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just been through a similar exercise last year for 18 year old kids - bought 2012 Hyundai i20 (75k kms) as an ex lease vehicle in the same price bracket as OP.
could not be happier with it....we looked at swifts too as an option and would have been happy with one of them.
Note that the swift & golf are in different size classes.
Suzuki swift is comparable to a VW polo. Golf is the next size up. If those are the only two options, size is likely to be a big factor in the decision.
As other's have said, hand down, the Swift will be cheaper to run. More fuel efficient, smaller cheaper tires, super common (so big range of aftermarket parts for repairs, and used parts from wreckers), and it has a solid reputation for relianlity.
I assume the golf would be a much nicer car to be in. But my perspective may be skewed as the only one I have driven was an expensive and high powered, hot hatch version.
While I don't have specific knowledge of the car, it is a fair bet it will cost a lot more to maintain, VAG vehicles have that reputation. As an example I picked a random 2007 2.0 GT golf on trademe. It noted that the cambelt & waterpump had been done at a cost of $1500 at 99,000km. Swift has a chain driven engine so no cam belt to replace. VW's with dry clutch DSG's have a poor reputation, so would pay to check it is a wet clutch DSG or normal torque converter auto.
In terms of economy:
Swift Sport Auto is rated at 8.6L/100km (91RON according to AA)
Golf is rated at 9.4L/100km (unsure grade)
Golf is more powerfull (110kW), but frankly given the swift sport is only 1100kg empty, the 92kW it makes should be am pal.
Without knowing more, I would say if it has enough interior space, pick the swift sport, hands down. More reliable, cheaper to maintain & more economical. Personally I think it looks pretty nice with the twin exaughts pipes too.
If you were going to get an auto, If viable, I would consider spending more up front, to get a more economical car. If going manual the pickings are slimmer.
The below NZ New 2013 Toyota Prius C with 165,000km is asking $8500. $2,500 over budget, but with a rated fuel consumption of half that of the 2006 swift sport Auto (rated 4.3L/100km of 91RON). Will only take 21,000km (1.5 years of typical NZ running) to pay back the extra capital cost in fuel savings.
Car will be slower, and more boring than the Swift sport, but performance is quite adequate. About 350mm longer than the swift and will have a lot more interior and boot space, so a bit more practical. And of course, with being 7 years younger, will have more modern crash saftey design, and less age related issues.
With 91 RON looking to head north of $3/L soon, Having a car that is affordable to actually fill the tank and go place may well be more attractive to your son than one with twin exhaust pipes...
As a side note, if you look at the japan version of that car (the aqua), make sure it has push button start. The key start versions often lack immobilizers, making them very popular with thieves. No issue on the NZ new "Prius C"
Hammerer:
The 2004-2010 Swift is only 2-star equivalent safety. We have the variant below the Sport with mag wheels and 7 airbags (special for a fleet deal). It has been very reliable (one oil leak) and we’ll keep it until it dies - 230K km so far. Around town it is easy to park and drive but a longer wheelbase would be better if travelling the highways. Sound insulation is not good because it is a light vehicle with cheaper trim. Bad stereo including no aux input.
I’d expect the VW to be quieter, more comfortable and better on the open road but much more expensive to keep running.
A pritty reasonable performance, however the test's get harder each year, so as an example, the prius C which was tested in 2014 got 5 stars on a much harder test, so would be much more desirable from a safety perspective.
The two star score you are refering to with the swift is under the UCSR system. This uses real world data for actual crashes. I am not sure of the reason but many popular car's do quite poorly in this system. (but the 2007 golf gets 4 stars). I am not confident the demographic that busy certain cars are properly normalized in the data.
Confusingly both ANCAP and UCSR use star ratings, but the ratings from each system shouldn't be compared.
1024kb: You're on the right track with VW Golf, but take a look at the TDi model. The 2.0l Turbo-diesel has very different power delivery to the combination super/turbo charged 1.4l GT, putting the emphasis on low-down torque - grunt where you want it. You'll get 1000km from a tank of diesel & they're bone reliable as well as full of safety features.
