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pukster

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#69558 11-Oct-2010 10:43
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whats the difference between all the home ventilations ,i have done some research ,and found moisture master to be leading in all the feilds as the key thing i found was ,components were made in germany as hrv & dvs are just brought in bulk from china
also hrv put there filter on after the fan which would cause all the dust to settle on the fan ,which would throw a bearing or make fan noisey after 8 months ,and their heater is alot more efficent does anyone else have anything to add ,the wife wants one but im not sure what to get


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mentalinc
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  #390375 11-Oct-2010 10:45
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Neither of them have a caps lock button.




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paulspain
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  #390376 11-Oct-2010 10:47
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I have an HRV at home which is in the range of 5-6 years old now and have had no issues with it. Couldn't comment on the differences between each brand.




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Handle9
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  #390377 11-Oct-2010 10:51
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They are all much of a muchness. Pick the one that is cheapest and/or has an interface that you like. Personally I like the smartvent touchscreen but alot of it is personal choice.

They all work much the same.



jaymz
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  #390378 11-Oct-2010 10:54
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pukster: WHATS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ALL THE HOME VENTILATIONS ,I HAVE DONE SOME RESEARCH ,AND FOUND MOISTURE MASTER TO BE LEADING IN ALL THE FEILDS AS THE KEY THING I FOUND WAS ,COMPONENTS WERE MADE IN GERMANY AS HRV & DVS ARE JUST BROUGHT IN BULK FROM CHINA
ALSO HRV PUT THERE FILTER ON AFTER THE FAN WHICH WOULD CAUSE ALL THE DUST TO SETTLE ON THE FAN ,WHICH WOULD THROW A BEARING OR MAKE FAN NOISEY AFTER 8 MONTHS ,AND THEIR HEATER IS ALOT MORE EFFICENT DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE ANYTHING TO ADD ,THE WIFE WANTS ONE BUT IM NOT SURE WHAT TO GET

There is a case on Target this week about home ventilation systems that might be of use to you.

Personally, I would rather a heat transfer kit instead.  Our roof is concrete tile so in winter it stays cold in the roof, which blows their who "take the warm dry air from your roof and warm your home with it" statement out of the water.  Others I have talked to say that it creates drafts in the house which can make it feel colder.

I would rather have a dry heat source (heatpump in the lounge) and then a heat transfer kit to move that dry warm air to the rest of the rooms in the house.  They are much cheaper to install.

Just my 2 cents anyway!

Handle9
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  #390382 11-Oct-2010 11:02
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jaymz:
pukster: WHATS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ALL THE HOME VENTILATIONS ,I HAVE DONE SOME RESEARCH ,AND FOUND MOISTURE MASTER TO BE LEADING IN ALL THE FEILDS AS THE KEY THING I FOUND WAS ,COMPONENTS WERE MADE IN GERMANY AS HRV & DVS ARE JUST BROUGHT IN BULK FROM CHINA
ALSO HRV PUT THERE FILTER ON AFTER THE FAN WHICH WOULD CAUSE ALL THE DUST TO SETTLE ON THE FAN ,WHICH WOULD THROW A BEARING OR MAKE FAN NOISEY AFTER 8 MONTHS ,AND THEIR HEATER IS ALOT MORE EFFICENT DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE ANYTHING TO ADD ,THE WIFE WANTS ONE BUT IM NOT SURE WHAT TO GET

There is a case on Target this week about home ventilation systems that might be of use to you.

Personally, I would rather a heat transfer kit instead.  Our roof is concrete tile so in winter it stays cold in the roof, which blows their who "take the warm dry air from your roof and warm your home with it" statement out of the water.  Others I have talked to say that it creates drafts in the house which can make it feel colder.

I would rather have a dry heat source (heatpump in the lounge) and then a heat transfer kit to move that dry warm air to the rest of the rooms in the house.  They are much cheaper to install.

Just my 2 cents anyway!


Depends what you want it for. A heat transfer kit is just that - it moves warm air from one area to another. A positive pressure ventilation system (which is what HRV/DVS etc) are) essentially creates air movement to reduce condensation. They are particularly effective if you have an older house with wooden joinery which allows air to "leak" easily. 

If you've got a condensation problem a heat transfer kit probably won't help much. Saying that the most effective thing you can do is reduce your input of moisture by

1. Having an effective extract fans in your bathroom with a run on timer.
2. Putiing in a vented rangehood 
3. Venting your dryer outside
4. Use dry heating sources (NOT unflued gas heaters!) 
5. Properly insulate your house, particularly in the ceiling

These are all relatively cheap to do, other than insulation, and  address the core issues introducing moisture into the space. 

pukster

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  #390384 11-Oct-2010 11:04
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i thought the same thing but ,it seems moisture master can take vents from outside and put it through there heat exchange unit not inline heater as they have one of them aswell and put that into rooms
and they have the cheapest heat exchange systems aswell it was only like 1400 bucks for 3 bedroom or something like that and they the only company to do it ,but im just wondering if i only put heat exchange
in i wont be able to get the free heat from the roof

freitasm
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  #390399 11-Oct-2010 11:21
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This subject has been discussed here every year. Please read the following:

2007: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=48&topicid=14044
2008: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=48&topicid=18372
2009: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=48&topicid=29785
2010: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=48&topicid=63467

A simple search in our pages brings up other discussions.

