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nicmair

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#300540 16-Sep-2022 15:48
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If done enough car maintenance and repairs over the years to be dangerously knowledgeable about most car repairs, but I stuffed if I can decode this failure reason.  I’ve inspected all the right rear brake assemble, ensured everything is as should be and it all looks and behaves fine.  The brakes work fie, and didn’t fail with poor braking, or wearing pads?

 

 

 

So if anyone can advise what a VTNZ Fault code “BROT, Right Rear Brake Shoes Binding Remedy” I’d be much appreciative.

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Nic.


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xpd

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  #2969220 16-Sep-2022 15:58
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Brake Binding – Easy DIY fix – Rustyautos.com

 

Maybe that will give an idea ?>





XPD / Gavin

 

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lxsw20
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  #2969228 16-Sep-2022 16:02
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I'm guessing you took it somewhere that use a rolling road to do brake test? and one side was sticking on - Possibly bad wheel cylinder?


tweake
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  #2969256 16-Sep-2022 16:55
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If you have checked the brakes and the hand brake, and none of it is cause a pad to drag, then it could simply be VTNZ. they are well known to make stuff up.




cruxis
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  #2969273 16-Sep-2022 17:59
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Maybe Return Springs are little weak causing the Brake Shoes Not to fully Disengage. 

 

 


Jase2985
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  #2969307 16-Sep-2022 19:42
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calipers or drum brakes?

 

if calipers, the slides could need greasing or the caliper piston could need to be removed and cleaned as they can sometimes become tight in the bore. the piston might not have been wound out correctly on a previous pad change (if applicable).


Mehrts
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  #2969780 18-Sep-2022 17:50
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With that wheel off the ground, is it free to rotate by hand?

Brakes aside, a bad wheel bearing could be causing drag too. Test this by removing the caliper from the rotor (if disc type brakes) and spinning the hub by hand. Rotation should be free of resistance, noise, and roughness. There should be some slight resistance due to the bearing grease and if applicable, bearing preload.


 
 
 

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Jase2985
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  #2970083 19-Sep-2022 12:34
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im guessing its not much of a problem to the OP as they havent come back to answer any of the questions.


gzt

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  #2970298 19-Sep-2022 20:26
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IME if you ask or ring the inspector that failed it on the day they will tell you exactly with as much detail as you want. Next day or next week could be too long.

timmmay
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  #2970300 19-Sep-2022 20:30
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A bit of CRC would probably fix that right up ;)

 

 

 

PS don't do this - it's a terrible idea!


K8Toledo
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  #2988936 27-Oct-2022 21:14
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Jase2985:

 

calipers or drum brakes?

 

if calipers, the slides could need greasing or the caliper piston could need to be removed and cleaned as they can sometimes become tight in the bore. the piston might not have been wound out correctly on a previous pad change (if applicable).

 

 

Yep I had this happen on my old Fairmont. 

 

Piston seized, but passed three WOF's because the garage didn't use rollers to test brakes they would just drive round the block and come  back.

 

VTNZ picked it up- I had suspected something was off due all the brake dust on that one wheel.

 

It's an easy fix though, I knocked the piston out with a hammer.


tieke
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  #2988978 28-Oct-2022 08:28
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I had one of these where after fully checking the binding wheel and finding no obvious issues, and then testing it by swapping that brake assembly to the other side, only to still have binding being on the original wheel, sometimes it's not the brake, but a faulty proportioning valve :)


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nicmair

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  #2989022 28-Oct-2022 09:44
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So, long story short, the car has a warrant.  

 


After I pulled everything to bits, cleaned it and checked and rechecked, I gave up and took the car to my local mechanic who did a full inspection on the brakes (all four wheels, not just the offending one) the wheel bearings etc, basically a full work over, (he did note a leaking seal, which VTNZ didn't comment one, so it's going back to get that done).  He said (and put a note of the work he had done on the warrant form, (which the VTNZ never looked at, I understand that they do their own inspections), that he was unable to find any issues and that the offending wheel, while marginally stiffer than the others, did not in his option warrant the failure.  

 

I then took it back to VTNZ only for it to fail again, for the same reason.  I asked what exactly the issue was, given that I had just had the car at the mechanic, (as per the mechanics note) to be told, "Right Rear Brake Binding Remedy" on asking further just what that means, the desk dude did go and talk to someone in the testing area, but then came back with "Right Rear Brake Binding Remedy", and that I should take it back to the mechanic, I pressed, but sensing I was not going to get anywhere fast, only getting more frustrated, I felt. 

 


A few days passed and I called the mechanic again, but was unable to talk to him, so left a message.  As the warrant recheck period had passed, I was now up for the full cost of a check.  I should add that it was the wife that took that car to VTNZ for the first check and me for the recheck (just cause the wife was working).

 


Feeling a tad miffed that it had failed again, and wondering now that, I thought sod it, so I called into another the warrant place, handed the keys over and left 40min later with a warrant.

 


Do I feel that VTNZ checks are too over the top, nope, do I think the second place checks are to slack, nope, do now see that there is variability in the checking process, of course and there always will be, but do I think the car is safe to drive yep.

 

I now know what Right Rear Brake Binding Remedy means, which is that when off the ground the wheel should roll freely, however it's clear that the degree of rolling resistance is a variable factor based on who is doing to rolling.

 

Will be interesting to see what happens in a year.

 

Many thanks for the comments and suggestions. 

 

 

 

 


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