Scott3:
Swift was 4 star rated when it was ANCAP tested back in 2005. Indicates it was deemed to be reasonably safe when new.
www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/suzuki/swift/c24ecc
We have to read the safety report to clear this up:
ANCAP never tested the Australasian models. They cut and past test results from EuroNCAP which is why the results are generally not that useful for Australasia.
The Australasian 2005 Suzuki Sport was lower spec and missing some safety features. Until 2012 in NZ, it is the only standard model in the range to have side curtain airbags. Many Japanese imports had them but nowhere near all.
So 2 stars for NZ models without side-curtain airbags, i.e. all except Sport; 3/4 stars with i.e. the NZ Sport.
Comparing safety ratings today, 2021 as 2022 comes out next month, even the 4 star rated from 2005 would probably get a 2 star rating today.
1024kb: You're on the right track with VW Golf, but take a look at the TDi model. The 2.0l Turbo-diesel has very different power delivery to the combination super/turbo charged 1.4l GT, putting the emphasis on low-down torque - grunt where you want it. You'll get 1000km from a tank of diesel & they're bone reliable as well as full of safety features.
Super economical diesels really aren't that economical at all in my opinion. I had a 2016 Ford Focus wagon for about a year. Sure it used to only cost me about $70 to fill the tank, and yes I got almost 1000kms from that tank - but once I added on the $72 for the RUC it wasn't really much cheaper to run than a petrol car, remembering that registering a diesel costs nearly double ($95ish for my wife's Hyundai Accent VS $180ish for the diesel Focus). Servicing was also more expensive - a minimum of $500 a throw.
Speaking of Hyundai Accents, my wife's 2013 Accent has been brilliant. We've had it coming up 8 years and apart from tyres and yearly servicing (around $200) it's cost us nothing for repairs/maintenance. Regularly achieves 5-6 litres per 100km around town in the 6 speed manual. Great safety rating with multiple airbags and the cabin is more spacious than an i30 from the same era. They are possibly a bit over your budget, but I haven't checked current prices for them TBH.
I also know a thing or two about VW servicing and parts. I previously had a Golf GTI and currently have a Touareg. Servicing is definitely more expensive than Japanese marques, while part prices are obscene. I recently had to replace an oxygen sensor in the Touareg. It was over $500 to replace it - and I had to wait weeks for it to arrive from Germany. And I have another 3 oxygen sensors that could fail at any time... And if you have a VW with an electric boot lid, pray it never breaks - VW NZ wants $4000 to replace my electric boot lid actuators. At this stage I am happy to flex my arm muscles to open the hatch! Having said all that, I love the Touareg - it leaves my 2016 Ranger for dead and even though it's a twin turbo V8, it uses considerably less diesel than the Ranger did (not working as hard I guess).
insane:
- Turbo blew @ 45,000K or so right after I bought it 2nd hand, $3400 (covered under extended warranty - Oil line was blocked so assume previous owner's fault somehow)
incorrect, oil line blockage is a feature of the car
did i mention mate had a VAG car with sunroof, about a month into ownership the sunroof got stuck in the open position and cost $5000 to repair
There is a saying in the automotive repair industry that says "If you can't afford a new Euro, you can't afford to maintain a used one".
Batman:
insane:
- Turbo blew @ 45,000K or so right after I bought it 2nd hand, $3400 (covered under extended warranty - Oil line was blocked so assume previous owner's fault somehow)
incorrect, oil line blockage is a feature of the car
did i mention mate had a VAG car with sunroof, about a month into ownership the sunroof got stuck in the open position and cost $5000 to repair
Hehe, I'm suspecting they relied too much on the use of 'long life' oil and extended service intervals, car overall was in mint condition. Since out of extended warranty I religiously change the oil myself every 10,000KM or 12 months. Dealer used to charge $290 for an oil change and to inspect air filters and oil the door hinges! Not sure how others think that it costs $500 to service a diesel, that feels extreme and not in line what was I experienced. The major services were more, but still a bit less than that.
You're also not limited to parts from the VW dealer, those do seem to include a boatload of markup which I assume is where dealers make their actual money (bit like the Printer + ink business model). Having said that, I just had to replace some suspension bushings on a Mazda CX-5 with fairly low KMs that IMO should not have warn out yet... Total repair bill felt like I was purchasing a small share in the car garage. You can't win!
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