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mrhaboobi

165 posts

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#319194 1-Apr-2025 09:47
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HI.

 

Have a nissan Leaf ( 2016 ) and a mazda 6 ( 2006 ),  both have old school 50MM towbars on them which was great for our bikes.  In the leaf we don't tow anything, in the Mazda i do tow occasionally.

 

 

 

Have recently wanted to change bike racks and looking at some Hitch Based options.  I know that Leaf's have a Hitch based unit via a few companies that are compatible with the car however its a good 500+ to swap over ( i don't need the light wiring as that's already there and i assume bolt mounts would be similar. ) Tried to see if i could buy bar only and do the install myself, but manufactures not keen to sell just a bar and so id be paying for fitting via them as well.  Could see the bar second hand to offset some costs as a possibility.  Seeing a mix of 50 - 60 - 90KG downward weight limits, unclear as to what is setting that limit.  Have read overseas that 200 - 300 LBs is possible.  Aussie has 90KG options as well.  So not sure if its an arbitrary limit given Nissan don't rate the car for towing, and maying there is a limit  for towing certification? 

 

For mazda I've not seen a hitch option so far.  The unit i have is a fixed tongue and its goes straight out the back, no bends.

 

 

 

So given i have all the units already mounted, I'm wondering if its feasible to modify the units to have a Hitch Connector.  In my naive world its a matter of 

 

 

 

1)  Cutting the existing tongue off at the join to the main bar.  and replacing with a a new tongue which has a hitch connector.  this would be a straight tongue as the hitch will sit lower )  From what i can see its generally welded in, though i don't know if this is possible after the bar has been completed ( is the steel hardened after at all? )

 

2) Weld on a hitch connector to the existing bar.  Essentially remove the tow ball and weld on a hitch to the bottom of the existing bar ( this would work for the Mazda, as its a straight tongue and long and would just require a larger cut out in the bumper which is easy enough to do.   for the leaf it would depend on if the hitch would fit where the tow ball is  Potentially the end of the car would need to be cut shorter as the hitch will sit closer to the bumper so excess length could be removed.

 

3) Use a Mister Hitch style adaptor that allows you to bolt on a hitch to the top of the towbar, ( bolt replaces the tow ball ).  What I've not been able to confirm is their suitability for a bike rack that can fold up.  appears they may not support that.  

 

 

 

So my question really is is this the type of thing that can be done, or anyone modified bars before?  Just trying to keep the cost down as much as possible.   Trying to keep the price down to under half of the replacement costs where possible. 

 

Any help appreciated. 

 

Cheers

 

  


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Ge0rge
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  #3359398 1-Apr-2025 10:33
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In theory, yes you can weld to a tow bar frame, your idea of welding a hitch on is achievable. 

 

In practice, you will need to find someone who can weld and has good enough gear to be able to do the welds that need to be done. They will want money to do that, and rightly so. They will probably want more than you are willing to pay by the sounds of it. They will need to get in a length of square hollow section the correct size, and that stuff doesn't come in little pieces - normally 6m or 8m lengths. You might be able to find a towbar manufacturer who has that steel in stock and is willing to sell you a short piece. 

 

Then you'll need to cut the old tounge off and prep that area for welding. I haven't looked in to the details of welding on an EV, normally we would disconnect the battery to prevent any electrical issues but hmmmm. So probably need to remove the old bar from the leaf and weld that on the bench. Easier to weld, more labour and time required. The Mazda could be welded in place, more annoying to weld as it'd be positional, assuming all the right spots could be reached without removal. 

 

Prep the hitch to be welded on. Drill and tap the anti-rattle bolt and then some sort of protective coating after weld. All of this takes time.

 

Your option 2 would be a non-starter for me. Considering the extra torque that you could place on the entire system by mounting it that way? No engineer is going to agree to that. 

 

This might sound harsh, but unless you either know someone with the skills who is willing to do the work for peanuts for you, or you have the skills and equipment to do it yourself, pay the person who has got both appropriately and call it done. It sounds like you have already found them, but don't value their time or experience enough to pay for it. 




Handsomedan
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  #3359464 1-Apr-2025 12:36
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Something to consider...would any of these modifications cause an insurance issue - i.e. you have a minor accident, make a claim, they see there's a non-conforming modification in the form of a welded addition that hasn't been certed and you get your claim declined. 





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scuwp
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  #3359472 1-Apr-2025 12:51
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Do it once, do it right.  You will be crying if your (potentially expensive?) bikes end up strewn all over the highway and under a 50 tonne truck, not to mention the risk posed to other road users, just to take shortcuts.    

 

Go to a decent tow bar manufacturer - they will install something appropriate that is certified.  

 

I don't know where you are based, if in the Waikato, Designer Bars have always looked after my vehicles.  Far cheaper than the OEM bars, and probably better.   





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Ge0rge
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  #3359476 1-Apr-2025 13:00
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Handsomedan:

 

Something to consider...would any of these modifications cause an insurance issue - i.e. you have a minor accident, make a claim, they see there's a non-conforming modification in the form of a welded addition that hasn't been certed and you get your claim declined. 

 

 

 

 

There's no requirement for a light vehicle tow bar to have any form of certification. You can build it in your shed if you like.

 

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