The smaller, the better - as it's going into a media room with the home theatre.
Not sure about the budget - $300 max?
Thanks
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How long do you want the UPS to power the system for?
For the 12v Devices I'm using 2 of these: https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/UPSPSD1100/PowerShield-PSDCMIN1218-Mini-UPS-12VDC-1Amp-18Watt
For the 230v devices I went Eaton: https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/UPSPWR62673/Eaton-5S-1200VA750W-Line-Interactive-Tower-UPS
Initially tried a Cyberpower but the things draw 30-40w just fully charged and idling. The Eaton draws a much more respectible 10w at idle.
I work for a global Data Protection Software company - But my opinions are my own.
Nate001:
How long do you want the UPS to power the system for?
30 minutes? I will need to find out what the power draw of all 3 are.
Sentry Lite [Integrated] from Constant Vigil. The Integrated version has a built-in battery.
A bit more pricy than the PowerShield product. Constant Vigil provided me with a customised verion of the Sentry Lite that works with a 6V battery, so if you have specific requirements, they'll probably be able to assist.
https://www.constantvigil.com/battery-backup-products
Chippo:
For the 12v Devices I'm using 2 of these: https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/UPSPSD1100/PowerShield-PSDCMIN1218-Mini-UPS-12VDC-1Amp-18Watt
I don't know how well it would work in practice; but what if you used a solar charge controller?
Instead of solar panel on the input you'd use a 12v power supply. [It would need to be enough for charging a battery and powering the device.]
The rest would be the same, batteries on the correct terminals and the 12v device on load output.
I would assume a solar charge controller would regulate the monitor the batteries and output.
Otherwise a little modification like this may do.
-> I do warn that this example does not have any shutoff for 12v devices if the battery is low or voltage regulation on this 12v output.
If I have entered Youtube BB code above wrong: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ur-D37-juo
Dont do that to UPS's, many of those cheap ones do not have isolation between the battery and the mains, which is why they are a closed unit. Ones with onboard external battery terminals for a seperate chassis are a better bet to use the batteries for that.
James Bond:The smaller, the better - as it's going into a media room with the home theatre.
I have one of these, runs native at 12VDC so just plugs in between the power supply and the devices being powered.
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