alsta: Re-terminate ?

Unscrew and remove all wiring at the switch and the shelly.

Cut and strip again and terminate everything.

alsta: Nah. It’s the Shelly. Had the lights in for a few weeks prior

How long is the flicker - up to a minute or one off?

If it is up to a minute, it could be the ripple control signals coming through. They cause my led lights to flicker, only when the lights are dimmed, with both the aeotec nano (rubbish) and the shelly dimmer (great).  Check the times they flicker, and if they are consistent it could be this. If so, there are a few options to filter the ripple control out if needed, however, they tend to be on a per circuit basis.

While we're on ripple control and not to hijack your flicker issue, I've got a couple of 2.5s hooked up and one of them which is running 10 leds will flick on and off most nights after 7pm for up to a couple of minutes, you can hear it clicking on and off in the wall. Do you guys think this is ripple control? the other shellys are fine and the other 2.5 only has 5 lights on it and doesn't suffer this issue, it bugs the sh1t out of me lol

Hi,

For what it is worth it is *definitely* the ripple controls. It happens most typically at 7am, 11am, 5pm, 9pm, and 11pm as these are the key 'load control' times. This affects only certain types of driver (not the shelly) and generally only happens when the lights are dimmed. At full brightness there is generally no flicker. When you do get flickering it will go for about a minute for each signal that gets sent, then it will stop. You can get ripple control filters but they are about $300 per room so totally not worth it....

CP. 

Hi All,

I am exploring to make regular switches smart which are connected to led downlights. I have Home assistant with few smart devices already running great like motion sensors, door sensors, garage door, Xiaomi light bulbs, temp & humidity sensor. The next best cheapest solution without changing much is putting shelly's behind switches would get me some outdoor smart lighting and motion activated deck led lights. All light are led's and the switches are indoor.

Just wondering if buying Shelly2.5 from Aliexpress would affect the certification or not? Or do I have to buy it from a NZ supplier only? 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002789235469.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.617a3c007yiEW9&mp=1

Thanks.

The importer will provide the certification, are they any cheaper on AliExpress than the EU shop?

It is almost similar price as EU shop, but I have 100% cashback from Aliexpress with SG crypto so felt like a way to go.

If anyone is interested in the referral DM me.

Hey all - just purchased a Shelly 1L from https://fernwood.nz/ (thought I'd link a NZ based supplier here also) in an attempt to automate a fog machine for Halloween.

This fog machine is pretty basic in operation - basically has a remote with a LED that lights when the unit is up to temperature and a switch that turns on the pump inside the machine. What I am going to do is build another remote with a 3D printed case with a Shelly 1L inside it and link it up to Home Assistant. I could basically steal neutral from the remote (which only exists when the unit is up to temperature) else what I'd prefer is the unit connect to WiFi regardless. Any ideas?

This is literally my first time using a Shelly device :)

Yep just to echo what @Ge0rge mentioned, I think just standard Shelly 1 might actually be better for this application unless the activation switch on the machine runs at 230V. The other cool little Shelly device that could be used for this is the Shelly Uni which is designed to be built in to things to deal with ELV switching (specifically up to 36V).

The awesome thing about Shelly 1 is it has dry relay contacts. So you could power the Shelly off 230V within the machine, but then just attach the relay contacts to the switch input regardless of the voltage that switch input runs at.

Stand to be corrected, but I don't think the 1L has dry contacts (which is how they can deal with the no neutral situation).

That's some pretty sharp pricing from Fernwood Tech too!

chevrolux:

 

Yep just to echo what @Ge0rge mentioned, I think just standard Shelly 1 might actually be better for this application unless the activation switch on the machine runs at 230V.

The remotes on these usually switch mains power. There are even some versions out there with XLR plugs carrying mains power to the remotes. Don't plug the wrong thing in there!

Anyone need any Shelly 1s? I will have maybe 10 available shortly. Maybe 6 new 4 old. I'll get a count when I get home today.

Would prefer to sell all of them. I bought too many for a renovation and also swapped some out for 1PMs.