Buying a second hand car privately

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Lizard1977

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#309401 16-Oct-2023 10:35

I have a new friend who has recently arrived in the country, and they are looking for a cheap second-hand car to get around. They've found one they like, a private sale, and have asked me to take a look and give them my opinion.

I've never bought privately, always through a dealer. I will be prefacing my opinion with some strong caveats, but I'm interested to know what other people would recommend we do before agreeing to buy privately. For instance:

- Get a report on the vehicle: CarJam? MotorWeb? Is one better than the other, or is there a better alternative?

- get a pre-purchase inspection: the asking price is $3,500, so is it still worth it to get a pre-purchase inspection? I think it probably is, but keen to know what others think.

- Test-drive (obviously)

- anything else?

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#3148028 16-Oct-2023 10:41

I would make a beeline for the relevant owners forums and buying guides online to see what the likely issues would be for the make/model/year as a priority.

Pre-purchase inspections can be a bit of a lotto IME - they can be worthwhile but even a good one can only tell you so much about the likely future of the car.

Definitely do as much as you can via car reports to see if it has been involved in any major accidents - and that would be the best use of an inspection as well; is it all original, does it fit together properly, is the sub-frame whole and in good nick etc...

xpd

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#3148033 16-Oct-2023 10:50

Some basic physical checks you can do as well....

See the car before it has been started for the first time in the day - be the first the kick it over and see how it starts - if it struggles, then will need someone to assess further.

Check all electrics work - windows, lights, anything with a button.

Suspect bog has been used somewhere ? Take a fridge magnet and see if it sticks - if falls off just that part of the car, its got bog from a repair.

Before car has been taken for test drive, find where the oil filter is, and run your hand around it - should be relatively oil free. Then take for run, and then carefully (it'll be warm) check the filter again for leaking oil.

Check oil cap for residue - oil caps should be clean - if theres ANY sign of any sort of "dirt", this could be from internals wearing badly due to lack of oil.

Any sort of shudder or jolt while changing gears in an auto - walk away. Usually sign of gearbox on its way out - friend had this years ago, warned him about it, he ignored me... 3 months later he was selling the car that he paid $4k for, for $400 because the gearbox had died and was going to cost $3k to resolve.

Gavin / xpd / FastRaccoon / Geek of Coastguard New Zealand

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BlakJak

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#3148034 16-Oct-2023 10:56

Pre purchase inspection is worth about $200. So in the price bracket of $3500 you'd want to be very keen before forking out.

XPD's advice is pretty good. But at $3500 you're getting a car that's on the margins... it'll be high km's or have body issues or may have a repair (and at $3500 you should expect a car that's had a few things done).

If you think you'd be about to pull the trigger (no red flags) then a pre-purchase inspection will give you peace of mind, they can signal the stuff that is likely to be coming up and give you a view of things you won't get personally.

Recently went through this shopping for a $5K motor for my MIL. A PPI we organised moved us from 'go' to 'no go' on a car we were otherwise keen on, so I consider it money well spent in that case.

No signature to see here, move along...

alasta

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#3148046 16-Oct-2023 11:32

I recently helped my neighbour to buy a second hand car. As her first car I thought that she would be able to get a small basic hatchback for under $10k, but was shocked to discover how expensive second hand cars have become in the last few years.

You don't need to pay a mechanic to tell you that a car selling for $3500 is going to have something wrong with it.

gbwelly

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#3148051 16-Oct-2023 11:34

Just tell us what the car is and there is a good chance someone on here will know if it's going to be a lemon. For that price range I've bought and sold 7 cars over the years from trademe sight unseen and never been burnt. But that said, I like Japanese manufactured manuals so it's much safer waters to be swimming in.

Lizard1977

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#3148133 16-Oct-2023 13:47

It's a Kia Rio 2007 manual CVVT with about 145K on the clock. I took it out at lunch and it drives pretty well. I looked for all the things I could think of, and didn't spot any major red flags. The timing belt was serviced around 90K, which means it will be due in about 30K, and for the price of the car that might not be cost-effective given other things may start to go wrong. But as a short-term "bridging" car, it might be okay.

Two brand new tyres on the front, and good tread all round. No evidence of leaking in the engine bay (and no telltale evidence of recent cleaning to hide the fact). The electric window control on the front passenger side doesn't work, but it does from the driver's control panel. Wheel alignment might be slightly tracking to the left, and a small amount of play in the steering, but nothing too alarming. I've driven much worse before.

Transmission is good, clutch is responsive and brakes are too. Full-sized spare in the boot with a new tyre there too.

Seller bought it for his son to learn to drive a manual. They've had it a couple of months but selling it because he wants to get an auto.

Jvipers2

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#3148135 16-Oct-2023 13:59

For a peace of mind, I would bring the car to the garage that I will be doing my WOF with for a pre purchase inspection as there won't be any consumer protection once the deal is done.

