Making DVDs

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Rickles

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#10991 24-Dec-2006 10:21

I have recently been transferring some VHS video-taped material to DVD using my Philips DVD recorder's hard drive, thence to DVD +R/W disk, then

DVD-R via the computer. Largely the results are pretty acceptable (resolutions notwithstanding) and particularly better when played back on the DVDR as opposed to my Home Theatre Onkyo unit (plays DVD-R only) ... on the Onkyo, the disk often sputters with artifacts and on occassion stops altogether.

I've assumed the reason to be the electronic version of the old troubles we had with copying data on one floppy drive and reading it on another machine?

I also copied/recorded a DVD from the Onkyo video outlet directly into the DVDR hard disk, then copied to DVD+R/W, then DVD-R using computer, but after about 10 minutes this too will splutter and display massive artifacts using either machine for playback.

Questions: 1: Would final DVD's be better quality/no artifacts if I copied in DVD+R format (which the DVDR unit will do and finalise in the machine itself)?

2: Why, when recording directly from a playing original DVD, does the final copy become unplayable?

3: Why do all the DVDs play perfectly well using the computer's DVD drive?

Any help or comment would be appreciated.

Cheers,

juha

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#56275 24-Dec-2006 12:22

FORMAT SHIFTING CRIME IN PROCESS! FREEZE, PERP! THE RECORDING INDUSTRY COPYRIGHT ENFORCEMENT ORGANISATION WILL APPREHEND YOU SHORTLY.

What I think is happening... you are seeing the effects of copy protection on the DVD players. Not sure why this doesn't happen when when you put the discs into the computer's DVD drive though.

Juha

Rickles

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#56283 24-Dec-2006 14:07

Juha,

Ha ha ha ... you may be assured that no commercial dvd's or movie moguls were harmed in my copying trials <bg>.

R.

zad1

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#56546 29-Dec-2006 14:53

In my meagre experience whenever I've suffered problems like pixelation, jerking or freezing or the disc downright stopping, it's been because I've worn out my DVD drive and it's time to get a new one. When the laser gets a bit old or faulty, it seems to get a bit touchy about what discs it likes and doesn't like. Buying a new player seems to fix it.
Also, some brands of blank disc are crap. I bought a spindle of 50 cheap ones once and couldn't get a successful copy on any of them. I didn't get a faulty image though, just nothing. But I bought a different brand and problem gone.
Theoretically, you should be able to copy the data from one disc to another to another without any degradation, since it's just digital.

Shankly

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#56701 1-Jan-2007 23:31

I agree with Zad1, stay away from cheap dvd's. I recently bought 50 unbranded discs which are pretty much useless unless you want a miniture frisby. they play fine on the pc, but I put them in my dvd player and they lock the thing solid, can't read it or eject it, so had to eject it manually, tried on a mates dvd player with the same result. After examining the dvd's most of them have strange patterns (bleeding) in the middle where the lead-in would be. I assume this is the problem. I think I'll stick to Imation from now on. A while ago I stuffed the laser on my PS2 which was apparently caused by using budget dvd's.
Another problem I have had recently was upgrading from Nero 6 to 7, I don't know what the problem was but dvd's converted to vob and burnt with Nero 7 stuttered and paused, I have gone back to Nero 6 and they are perfect. Hope this helps.

JohnPorter

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#56711 2-Jan-2007 09:02

This is another vote for brand name discs. I tried a couple other brands, namely BeAll and Ritek, with varying degrees of failure. In one case, 75 of 100 discs were faulty! Then got a spindle of Verbatim, and haven't had any problems at all since. Three years ago when I did that, there was a big difference in price ($7 per disc locally for Imation vs $2 for the other brand via internet), but name brands are cheap enough now.

lchiu7

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#56727 2-Jan-2007 10:50

I usually buy brand name but have had great success with the ones sold by Electronics Boutique. 50 DVD-R with full printable surfaces for about $26. Not sure what brand they are but they are made in HK. Not only do they burn at 8X, are printable, but play on all DVD players I have. Otherwise I buy Imation printable's since they offer printing on the entire surface of the disc - not just to the larger sized hug.

Larry

Staying in Wellington. Check out my AirBnB in the Wellington CBD. https://www.airbnb.co.nz/h/wellycbd PM me and mention GZ to get a 15% discount and no AirBnB charges.

Rickles

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#56782 3-Jan-2007 10:07

Zad, et al,

Many thanks for your further answers. In fact, I've already been through the cheapy-brand thing some time ago and tend to use only Imation ... as was the case this time.

As for disk drive age, both units are within 2 years old, and I use Nero 6.

