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Scott3
3963 posts

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  #2841690 1-Jan-2022 22:37
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ShockProof:

 

I am looking at new cars first. My general opinion of Renault is don't buy, but that is based on ICE cars. It's just a quick judgement based on low sales and big distances to the spare parts warehouses. Also from looking at reliability stats for vehicles, most European brands don't do very well. I would have to do a lot of checking before I could satisfy myself that a Renault Zoe was a good idea.

 

I understand what you are saying about 11 vs 22 kW in real world charging. I need to do a lot more work on electricity tarrifs that suit EVs and the real savings if i want to get the best plan. I guess a Zoe type battery wouldn't charge at 22 kW for 3 hours anyway, and as everyone is pointing out, it wouldn't really start at zero charge.

 

I am still a looking at the new Nissan Leaf and its slower charging rate of 6.6 kW 1-ph.  And being aware that Renault owns a big part of Nissan and votes on their board. Not a perfect world.

 

This is giving me a lot to think about.thanks to everyone who is providing help and advice.

 

 

 

 

In terms of the Zoe, They are in interesting offering. Essentially a economy sub-compact hatchback, that sold extremely well in Europe, largely due to it's low price after subsidies. (sometimes in Europe it was sold with the battery pack, and sometimes it was sold without, but bundled with a pack lease).

 

ZE and ZE40 Zoe's don't include DC charging, but had a clever AC charging system dubbed the Chameleon charger. Every version could charge at up to 22kW, and some up to 43kW. It did this by pulling double duty on some drive train components. Downside was very poor charging efficiency at slow charge rates (i.e. 70% efficient off a wall socket).

 

For a while the ZE40 Zoe with its 41kWh battery was the longest ranged EV in NZ without a six figure price tag.

 

it doesn't have quite the same reputation for reliability as it's alliance partners EV, the nissan leaf. At least one high profile failure in NZ.

 

https://www.odt.co.nz/star-news/star-business/couple-wins-28k-electric-car-payout-after-motorway-scare

 

The latest zoe (ZE50) has just landed in NZ. $64 / $66k RRP before rebate & ORC for 80kW and 100kW versions respectively. 52kWh battery. 22kW max fast AC charging, and DC fast charging available (46kW max).

 

 

 

 

 

In terms of EV shopping in NZ in general, Typically the cars commonly available as used imports from japan (i.e. Nissan leaf) make relieve poor buying as new cars.

 

In short, these cars are much better value as used imports. Take a look on trademe at the 62kWh / 160kW leaf e+

They collect a subsidy when sold in Japan, get used (and deprecate a bit), before sold, shipped to NZ, where they can collect our used (but fresh import) subsidy. Often they have higher trip / spec than the Cars Nissan NZ is trying to sell for $15k+ more. The leaf's are highly reliable (noting known battery degradation), and conversion services to make everything English exist, so buying a used import is an obvious pick for a private buyer.

 

 

 

A 6 month old guide to EV's in NZ is here:

 

https://www.electricheaven.nz/NZ-Electric-Car-Guide-13June2021.pdf

 

ATM the main New EV's to consider are:

 

- MG ZS EV: NZ's new cheapest EV, and a pretty solid offering.

 

- Tesla Model 3: 211kW RWD in Base SR+ spec. Low price for performance offering. Very low depreciation.

 

- Polestar 2: sedan shape liftback: very big batteries for price. Very new offering. 1500kg tow rating.

 

- Mini EV: Shorter range offering, but cute and desirable commuting car for the price. Long waitlist.

 

Hyundai / Kea have good offerings, but current pricing means the above are better value offerings at the moment.

 

 

 

 

 

Don't get to hung up on the liquid cooling battery thing. All EV's (incl my 24kWh leaf with passively air cooled battery) have a liquid cooling system for stuff like the motor, charger etc, so it's not like it is a whole new system. And liquid cooling systems are highly reliable on cars these day's. don't see anybody seeking out air cooled VW's for reliability reason's...

The biggest issue with not having an actively cooled pack is that it get's really hot if you fast charge (big charges) it more than twice in the same day.

