Push bike to keep up with the kids

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Loismustdye

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# 253240 2-Aug-2019 18:54

Hey all, as per the title I’m after a bike to go riding with the kids, they are getting new 24 inch bikes for their birthday and they are getting a bit sick of waiting for Dad to catch up to them on foot.
I’m after a casual mtb type thing with a hard tail, would be a medium sized bike used mostly on the road, bike paths etc as our kids get used to the bigger bikes. Likely to be used for a few short length rides once the weather fines up for fitness as well (30 minute rides etc). Should add I would rather go new than secondhand.

Had a look at the Trek marlin 4 at torpedo7 which was quite a nice bike, and where I got sized up for a medium. Could also go a bit higher in specs stakes as well but the trek seemed nice for the cash, although I’m a bit cagey on the 3 sprockets on the front.
https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/3YBMMN94M/title/trek-2020-marlin-4-mtb

Also kind of looking at something a bit flasher like one of these options:
https://www.evolutioncycles.co.nz/Product/272543/silverback-spectra-comp
https://www.evolutioncycles.co.nz/Product/272540/silverback-slade-sport-275

Both of which are on clearance, however would need me to drive to their store in Wellington to take a look as I’m palmy based.

Any cycling/bike boffins here that can lend their thoughts?
Ideally would like to keep costs down lower under the $900 mark.

Cheers

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# 2287823 2-Aug-2019 19:10

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I spend 340 for a brand new jamis bike off Evo cycles, we often do 2 hours rides with my seven year old on downhill and flat river trails and round the coast you can get good bikes cheap these days

https://www.evolutioncycles.co.nz/Product/277279/2019-gt-aggressor-sport-275-gunmetal

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# 2287824 2-Aug-2019 19:13

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1. get a 29 inch wheel bike - just think of it this way - tractor wheels roll over things much better than supermarket trolley wheels. but i would also get a 27.5 inch if that's the best option. still better than 24 inch!

2. get one with minimum 9 gears at the back, preferably 10. the more gears at the back means the rest of the bike is built with better engineered and lighter parts. if it has 7 or less gears the bike is not fit for purpose. 8 gears - the rest of the bike may meet the minimum standard (but may not) - 9 is safe.

3. if the front has 3 gears the entire bike is likely built with heavy parts, if it has 2 gears the rest of the bike is likely to be much lighter. (a bit like no 2).

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# 2287860 2-Aug-2019 20:57

the trek: the 7 speed Tourney at the back is a dog. it's going to be the bane of your existence IF you use the bike often enough. I'm guessing the crank up front weighs almost 2kgs alone. but it should still be rideable when the Tourney decides it doesn't want to turn smoothly anymore. then you either accept it doesn't work properly or it gets under your skin. most people are the former.

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# 2287861 2-Aug-2019 21:02

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the silverback sport - the moving bit should stay moving smoothly for many years longer than the trek. but it will be a dog to ride on compared to the comp. but if you have never ridden the comp you won't know and most probably won't care.

the comp - now we're talking. the parts are actually built for a real bicycle, not some pretender that the sport is made of. it will be smooth and stay smooth almost forever without any need to adjust anything (though if they do wear they will need replacing after a few thousand ks, or if you leave it to rust it will rust for sure!). shimano deore is the real deal. NB it will squeak after a while, (almost) all bikes do, so don't get too uptight about it.

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Loismustdye

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# 2287862 2-Aug-2019 21:04

Batman:
1. get a 29 inch wheel bike - just think of it this way - tractor wheels roll over things much better than supermarket trolley wheels. but i would also get a 27.5 inch if that's the best option. still better than 24 inch!

2. get one with minimum 9 gears at the back, preferably 10. the more gears at the back means the rest of the bike is built with better engineered and lighter parts. if it has 7 or less gears the bike is not fit for purpose. 8 gears - the rest of the bike may meet the minimum standard (but may not) - 9 is safe.

3. if the front has 3 gears the entire bike is likely built with heavy parts, if it has 2 gears the rest of the bike is likely to be much lighter. (a bit like no 2).

Holy, thanks for that, there’s a bit more to consider than I thought.
Bigger wheels do make sense when you put it that way,
That trek I linked has 3 on the front so that may need to be passed over.

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# 2287863 2-Aug-2019 21:10

from the bikes you mentioned nothing beats the silverblade comp. it will be fine.