That way, it also gives me an idea of what the cost would be in keeping it on the road.

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tehgerbil

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#3148138 16-Oct-2023 14:05

Carjam.co.nz reports are worthing paying for.

A few other things to check on top of XPD's fantastic list above - And I understand all of these do not apply to you, but might help anyone else reading this thread in the future.

•Lift the door up whilst open and see if there's much sag.
•Check the spare tyre bay for rust. (under and in the vehicle)
•Check the AC goes hot/cold.
•When driving does the steering wheel hold true or veer from left-right if held loosely in your hand.
•When driving are there are any vibrations being felt?
•Have someone else drive it and sit in the backseat to hear any squeals/squeaks you may miss in the front.
•Check the bushings around the steering rack/suspension system. (finger the ribs and see if there's any leaking fluid)
•See if it's ever been written off: https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/choosing-the-right-vehicle/recalls-and-damaged-vehicles/written-off-and-damaged-vehicles/
•Plug USB charger into the cigarette lighter to confirm it's working and able to supply current.
•Check the boot stays are ok and have a good amount of resistance when opening/closing.
•Look for uneven wear on tyres to indicate an alignment issue (also steering wheel check above).
•If it's got an immobilizer how many fobs are available? If you'll need another look up whether it can be copied or a new one can be purchased (Mr Minit can usually tell you).
•Jack up a wheel and check for play in the bearing by wiggling the wheel from side to side.

When buying privately I always draught up an agreement with 3 copies:

I <Jo bloggs> am purchasing this vehicle <Make> <Model> <VIN#> <km's> from <Harry Styles> on <Date>

The buyer and seller of this vehicle understand there's no warranty period stated, provided or given by the seller, the vehicle is being sold to me on an 'as is, where is' basis.

OR:

If this vehicle is found to have any major mechanical or electrical faults buyer (does or doesn't) reserve the right to seek remuneration to repair these faults.

If this vehicle is found to be/have <anything you list, such as if the vehicle is stolen> then buyer reserves the right to cancel the sale and be provided a full refund of the purchase price.

Sellers details:
Name, DOB, address etc.
Drivers license# etc.

Buyers details:
Name, DOB, address etc.
Drivers license# etc.

Purchase of this vehicle is for <amount> to be paid in <transfer or cash method>

signed:
Jo

signed:
Harry

Witness:
<Whoever>

Or something to that effect.

Hope this helps either you or anyone else looking at this thread. :)

cddt

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#3148139 16-Oct-2023 14:10

Definitely get an inspection from a trusted mechanic or an independent inspector who does this for a living. Do not use the AA inspection service.

BlakJak

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#3148149 16-Oct-2023 14:34

cddt:
Definitely get an inspection from a trusted mechanic or an independent inspector who does this for a living. Do not use the AA inspection service.

Curious about why not AA?

No signature to see here, move along...

cddt

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#3148160 16-Oct-2023 14:48

BlakJak:

Curious about why not AA?

Personal experience. I was young and naive so got the AA in before I bought my first car. The guy went through the form and ticked the boxes but in hindsight didn't give a crap. And worse, failed to identify several major problems which would have been apparent to anyone halfway knowledgeable about cars. My mechanic subsequently identified these issues and it cost me a lot of money (for a student) - and my younger self was too scared to go back to the seller to dispute the condition of the car.

xpd

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#3148162 16-Oct-2023 14:50

I know a number of years ago, it was a great idea to avoid AA as you'd generally end up with the "mature" mechanic who didn't actually know anything about cars built after 1980 and tell you having an ECU missing a PIN and an ants nest in the turbo was fine :D "Compression test, whats that ?"

But these days, theyre a bit more onto it with better equipment :)

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RogerMellie

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#3148166 16-Oct-2023 15:01

If you're in Auckland I recommend InCar Automotive for doing a pre-purchase inspection - https://incarautomotive.co.nz/

I saw a recommendation for them on this forum at the beginning of the year and used them in April when I purchased a 2nd hand car.

richms

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#3148175 16-Oct-2023 15:23

BlakJak:
cddt:

Definitely get an inspection from a trusted mechanic or an independent inspector who does this for a living. Do not use the AA inspection service.

Curious about why not AA?

They will give you a long list of all the tears in the seats and marks on the dashboard and neglect to even look at the exhaust being held on with hopes, prayers and a piece of wire coathanger that a friend bought.

Richard rich.ms

mattwnz

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#3148182 16-Oct-2023 15:38

What is the car? This can make a big difference. Some makes I wouldn't touch once out of warranty, while some makes and models can last decades and 100's of thousands of km without needing major repairs. .I think they maybe better to spend a bit more to get something a lot better.

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