The UniFi AP's are powered over Ethernet. Just run Ethernet to it and power it from your Network closet... No need to have a power socket close to it.

michaelmurfy:

 

The UniFi AP's are powered over Ethernet. Just run Ethernet to it and power it from your Network closet... No need to have a power socket close to it.

 

No, I'm talking about pre-existing wiring running to lights and sockets elsewhere in the house.

Oubadah:

 

michaelmurfy:

 

The UniFi AP's are powered over Ethernet. Just run Ethernet to it and power it from your Network closet... No need to have a power socket close to it.

 

 

No, I'm talking about pre-existing wiring running to lights and sockets elsewhere in the house.

 

Oh right sorry I misunderstood. There is no need to worry about it as most ballasts are RF shielded and mains wiring doesn't bother them. I've installed them right beside discharge lights in shops with no issues at all.

Usually the standard is 50 mm, but check here, page 17, 3.2.2 & 3.2.3

Im not aware of any cases of the RF from an AP affecting ballasts and other stuff. I did have some old CFL's that would spaz out when a GSM phone was near them, but cant say I have seen anything like that affected recently, and GSM is much worse than WIFI for interference.

AS/NZ3000 has a 50mm distance or solid barrier between Telecom/Data cabling and LV (<1000V AC). Data cabling standards recommend min 300mm clearance of Telecom/Data cabling from heavy electrical machinery (motors, fans etc), which includes fluro fittings. Personally I always like to include switching supplies as found in halogen and led lighting systems with that.

Experience has also found it good to place a minimum of 300mm between Wireless APs and smoke/PIR detectors to avoid interference, normally AP will screw with smoke/motion detector not other way around. 

Cyril 

I run a pair of UniFi APs in the house (it's long and skinny) and have them hanging off the rafters in the attic space - plenty of room away from other cabling / power runs.  I've found I don't need to have them exposed on the 'house side' of the ceiling.  (Although its only kids & wifes tablets / phones that are using it - everything else is cabled back to the router & switch).

In saying that - they do look neat, so mounting your PRO room side means you can point at it and smile at your awesome Wifi.

Greg

GregF:

 

I run a pair of UniFi APs in the house (it's long and skinny) and have them hanging off the rafters in the attic space - plenty of room away from other cabling / power runs.  I've found I don't need to have them exposed on the 'house side' of the ceiling.  (Although its only kids & wifes tablets / phones that are using it - everything else is cabled back to the router & switch).

 

In saying that - they do look neat, so mounting your PRO room side means you can point at it and smile at your awesome Wifi.

 

Greg

 

Interesting. 

I have 3 UAPs to install, and am not looking forward to cutting 3 holes in the ceiling of our "long and skinny" single-storey villa.

We have lots of room in the loft.

How far from the ceiling are your UAPs?

Are they positioned horizontal or vertical?

my question would be how hot does it get in there. because its going to decrease the life of any electronic components placed in there if it gets too hot

Thanks for the replies, I have my AC Pro installed now.

Jase2985:

 

my question would be how hot does it get in there. because its going to decrease the life of any electronic components placed in there if it gets too hot

 

The maximum operating temperature for the AP AC __ line is listed as 70°C... That can't be right.

https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/unifi/UniFi_AC_APs_DS.pdf

Heat in the roof cavity was the main reason why I installed mine externally.