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Loismustdye

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# 2287864 2-Aug-2019 21:14

Batman:
the silverback sport - the moving bit should stay moving smoothly for many years longer than the trek. but it will be a dog to ride on compared to the comp. but if you have never ridden the comp you won't know and most probably won't care.

the comp - now we're talking. the parts are actually built for a real bicycle, not some pretender that the sport is made of. it will be smooth and stay smooth almost forever without any need to adjust anything (though if they do wear they will need replacing after a few thousand ks, or if you leave it to rust it will rust for sure!). shimano deore is the real deal. NB it will squeak after a while, (almost) all bikes do, so don't get too uptight about it.

Thanks for this, pretty much figured I had to get something a little more expensive and this pretty much explains it.
An unbiased opinion from someone whose not trying to sell it to me is exactly what I was after. I Appreciate the input, Looks like I might be doing a trip to Wellington over the weekend now.

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# 2287866 2-Aug-2019 21:15

the deore parts in the comp has the latest tech (not the latest model in case some guy points it out later, and is actually a built of real mountain bike hardtail parts. the other 2 are pretenders.

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# 2287869 2-Aug-2019 21:21

Loismustdye:
Batman:

the silverback sport - the moving bit should stay moving smoothly for many years longer than the trek. but it will be a dog to ride on compared to the comp. but if you have never ridden the comp you won't know and most probably won't care.

the comp - now we're talking. the parts are actually built for a real bicycle, not some pretender that the sport is made of. it will be smooth and stay smooth almost forever without any need to adjust anything (though if they do wear they will need replacing after a few thousand ks, or if you leave it to rust it will rust for sure!). shimano deore is the real deal. NB it will squeak after a while, (almost) all bikes do, so don't get too uptight about it.

Thanks for this, pretty much figured I had to get something a little more expensive and this pretty much explains it.
An unbiased opinion from someone whose not trying to sell it to me is exactly what I was after. I Appreciate the input, Looks like I might be doing a trip to Wellington over the weekend now.

i am not kidding, i have owned all these bikes at some stage - 8 gear altus, 9 gear alivio, 10 gear deore (the spec "shadow plus" means the rear derailleur has a chain tensioner that stops the chain from flying off the cranks - well, if you bump it hard enough it will, though!). so i'm just speaking from experience. the deore parts never need adjusting. mine's up to 3 years now, riding a few times a week. the others work just fine, but a dog to pedal. had a 7 gear tourney, after a while it gives up and no matter what you do it won't work properly, can't change gears etc. the common thing from all the bikes - they squeak after a while. which really annoys me.

the other important thing is size - how tall are you

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networkn

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# 2287873 2-Aug-2019 21:25

Sorry to hijack but @batman what would you buy for $1000-1200. Weight is something I care about since I have a bad Shoulder and Back and the bikes are on the wall. I am 177cm

Loismustdye

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# 2287876 2-Aug-2019 21:35

@batman I’m 169 to 170cm tall.
Thanks for the feedback on those gears, good to know.

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# 2287880 2-Aug-2019 21:49

yeah M is perfect

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# 2287882 2-Aug-2019 21:51

networkn:

Sorry to hijack but @batman what would you buy for $1000-1200. Weight is something I care about since I have a bad Shoulder and Back and the bikes are on the wall. I am 177cm

i thought you had bought a bike recently? you won't get a much lighter bike i'm afraid. every $1000 above $1000 shaves off about 500g. but i'll take a look.

if you have bad shoulder and back then bike fit is most important. you want a position where most of your weight goes down the hips and as little borne by the shoulders and hands. the 2 most important things are bike geometry (can't change much) and butt-specific seat (trial and error!)

need to know your

- weight

- arm span

- in-seam

- whether you can touch your toes - yes/no/beyond

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# 2287883 2-Aug-2019 21:57

networkn:

Sorry to hijack but @batman what would you buy for $1000-1200. Weight is something I care about since I have a bad Shoulder and Back and the bikes are on the wall. I am 177cm

install a pulley. see trademe.

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# 2289046 3-Aug-2019 12:19

@Loismustdye

I took another look at the silverback comp you linked and I may have slightly misled you. The componentry is slightly suspicious for a "real" mountain bike. I doubt you are planning to do any "real" mountain biking, but apart from that, the listed specs are head and shoulders above the other 2 you linked.

Do you think you could ask the guy to weigh the bike? I'm interested in how much it weighs. I expect it to weigh 13kg.

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