Please search for old discussions because there are pages and pages of advice, wrong information, correct information, owners' explanation.





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jaymz
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  #390405 11-Oct-2010 11:41
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Handle9:
Depends what you want it for. A heat transfer kit is just that - it moves warm air from one area to another. A positive pressure ventilation system (which is what HRV/DVS etc) are) essentially creates air movement to reduce condensation. They are particularly effective if you have an older house with wooden joinery which allows air to "leak" easily. 

If you've got a condensation problem a heat transfer kit probably won't help much. Saying that the most effective thing you can do is reduce your input of moisture by

1. Having an effective extract fans in your bathroom with a run on timer.
2. Putiing in a vented rangehood 
3. Venting your dryer outside
4. Use dry heating sources (NOT unflued gas heaters!) 
5. Properly insulate your house, particularly in the ceiling

These are all relatively cheap to do, other than insulation, and  address the core issues introducing moisture into the space. 


Yup, hence why I said "dry heat source"  As with any moisture problem, applying a fix to address the symptoms is not going to be very effective. you have to address the cause of the moisture and work from there.

robbyp
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  #390542 11-Oct-2010 16:22

The better question, is how effective are they, and do they actually work. 

samo
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#390677 11-Oct-2010 22:12
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Well i heard on one of the posts that HRV is made in bulk in China.. That is not true as I work at the place that makes and tests all HRV Boards,  I even made some of the test gear;-)

just thought I'd let ya know 

robbyp
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  #391081 12-Oct-2010 20:50

These systems were discussed on target tonight. Can't believe what I saw. According to the show, the system was drawing damp air from under the house, up through the wall cavities, and then pumping it back into the living areas, creating even more condensation, and ruining their stuff with mould. They had to get a professional company in to find the problem, as the vent company couldn't find the problem. 


robbyp
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  #391082 12-Oct-2010 20:52

samo: Well i heard on one of the posts that HRV is made in bulk in China.. That is not true as I work at the place that makes and tests all HRV Boards,  I even made some of the test gear;-)


just thought I'd let ya know 


 

So none of the components are made in china? There is nothing wrong with chinese made stuff is there, as most stuff you buy these days is made there.

jaymz
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  #391086 12-Oct-2010 21:15
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robbyp: These systems were discussed on target tonight. Can't believe what I saw. According to the show, the system was drawing damp air from under the house, up through the wall cavities, and then pumping it back into the living areas, creating even more condensation, and ruining their stuff with mould. They had to get a professional company in to find the problem, as the vent company couldn't find the problem. 



Watched the same thing, not 100% true though.

The issue was under the house was very damp, this damp rose up though the outer brick walls into the celing space. A condition called "Rising Damp".

The HRV then pulled this moist air (that was in the celing space) down into the rest of the house.

The HRV did exactly what it said, it circulated the air from the celing through the house.  This is why it is very important when you have dampness issues in your house that you fix the root cause of the damp rather than applying band aid fixes to the symptoms.

This explains Damp a bit more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damp_%28structural%29

Handle9
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  #391087 12-Oct-2010 21:17
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jaymz:
robbyp: These systems were discussed on target tonight. Can't believe what I saw. According to the show, the system was drawing damp air from under the house, up through the wall cavities, and then pumping it back into the living areas, creating even more condensation, and ruining their stuff with mould. They had to get a professional company in to find the problem, as the vent company couldn't find the problem. 



Watched the same thing, not 100% true though.

The issue was under the house was very damp, this damp rose up though the outer brick walls into the celing space. A condition called "Rising Damp".

The HRV then pulled this moist air (that was in the celing space) down into the rest of the house.

The HRV did exactly what it said, it circulated the air from the celing through the house.  This is why it is very important when you have dampness issues in your house that you fix the root cause of the damp rather than applying band aid fixes to the symptoms.

This explains Damp a bit more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damp_%28structural%29


Except that the sales guy promised it would solve all their problems. 

robbyp
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  #391091 12-Oct-2010 21:40

jaymz:
robbyp: These systems were discussed on target tonight. Can't believe what I saw. According to the show, the system was drawing damp air from under the house, up through the wall cavities, and then pumping it back into the living areas, creating even more condensation, and ruining their stuff with mould. They had to get a professional company in to find the problem, as the vent company couldn't find the problem. 



Watched the same thing, not 100% true though.

The issue was under the house was very damp, this damp rose up though the outer brick walls into the celing space. A condition called "Rising Damp".

The HRV then pulled this moist air (that was in the celing space) down into the rest of the house.

The HRV did exactly what it said, it circulated the air from the celing through the house.  This is why it is very important when you have dampness issues in your house that you fix the root cause of the damp rather than applying band aid fixes to the symptoms.

This explains Damp a bit more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damp_%28structural%29



 

That isn't what the explaination  was from the expert. The guy explained that the damp air in the subfloor space, was getting drawn up through the wall cavities by the ventiallation system, into the roofspace, and then was being pumbed back into the house. They were then trying to solve this by installing polythene into the subfloor, and to dig drains around the property as it was low down. The rising damp he talked about, was something different, as the bricks should never be in direct contact with the soil, and that would be a construction fault. There should be DPM between the foundation wall bricks and the soil. It was possibly a combination of both that was causing problems, but it was made worse by the system installed.

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