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243 posts

Master Geek
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Topic # 120908 18-Jun-2013 08:45
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Hi

Can anyone advise what's the best Resene colour for painting a wall that the projector will project onto?

Has anyone used Alabaster ??

Thanks

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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 838508 18-Jun-2013 09:20
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I have used a Tallis Grey, or somthing simarly named, with a smidgeon of pearlescent powder added - don't think it's an exact match for Resene.
I trawled thru AVForum a few years ago - a squillion posts on different paints and mixtures ... if anything, use what you have - no gloss, and add a matt black surround like curtains, or similar - the surround material made the most difference as compared to various paint solutions - the surround defines the screen and stops your gaze from wandering "off screen"




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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 838627 18-Jun-2013 12:06
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Ask Resene. They should be able to advise.

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Master Geek
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  Reply # 838732 18-Jun-2013 14:44
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Use Resene white, or Dulux vivid white

Use a matt type as sheen causes hot spotting.

For grey type the Thomas Tallis 747 or it might have been 474, been a while since I used it.
However the concept of grey screens is a little redundant with modern projectors.


For painting itself use 1/4in nap smooth roller, avoid the sponge type.

Prep the surface with ulta care.

Between layers cover the roller in gladrap or one of those rolling container.

Do not clean with water then reuse the roller unless completely dry as this will leave pimples in final finish.

You need 1 base coat and up to 5 layers of paint as light penetrates this deep and will reflect any sub colour. Each layer is a light coating so as not to become orange peel like.

Be careful not to dry roll as this causes roller lines.

Do not over work the rolling.

You can use sprayers, very light dusting coats though and build up the surface.

You may need to allow complete drying of 2 layers at a time and use very light sanding to remove lines pimples and blemishes.

Blemishes show up badly.

Good luck.
PS: Dont bother with all those mixes, tried many and built my own, white is simple and effective





Masterpiece Calibration Ltd, isf certified

 

www.mastercal.co.nz

 

 

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  Reply # 838733 18-Jun-2013 14:49
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Bit of nostalgia here, quite exciting. As above, take lots of care.

As Masterpiece alludes to, the grey screen was to ensure your blacks were black, but if the projector has better contrast ratios (easily when compared to 10 years ago) this should be less and less of a problem.

I used one called silver screen, which wasn't silver or metallic at all, but the generally accepted colour was the Thomas Tallis one from Dulux.  Avoid any sheen/metallic components as they will hot spot in that area.  And it will look decidedly average if you try this over textured wallpaper...

Honestly even today the projector is still the bit that makes you go wow, and creates that vibe like you are at the movies. 100" screens are very easily obtainable, which equates to roughly 4x 50" flat panels for a fraction of the price.

All the best, and please post some pictures!

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  Reply # 839814 19-Jun-2013 20:32
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80 inches is rather small for projection though...

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Master Geek
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  Reply # 839866 19-Jun-2013 21:23
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  Reply # 839920 19-Jun-2013 22:24
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Dunnersfella: 80 inches is rather small for projection though...


Plan C then...

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  Reply # 841113 21-Jun-2013 15:13
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Plan B again:
http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=77&topicid=121027

100" screen for $75 including shipping...

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 841130 21-Jun-2013 15:34
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I recently built a man cave in the garage and added a projector screen wall and painted the wall Thomas Tallis Flat Wash and wear paint and it looks awesome. preforms really well, very pleased.

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Wannabe Geek


  Reply # 841894 23-Jun-2013 10:56
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Hi there, I work for Resene.

There are three main options our customers use:
1. Resene Pearl Shimmer over a white wall.  Resene Pearl Shimmer is a pearlescent style finish and the users of it have told us it helps with the image quality.
2. Resene Aluminium - a metallic aluminium finish - needs to be sprayed on and only suitable if you are happy to have a metallic finish on your wall.
3. Resene Silver Chalice - a light grey, which sounds similar to the other greys mentioned by others.

If you want to stick to a white wall, you can either go straight white (which doesn't always look that nice aesthetically) or choose something like Resene Black White.  We would agree with the comments that it's good to block out any distractions on the sides of the screen area so that viewers don't get distracted.

Product wise people have generally used Resene SpaceCote Flat (dead flat finish) or some use Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen if they want it to look like a 'normal' wall.  Both of these products are more washable than a standard acrylic paint finish.

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Master Geek
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  Reply # 845411 26-Jun-2013 09:24
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Hi ResKaren

I tried all of the base, pearls,Aluminium and the chalice, even sourced raw aluminium product.All failed with respect to colour performance when acting as screen. The major problem was differential absorption between the primary colours RGB. Blue scatters more readily and always absorbs first with aluminium or black added to paint.
Another issue with aluminium mixes for screens is the way the particals lay, where they tend to sit virtical with respect to the surface which is the opposite of what is required.

This is why I recommend the straight white options, although asthetically not as pleasing as the other options, white performs better for screen work. A hint of black can be added(that is all Thomas Tallis is), but even that is pushing it. Resene Black white is an option as it has only a touch of black and isnt so stark as pure white base.
(ps: wife is an interior consultantand we have had warmer discussions about this :) )




Masterpiece Calibration Ltd, isf certified

 

www.mastercal.co.nz

 

 

"I'm not a robot!"

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  Reply # 845466 26-Jun-2013 10:58
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Masterpiece: Hi ResKaren

I tried all of the base, pearls,Aluminium and the chalice, even sourced raw aluminium product.All failed with respect to colour performance when acting as screen. The major problem was differential absorption between the primary colours RGB. Blue scatters more readily and always absorbs first with aluminium or black added to paint.
Another issue with aluminium mixes for screens is the way the particals lay, where they tend to sit virtical with respect to the surface which is the opposite of what is required.

This is why I recommend the straight white options, although asthetically not as pleasing as the other options, white performs better for screen work. A hint of black can be added(that is all Thomas Tallis is), but even that is pushing it. Resene Black white is an option as it has only a touch of black and isnt so stark as pure white base.
(ps: wife is an interior consultantand we have had warmer discussions about this :) )


To add to this, it's not always best to go with what is most commonly purchased.  I hear the likes of electricians being recommended gizmo UHF/VHF combo aerials for use with freeview, or running daisy changed phone outlets etc.  Just because the reseller says this product/method is most popular with the trades guys, doesn't mean it's the best unfortunately. 

Ultimately you're not looking for extra 'sparkle' from a screen, you're after something that preserves the intended image without introducing colour shifts or hot spots etc.

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Wannabe Geek


  Reply # 845521 26-Jun-2013 12:10
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Hi again,

My comments were to advise you of what our customers have tried themselves at their own initiative and has worked for them.  I guess everyone has their own preference as to how they want to view things.  We don't push any one option because everyone's requirements are different and we have had customers try a range of things that they are happy with.

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  Reply # 845555 26-Jun-2013 12:58
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I had the Taubman Tallis grey for about 2 years. Wiped a moth of the screen one night and made a hot spot so had to repaint at which time I changed to white.

IMO White was a big improvement in colour and everything just "pops" more.

Black boarders for contrast (I use a mat black paint) are essential IMO.





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