 

With the Nissan leaf, The battery chemistry was changed prior to the 2014 model year. It is only really the 2011 - 2013 that are terrible for loss of health. Indeed the 40kWh pack seems to be holding up OK ( median health around 91% on 2017 cars)

https://flipthefleet.org/resources/benchmark-your-leaf-before-buying/

 

 




ShockProof

31 posts

Geek


  #2842247 3-Jan-2022 08:18
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Thanks Scott3, some useful info in there.

 

I have been reading about batttery pack cooling and watching a few technical videos. The general feel is that leaking is a potential issue and manufacturers are finding ways to minimise damage by doing certain things, which I won't go into. But I think we are generally in the lap of the manufacturer when it comes to what they put inside the battery pack. Probably real world experience is a better arbitrator on battery pack life. But some of these vehciles haven't been on the roads long enough to be clear about how long the battery life really is.

 

So we work with what we know, and as you say, avoid early generation Leaf. I would anyway avoid an older car as when it comes to modern cars, my limit is 10 years old. I don't want to carry the ownership risk after this time, finding your car dead on the road somewhere.

 

Fascinating to read about a Renault Zoe having an expensive death in NZ. This is the thing we all want to avoid when buying a car. I researched the hell out of my current ICE car before I spent my money, and after 6 1/2 years, I have spent $250 on one unscheduled repair job . Pretty good in my opinion.

 

Cheers


KiwiME
213 posts

Master Geek


  #2843022 4-Jan-2022 11:44
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My understanding is that 3-phase on-board chargers are primarily offered to suit countries where domestic supplies are normally 3-phase and branch circuits are limited to 16A per phase, essentially in Europe. In any case, carrying around any more capacity in your EV than 11 kW seems to cross the cost/benefit line unless you pull Renault's trick.

 

I measured the on-board charger efficiency on my Kona at 7A (meaning DC entering the battery divided by AC in) and it was only 70% averaged over 10 hours, pretty awful and a good reason to use a higher current for less time. In fact I can DC fast charge only one block away and pay about the same rate for DC energy because it's a subsidised 40¢ a unit and I pay $$ Hawkes Bay rates at home.

 

ShockProof:... leaking is a potential issue and manufacturers are finding ways to minimise damage by doing certain things, which I won't go into. But I think we are generally in the lap of the manufacturer when it comes to what they put inside the battery pack. Probably real world experience is a better arbitrator on battery pack life. But some of these vehicles haven't been on the roads long enough to be clear about how long the battery life really is.

 

Coincidentally, in a Kona owners forum we are discussing the fact that Hyundai suddenly changed the coolant type in 2019 to a "non-conductive" type instead of conventional green, about the same time the root cause of the battery failures was unknown. That in itself it not an issue but replacement every 60,000 km is called out at a cost that by all accounts will reach nearly $1,000. A little surprise waiting for Kona, Niro and Ioniq 5 owners. Early Kona and classic Ioniq owners with green coolant (pic below) just need to bail out a bit quicker in the event of an accident that strikes the battery pack. I'll note that the root cause of battery fires was unrelated to coolant and mostly the fault of LG Energy's manufacturing processes with Hyundai's fast charge rate partly to blame.  The Zoe 40kWh has the same cells apparently.

 

Regarding battery life it seems that the SoH reading found on the Kona/Ioniq/Niro has questionable usefulness, however you can log coulombs while discharging the pack over the broadest SoC you can tolerate and extrapolate to a capacity.  I've done that on my 3-yr old Kona (20,000 km) and I get close to the advertised numbers, 180 Ah and 64 kWh.  Note how linear SoC is with Ah, almost perfect, while the energy line is slightly curved as you'd expect with drooping voltage.

 

 




ShockProof

31 posts

Geek


  #2931058 17-Jun-2022 18:43
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An update on the car charging and power etc. There is now a Tesla 3 at home and an 11 kW Tesla charger. We have the three free hours power plan with Contact. Only had one big charge so far (from ~20% up to 80% I think it was). The Tesla charger can go on at the start of the period by using the time setting they provide, but it can't then have a turn-off time three hours later. We just let it charge through to 80% so it was maybe 2/3 of that 20-80 charge was free and 1/3 paid for.

 

Interesting to hear how reliable brands like Hyundai can have battery problems.


RobDickinson
1524 posts

Uber Geek


  #2931070 17-Jun-2022 18:59
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I think some of the tesla api services (teslafi etc) can switch off charging on schedule. 

 

 

 

3 hours at 11 kw is probably about 50-60% 


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