Installing USB-C with PD in a car

Forums › Transport (cars, bikes and boats) › Installing USB-C with PD in a car

MikeAqua

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#304032 30-Mar-2023 14:02

Has anyone installed USB-C with PD in car?

I'm aware that I could just get an adaptor for the 12v socket, however I want something I can run for 90 minutes, when the engine key is in the off position.

I have space and access to a fuse slot and the wiring loom. I'll have an upstream switch and a timing relay between the switch and outlet

What else do I need to consider?

And can anyone recommended a good panel mounted outlet? 18W would be sufficient. 100W would be ideal, if it doesn't introduce too any complications.

Mike

Scott3

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#3056587 30-Mar-2023 14:20

First thing to check is that the car doesn't already have an allways on power socket in the glovebox or center console. Some do.

Consider the option of installing a pannel mounted 12v outlet (allways on / overrun timer to suit your taste), and plugging in a 12V adaptor.

I got the below one myself, and have been quite happy with it

www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003696634807.html

Sure came in handy when my wife forgot her laptop charger when we were out of town and she needed to work.

BlakJak

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#3056593 30-Mar-2023 14:41

Another vote for direct 12V and the use of a standard adapter. Easily replaced if it breaks...

I run radio equipment in my vehicle which requires clean 12V and to run often when the ignition is off. So i've run wires direct to the battery terminals (fused on the red side) which poke through the firewall and present in the cab at a location of my choosing. To run stuff that's OEM with a cig-lighter plug i've wired a cig lighter socket either into a panel or into a line socket tucked somewhere out of the way. To then run USB, a basic adapter serves.

Never done it with a timer for operation. But you seem to have an approach for that already.

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richms

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#3056598 30-Mar-2023 14:54

I got a mi branded 100w ciggy light plug. It has a USB C and a USB A, but when you use the A it turns the C down to 55 watts or so.

To get my power for always on in the old falcon, I tapped it off the stereo loom, but my demands were lower on that (Just keeping a powerbank topped up) - not sure how much an old cars permanent 12v to the stereo is fused at, but that is one place to tap in.

Richard rich.ms

MikeAqua

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#3059300 5-Apr-2023 11:50

richms:

I got a mi branded 100w ciggy light plug. It has a USB C and a USB A, but when you use the A it turns the C down to 55 watts or so.

To get my power for always on in the old falcon, I tapped it off the stereo loom, but my demands were lower on that (Just keeping a powerbank topped up) - not sure how much an old cars permanent 12v to the stereo is fused at, but that is one place to tap in.

3A for the always on function in the vehicle.

Mike

MikeAqua

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#3059310 5-Apr-2023 12:08

Thanks all for your replies, very helpful. I don't appear to have an always on socket in the vehicle. However, I do have an existing socket that I could use. So what I'm thinking is that I could move where this connects at the fuse-box so that it connects to an always on circuit.

I've also reconsidered the need for a switch and timer relay. A device being charged will only draw current until it's charged. That limits how much the battery (85 Ah, 12v) can be depleted. My phone as an example has a 7Ah, 3.8v battery and charging is limited to 85%. I was worrying about nothing

So, my remaining concern is heat. The outlet is located within a well-insulated centre console. If I'm charging phone in that environment do I need to be concerned with heat buildup?

Mike

Batman

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#3059319 5-Apr-2023 12:17

100W you'll need to change the fuse in the car

MikeAqua

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#3059329 5-Apr-2023 12:37

Batman:

100W you'll need to change the fuse in the car

Thanks, I'll check that out. The socket I'm looking at is designated at 120W (10A) IIRC. You'd hope the cabling was sized and protected with that in mind, but I'll double check.

Mike

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Jase2985

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#3059483 5-Apr-2023 20:37

Batman:

100W you'll need to change the fuse in the car

how do you come to that conclusion? the fuse could be anywhere from 7-15amps if its an actual cigarette lighter. similar for an accessory socket.

100w at 12v is 10A

Handle9

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#3059485 5-Apr-2023 20:39

Jase2985:

Batman:

100W you'll need to change the fuse in the car

how do you come to that conclusion? the fuse could be anywhere from 7-15amps if its an actual cigarette lighter. similar for an accessory socket.

100w at 12v is 10A

That and changing a fuse to a bigger one is a great way to start a fire if the wiring isn't rated for the new fuse.

Jase2985

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#3059488 5-Apr-2023 20:45

if the fuse isnt big enough then dont uprate the fuse unless you know the wiring can handle it. you would be better off running new wiring from a new fuse in the fuse box or straight off the battery with an inline fuse, and putting in a new socket.

BlakJak

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#3064006 15-Apr-2023 19:11

Yes, make sure you consider the current use of any circuit you decide to 'borrow'. Fuse value will have been selected to protect what's already on it already, uprating it too much will place the existing use-case into threat. For a higher-current use-case, a new run is highly recommended, and if it's for always-on use-case then direct-to-battery is worth doing.

Though when I did mine, I used grunty cable and set myself up to be able to support high-drain when I needed to have the option... lol, in the nearly 20 years i've had direct-to-battery additional DC i've used high-current stuff exactly once I think :)

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Goosey

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#3064169 16-Apr-2023 09:43

What sort of car?

You might be best to run a new wire direct off the battery, through the firewall (there will already be a gromit somewhere behind the glove box or vicinity of).

Pull thru the carpets or the back of dash to where you want it.

How much CCA is your current battery?

higher the better if you are going to be running things for more than an hour whilst car isnt running...