Freezer power plug

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fastbike

212 posts

Master Geek

#320046 30-Jun-2025 16:04

I've just replaced a 25 year old F&P upright freezer with a Beko model.

The power plug on the old freezer had a molded on plug with the cord coming in via the side so we could get the appliance closer to the wall (around 4cm).

However, the new freezer has a plug where the cord comes out perpendicular to the wall so the appliance is now about 7.5cm from the wall and is sticking out of the space it sits in.

Question: - can I cut off the plug and retro fit an after market side entry one. Or do I need to purchase a complete cord with plug and fit that i.e. is there any protection device fitted into the OEM plug/cord ?

Otautahi Christchurch

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1519 posts

Uber Geek

#3388362 30-Jun-2025 16:08

My suggestion would be to get a short extension lead with a flat side entry plug and plug the freezer into that.

I have done this with our upright freezer in the laundry.

frankv

5680 posts

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#3388365 30-Jun-2025 16:32

NZ plugs don't have fuses. You can replace the plug yourself... no electrician required. However, what does the freezer say about how close it can be to the wall?

fastbike

212 posts

Master Geek

#3388367 30-Jun-2025 16:43

frankv:

NZ plugs don't have fuses. You can replace the plug yourself... no electrician required. However, what does the freezer say about how close it can be to the wall?

It has two plastic spacers to keep it 4cm for air circulation/cooling. I've pushed it in without plugging it in and the 4cm gap is perfect for the space. I might ask a mate who runs a recycling business to source me cord/plug combo.

The reason I asked was my F&P auto-washer and dishdrawer service manuals both say to only replace with an OEM part if they are damaged, so I thought there must be a technical reason rather than just a "profit margin".

Otautahi Christchurch

SomeoneSomewhere

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#3388415 30-Jun-2025 16:49

Nah, a plug is a plug is a plug. It's not got an RCD inside it unless it looks like this:

Replacing the plug with a rewireable one is much lower risk than trying to open the electrics box in the freezer and maybe crimp new connectors onto a new cable.

tweake

2391 posts

Uber Geek

#3388420 30-Jun-2025 17:28

as a home owner you can replace the plug. however afaik if a service person has to work on it, they are required to change it back to a fully molded style plug. so best choice of action is to go get a replacement lead that has the suitable style plug on it (if 2nd hand check the condition of the plug) or simply use an extension lead.

btw i don't know if that rule still exists these days, it was a weird rule to start with.

SomeoneSomewhere

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#3388421 30-Jun-2025 17:29

I don't think that's accurate, but if you want to get it tagged to 3760 (which they have to do after servicing it), they have to open the plug up to check the wiring is correct if it's not either molded or transparent.

richms

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#3388422 30-Jun-2025 17:31

Or just get a power strip with a side entry plug and then put the freezer on that.

Richard rich.ms

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MadEngineer

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#3388424 30-Jun-2025 17:38

^ I wouldn't recommend that with a freezer. Powerstrips come with a protection device of unknown quality and you don't want that popping on a freezer. Use a short extension lead:

k1w1k1d:

My suggestion would be to get a short extension lead with a flat side entry plug and plug the freezer into that.

I have done this with our upright freezer in the laundry.

You're not on Atlantis anymore, Duncan Idaho.

tweake

2391 posts

Uber Geek

#3388425 30-Jun-2025 17:43

SomeoneSomewhere:

I don't think that's accurate, but if you want to get it tagged to 3760 (which they have to do after servicing it), they have to open the plug up to check the wiring is correct if it's not either molded or transparent.

the rule was along the lines of the appliance had to have the original oem style of plug, which these days is a molded plug. i havn't kept up with it, they may have changed as its kinda stupid imho.

fastbike

212 posts

Master Geek

#3388426 30-Jun-2025 17:52

MadEngineer:

^ I wouldn't recommend that with a freezer. Powerstrips come with a protection device of unknown quality and you don't want that popping on a freezer. Use a short extension lead:

My thought exactly. I would not want to pop away for 2 or 3 days and come back to a defrosting mess. I will take a look at how the OEM is terminated in the electrical box.

Otautahi Christchurch

k1w1k1d

1519 posts

Uber Geek

#3388431 30-Jun-2025 18:21

Interested why you don't take my easy cheap option that has been working for several years for us?

Black+Decker | Piggy Back Extension Lead 2m Black | Mitre10

hsvhel

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#3388433 30-Jun-2025 18:42

k1w1k1d:

My suggestion would be to get a short extension lead with a flat side entry plug and plug the freezer into that.

I have done this with our upright freezer in the laundry.

This, all the this^^^

Although, i will admit to leaving mine off during a fault find for a day due to my own error of not turning it back on........but hooman

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bfginger

1267 posts

Uber Geek

#3388440 30-Jun-2025 20:34

I think flathead plugs should be mandatory on refrigerators and dishwashers because when their back is inevitably slammed against a protruding plug those can short, melt and burn out.

fastbike

212 posts

Master Geek

#3388451 30-Jun-2025 22:30

bfginger:

I think flathead plugs should be mandatory on refrigerators and dishwashers because when their back is inevitably slammed against a protruding plug those can short, melt and burn out.

LoL, it came from Turkey. Good luck enforcing that.

In the meantime I went through my box of spares and found a F&P cable/side entry plug, ex dishdrawer, so will fit that tomorrow.

That will learn me for buying foreign muck :)

Otautahi Christchurch

fastbike

212 posts

Master Geek

#3388475 1-Jul-2025 08:23

Next issue was when I turned it on I could hear the fan and compressor start but the display panel on the door showed "0" and none of the buttons did anything apart from beeping when pressed.

Long story short, I was convinced it must have some wireless comms from the door mounted display panel back to the body mounted controller so was thinking it had somehow go unsynchronised.

I called the helpline which runs gentlemen's hours, so thought I'd take a look myself. The comms are carried by a small 6 core cable that runs through the hinge with a molex style disconnector so the hinge can be swapped to the other side. One of the crimped on sockets had not been seated fully into the plastic carrier, so two minutes work with a small tipped screw driver got it apart, seated properly and reassembled. All working properly now. Must have been made on a Friday ?

Otautahi Christchurch

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