I tried copying/ripping the original on the PC using a number of apps, but they all balked at certain points, so my best guess now is that the original has flaws, even though it plays perfectly in any DVD player!

I blame global warming <BG>.

R.

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zad1

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#56846 4-Jan-2007 12:56

Hi
There is a website which tells you which type of disc works best on which player. Can't remember at the moment, I'll check it when I get home.
The "cheapest is worst" argument is not necessarily true. The problem is, the name that is printed on the outside of the DVD is meaningless. What matters is the factory the disc wwas made in. For example, one Sony DVD miight be top notch, another Sony one may be crap.

There is a type of software that reads your blank disc and tells you exactly what the make and number of the disc is. You will be surprised to find it's often not the brand name printed on the disc. All the 'brand names' purchase their blank discs from the same factories.

You can also get a situation where one factory has eight machines that stamp the dye onto the disc, and one of the machines is faulty. So all the batches that come off that one machine will be crap. That's why if you buy a spindle of 50, if one is a dud it is likely most of the others are. The spindle of fifty nextt to it might be perfectly alright. There is a website that rates the (true) make/model for reliability. Again, that info is on my computer at home. I'll post it when I look it up.

I chucked Nero ages ago. I always use DVD Decrypter as my burner, freely available on the net. I always use DVD Decrypter for extracting DVD files, and DVD Shrink for editing/compressing them, then DVD Decrypter for burning them.

Both are free on the web and better than any commercial software. (DVD Shrink was actually bought by Nero and is now known as 'Nero Recode', but you can still get the free DVD Shrink on the web.)

And another thing, I have found two years is old for DVD Writers. It depends how you use them and what you use them for. Extracting/reading files off DVDs seem to wear the lasers out quickly.

I had problems reading/playing some DVDs on my old DVD writer which was two years old, , bought a new one and no problems. Also faster burning.

zad1

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#56872 4-Jan-2007 15:41

"using my Philips DVD recorder's hard drive"
Sorry, I assumed it was a PC one. Is this a stand alone plug into the tv one?

"my Home Theatre Onkyo unit (plays DVD-R only)"
Strange. Should be compatible with both. Are you sure it's less than 2 yrs old?

"... on the Onkyo, the disk often sputters with artifacts and on occassion stops altogether."
Dirty/faulty laser? You can try a 'cleaning disc' that you stick in which can remove dust from the laser lens.

"...I also copied/recorded a DVD from the Onkyo video outlet directly into the DVDR hard disk, then copied to DVD+R/W, then DVD-R using computer."
Not sure what the 'Onkyo video outlet' is. But at the computer stage you should use DVD Decrypter to remove copy prohibits or protections. (Some copy prohibits let you copy twice digitally before @&^*$ with your burn.)

"...Questions: 1: Would final DVD's be better quality/no artifacts if I copied in DVD+R format."
There is utterly no difference in quality between DVD-R and DVD+R. Just a 'brand war' between major licensers which was resolved long ago. All drives subsequently should be compatible with both.

"Why, when recording directly from a playing original DVD, does the final copy become unplayable?"
Probably CSSS encryption. Solution - DVD-Decrypter!

"Why do all the DVDs play perfectly well using the computer's DVD drive?"
No bogey software designed to snare unwary consumers...? (Maybe avoid stand-alone units designed to stop consumers being able to copy? Don't know.But on the computer, you can install DVD4free or DVDRegionFree which will remove zone restrictions and most CSSS encryptions when you put the disc in.)

Also, you may want to look into flashing your drive with new firmware. I know you can do this on the PC, but again, I think the consumer of stand-alone burners might be @#%!* stuck with old product.

I'll track down some links that may be of use.

zad1

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#56952 4-Jan-2007 23:29

Right.
To check firmware; http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_all.php

or; http://flashman.rpc1.org/Firmware/DVD-CD_firmware_detect.exe

Help on DVDwriters, brands, quality and users ratings;
http://www.videohelp.com/dvdwriters

Guide to blank disc quality and link to get DVDInfo software - very interesting;
http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm

get decrypter;
http://www.digital-digest.com/dvddecrypter/index.php

how to use DVD Decrypter;
http://mrbass.org/dvdrip/

get DVD Shrink and tutorials;
http://www.mrbass.org/dvdshrink/

Rickles

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#56956 5-Jan-2007 08:54

Zad1,

Many thanks for all your comment and suggestions. I'm already operating 90% of what you say/suggest in terms of PC software etc.

I think my problem is either 1: disk quality, or 2: corrupt original (has no copy protect or zoning hindrances).

Cheers ... R.