to see in your photo exactly what the situation is - but you’ll find it a lot easier if you are able to remove the whole piece of laminate and apply a thin layer of adhesive to each piece, let dry a bit etc as above. Much easier than trying to get adhesive down between the two surfaces. Hold in place until dry under light pressure with tape that’s easy to remove eg masking tape.

I reckon a light bead of silicon along the top edge (under the sink edge) would also help once the re glued piece is dried.

(Will help stop the water dribbles off the front edge of the sink lip go back down into that piece (which is probally what has caused the piece to come away).

mdf: Contact adhesive. I tend to use ados F2. You can get it in a bigger tin or a tube: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ados-f2-contact-adhesive-75ml_p0135275

 

Instructions are a little counterintuitive (to me at least). You let it dry / tack up before sticking. 

One thing to note if you've never worked with it before is that it's not called contact adhesive for nothing.  The minute it makes contact you can't un-contact it any more, in technical terms it has zero open time, so you probably don't want to use it if you can't get the two surfaces perfectly positioned the first time.

To get a good finish you need a very thin layer of adhesive.  Otherwise you may end up with lumps under the skin. F2 comes in a spray can as well which will allow a thinner coating.

You will probably want to mask the surrounding area to stop any over spray.

When the surface is touch dry that is the time to place the two surfaces together. If they get too dry you can "reactivate" the adhesive by spraying one surface again or puttng on a layer of F2 solvent.

As already mentioned is called contact adhesive for a good reason. You'll only get one chance to get it right. I'd fix/clamp some guides to the edges of the cabinet at suitable places to allow you to get the skin in the correct position before placing the two surfaces together.

Edit: Looking at your photo again the bottom edge of the bowl unit may provide the ideal guide. You just need to be sure you have it centrally located side to side.

Technofreak:

 

To get a good finish you need a very thin layer of adhesive.  Otherwise you may end up with lumps under the skin. F2 comes in a spray can which will allow a thinner coating.

 

Good advice in this post but above is potentially misleading - perhaps should say “F2 is available in a spray can, as an option”.

F2 is available in tubes, tins and spray cans.

eracode:

 

Technofreak:

 

To get a good finish you need a very thin layer of adhesive.  Otherwise you may end up with lumps under the skin. F2 comes in a spray can which will allow a thinner coating.

 

 

Good advice in this post but above is potentially misleading - perhaps should say “F2 is available in a spray can, as an option”.

 

F2 is available in tubes, tins and spray cans.

 

 

 

Thank you. I wasn't intending to create the impression it was only available in a spay can as it it had been already mentioned it came in a tube or tin

I have edited my post to remove any ambiguity. 

I've found this advice useful, as I also have cabinetry in my kitchen where the skin is delaminating.  At the risk of a thread-hijack - what repair advice is there for situations where the skin has, in places, cracked and broken off altogether?  For instance, can you get replacement "skin" somewhere?  Or are we talking about a whole different approach (i.e. stripping all the skin off all the cabinets and painting or something like that?)

Lizard1977:

 

I've found this advice useful, as I also have cabinetry in my kitchen where the skin is delaminating.  At the risk of a thread-hijack - what repair advice is there for situations where the skin has, in places, cracked and broken off altogether?  For instance, can you get replacement "skin" somewhere?  Or are we talking about a whole different approach (i.e. stripping all the skin off all the cabinets and painting or something like that?)

 

See if the panel can come off and take it to a place that does this stuff and have a new one made that looks the same is what a friend ended up doing. They wouldnt/couldnt re-laminate an existing panel that was still in good condition.

For some others they tried painting them but the glue residue made it too much work to sand smooth. Got a "good enough for the spare bathroom" result,