When is an oil leak not an oil leak?

Forums › Transport (cars, bikes and boats) › When is an oil leak not an oil leak?

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#1206137 30-Dec-2014 16:08

My car was using a lot of oil, needed a new rocker cover gasket, it was leaking just enough that if you hopped out of the car after stopping with a hot engine, you'd get the odd whiff of oil, but not enough that it ever reached the ground or made much of a mess on the engine. Got it replaced, problem solved.

Spark plugs are pretty idiot-proof, just don't over-tighten them, snug then another half turn usually does the job, especially on a low-compression engine. If they're covered in oil then odds are your rings are on the way out.

If it's burning a litre of oil for every 400Km or so, then it's something pretty seriously wrong.

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#1206192 30-Dec-2014 19:34

nzkiwiman:
Getting another car at this stage is not an option, I wish I could (though at the same time, I love my car and it does everything I need it for)

in any ways, time to buy a piggy bank and start saving. sometimes repair after repair will end up costing more than turners' auction and cutting your losses. it's a lose lose. only that one option you lose less.

bu then again i don't nkow how much the repair is going to cost so i'm only speculating

MadEngineer

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#1206213 30-Dec-2014 20:00

nzkiwiman: Getting another car at this stage is not an option, I wish I could (though at the same time, I love my car and it does everything I need it for)

top end inspection & repair: $1000
bottom end inspection: $1000
bottom end repair $2000 and up or new motor if you're smart/the car's worth it.

do the sums (hint, likely to be total sum of all the above). Either stop throwing money at it or buy a new car.

You're not on Atlantis anymore, Duncan Idaho.

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#1206250 30-Dec-2014 21:50

MadEngineer:
nzkiwiman: Getting another car at this stage is not an option, I wish I could (though at the same time, I love my car and it does everything I need it for)

top end inspection & repair: $1000
bottom end inspection: $1000
bottom end repair $2000 and up or new motor if you're smart/the car's worth it.

do the sums (hint, likely to be total sum of all the above). Either stop throwing money at it or buy a new car.

on a 96 honda civic you are dreaming

you could pick up a new (not literally) motor for it and have it installed for under a grand

what motor is in it? SOHC or DOHC? and CC rating

MadEngineer

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#1206251 30-Dec-2014 21:52

^ good to know.

You're not on Atlantis anymore, Duncan Idaho.

RunningMan

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#1206301 31-Dec-2014 08:04

MadEngineer:

top end inspection & repair: $1000
bottom end inspection: $1000
bottom end repair $2000 and up or new motor if you're smart/the car's worth it.

do the sums (hint, likely to be total sum of all the above). Either stop throwing money at it or buy a new car.

Not saying that there isn't some significant failure that means a replacement (2nd hand) engine isn't the ultimate solution, but there's some reasonably simple troubleshooting that can be done for a whole lot less than that (or even by the OP if they felt comfortable giving it a go) first to rule out some simpler (cheaper!) possibilities as the cause.

I'd suggest it's worth spending a little time or money to get a better idea of the cause - if it starts pointing toward a significant internal failure, then reconsider the options and decide if it's worth spending money on to repair.

TLD

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#1206315 31-Dec-2014 09:06

MadEngineer:

top end inspection & repair: $1000
bottom end inspection: $1000
bottom end repair $2000 and up or new motor if you're smart/the car's worth it.

A reconditioned engine for something like a MK1 Cortina 1500cc pre-crossflow, or similar, used to cost UK£60 fitted when I started driving. But I started work as an apprentice at FMC on just £5 before stoppages (ten shillings for tools). A gallon of petrol was UK4s10d ($0.50) and you could buy a house for UK£5000. I'm 65 :-(

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MadEngineer

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#1206343 31-Dec-2014 10:14

Yeah, hence why, "if you're smart", you replace the motor rather than be pushed into ongoing repairs

You're not on Atlantis anymore, Duncan Idaho.

nzkiwiman

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#1206345 31-Dec-2014 10:19

I have $10k saved at the moment; which might be enough for another car but when I purchase something I want it to be decent and last for a long time, not just a cheap "filler"

I'll see what the car is like at the weekend (looking at the things already suggested) and depending on my mechanics holiday schedule and work load may take it in earlier than Feb for a check

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#1206377 31-Dec-2014 10:56

Start saving start looking start researching

For a new car

Meanwhile just top up oil and cross the fingers

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#1206378 31-Dec-2014 10:57

This issue may have an economical fix but I guarantee within a few months you will discover another one,. ... And so it continues until your pockets are empty then the penny will drop

Jase2985

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#1206379 31-Dec-2014 10:58

if it were me this is what i would be doing

1. look round the entire engine for any signs of an oil leak, if you find one take a photo, then wipe it up
2. revove dipstick, clean and reinsert all the way, top up oil to top mark on dipstick do this when cold, record km's, could be helpful to take a photo of the level for reference
3. drive for a couple of weeks/one tank recard km's, then recheck oil level, again clean dipstick first then insert all the way before measuringl, and again do this when cold (ie first thing in the morning) and as above a photo so you can compare

report back with how much oil it used, maybe post the picture and how far you traveled.

then we can give you a better recommendation on what to do. we dont have enough actual information on what is actually going on and how much oil its burning

Bung

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#1206381 31-Dec-2014 11:10

Check the dip stick when you are getting petrol just to be sure there is oil. The level can be anywhere between upper and lower marks. For most cars the level is only accurate when cold. If you fill to the top mark when hot you could be overfull cold. Buy oil on special, like supermarkets SuperCheap and Repco seem to take turns with special offers.

Even if your car "doesn't burn oil" there is always the unusual event like a leaking filter or the guts of the pressure sender leaking to make oil walk away. Cars that get driven around town most of the time can apparently lose a lot if they get hot enough to get rid of all the water in the sump that has masked the usual consumption.

DravidDavid

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#1206392 31-Dec-2014 11:30

nzkiwiman: I have $10k saved at the moment; which might be enough for another car but when I purchase something I want it to be decent and last for a long time, not just a cheap "filler"

I'll see what the car is like at the weekend (looking at the things already suggested) and depending on my mechanics holiday schedule and work load may take it in earlier than Feb for a check

I recently purchased a 1.6L 1997 Toyota Corolla SE 30th anniversary for $1500.00

They are tanks. A bit slow, but it's hard to take them down. You don't need 10K for a decent 'round town runner. :)
It has 170,000 kilometers on the clock. I plan to make it last till 3 or 400 thousand. I know this will be an easy target. Some I know have hit 550,000 to 600,000 kilometers. If you want a little more guts, you can pick up a 2.0L Camry for a similar price. They go forever too. Many people have run them up in to the 600,000 range.

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#1206393 31-Dec-2014 11:35

had a 2.0 camry. leaked oil like crazy, and had no guts. but hey i'm like the one in a million i think

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