Swapping out downlights

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blackjack17

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#317889 24-Nov-2024 10:45

I have some downlights fail and I am swapping them out.

The old ones look like this, pretty standard

While the new ones connections look like this.

Other than the fact the live and neutral have flicked around it looks like it wants the looped wires split out? rather than twisted and joined together and their doesn't appear to be any way of screwing the wires in place.

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richms

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#3312419 24-Nov-2024 12:39

Those terminals need the wires totally straight when you put them in, so dont untwist them, cut them and restrip them. Then just push them in. The lever on top is to release them to pull out.

Also the secondary insulation is supposed to extend into the terminal block, not be outside it like the old picture has it looking like it is.

Richard rich.ms

blackjack17

1705 posts

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#3312422 24-Nov-2024 13:00

richms:

Those terminals need the wires totally straight when you put them in, so dont untwist them, cut them and restrip them. Then just push them in. The lever on top is to release them to pull out.

Also the secondary insulation is supposed to extend into the terminal block, not be outside it like the old picture has it looking like it is.

Thank you.

It was an electrician that did the first one :)

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neb

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#3312478 24-Nov-2024 20:44

richms: Those terminals need the wires totally straight when you put them in, so dont untwist them, cut them and restrip them. Then just push them in. The lever on top is to release them to pull out.

Also the secondary insulation is supposed to extend into the terminal block, not be outside it like the old picture has it looking like it is.

Are you allowed to crimp bootlace ferrules onto mains cables? I've found those useful for Wago-style connectors, the plastic collar goes fully into the socket at which point the metal portion is completely inserted and there's no exposed metal visible.

SomeoneSomewhere

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#3312492 24-Nov-2024 21:51

I have had issues with bootlace ferrules coming off the wires when used in spring terminals rather than screw terminals. There's not enough crush force to actually restrain the core, and the biting action of the spring grips doesn't bite through the ferrule into the actual copper.

There should be absolutely no need for bootlace terminals on what looks like 1mm^2 solid core wire.

k1w1k1d

1520 posts

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#3312500 24-Nov-2024 22:53

Wago type spring terminals are designed to grip/bite directly onto the copper wire. They won't properly grip the solid bootlace ferrules.

Bootlace ferrules are designed for screw connections to prevent the copper wire strands from fraying out.

neb

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#3312501 24-Nov-2024 23:09

My question was more is it code-compliant to do in NZ. I've always crimped wires going into Wago connectors, or at least the more compact Chinese Wago clones used for small-signal work, because 26-28AWG wire doesn't hold in them, because the crimped ferrule gives a wide flat surface for the clamps to contact rather than the edge of a rounded wire, and as mentioned the crimped ferrule is a great guide for full insertion and blocking of access to any bare conductor. I did an informal tug test at one point and the wire broke before the clamped ferrule let go, and the Internet says it's fine (just one example).

SomeoneSomewhere

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#3312508 25-Nov-2024 02:09

I suspect that's more of an issue with 26AWG being outside the 24-10AWG range for standard Wago 221s. Chinesium clones are probably even worse, lever-nuts are something that you do not want knockoffs of.

Wagos have a deep enough recess and open wide such that you shouldn't be having issues with stray strands.