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sir1963

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#304509 10-May-2023 13:07
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NEVER seen this before.

 

Yes the tube was at times stable like this, it would then flick on and off, but only 1/2 of it ever lit up.

 

 

 


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mdooher
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  #3074561 10-May-2023 13:55
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Interesting

 

has only one side got the proper phosphor?   or did it used to work? 





Matthew




mdooher
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  #3074563 10-May-2023 13:58
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Sorry just read you post properly.. so it has always done this.. I would say a problem with the phosphor coating..

 

Note if the UV is getting out through the "dark side" it is an extremely bad idea to look directly at it... clear safety specs should be used





Matthew


elpenguino
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  #3074574 10-May-2023 15:26
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Take the tube out and measure resistance between the prongs at each end. I am guessing the heater element is failed at one end.





Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21




mdooher
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  #3074596 10-May-2023 17:10
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Once the arc is established the heaters don't do anything. This tube already has the arc established or else there would be nothing to activate the phosphor.

 

If the problem is what I think it is, I'd love to get hold of this tube to show my electrical students





Matthew


sir1963

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  #3074634 10-May-2023 17:46
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mdooher:

 

Interesting

 

has only one side got the proper phosphor?   or did it used to work? 

 

 

 

 

Used to work.


sir1963

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  #3074639 10-May-2023 17:53
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elpenguino:

 

Take the tube out and measure resistance between the prongs at each end. I am guessing the heater element is failed at one end.

 

 

 

 

Nope, that can not be the problem.

 

The heaters at each end are to make it easier for the lamp to strike. Once this happens then the current through the mercury vapour goes from one end to another, that should men the entire tube works, not 1/2 of it.

 

You used to be able to get resonant systems that ended up putting a few kv acro the two ends without the need for a starter/heater.

 

Once the tube strike there would be somewhere about 90v across it, and IIRC from 40+ years ago they are effective a negative resistance device, ie the more current you put through them the lower the resistance gets,  so they are current controlled via the ballast.

 

The lights are all tied into movement sensors, this starts up just as quickly as the other lights, but only 1/2 of it works.


sir1963

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  #3074641 10-May-2023 17:54
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mdooher:

 

Once the arc is established the heaters don't do anything. This tube already has the arc established or else there would be nothing to activate the phosphor.

 

If the problem is what I think it is, I'd love to get hold of this tube to show my electrical students

 

 

 

 

I shall "Acquire it", where about do you teach ?

 

I am in Palmy.


 
 
 

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mdooher
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  #3074646 10-May-2023 18:09
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sir1963:

 

mdooher:

 

Once the arc is established the heaters don't do anything. This tube already has the arc established or else there would be nothing to activate the phosphor.

 

If the problem is what I think it is, I'd love to get hold of this tube to show my electrical students

 

 

 

 

I shall "Acquire it", where about do you teach ?

 

I am in Palmy.

 

 

Otago Polytechnic...so might be tricky





Matthew


elpenguino
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  #3074660 10-May-2023 18:38
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sir1963:

 

elpenguino:

 

Take the tube out and measure resistance between the prongs at each end. I am guessing the heater element is failed at one end.

 

 

 

 

Nope, that can not be the problem.

 

The heaters at each end are to make it easier for the lamp to strike. Once this happens then the current through the mercury vapour goes from one end to another, that should men the entire tube works, not 1/2 of it.

 

 

The fluoro is a simple device so the problem is probably simple. 'Acquire' it and check the basics and let us know.





Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21


sir1963

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  #3074700 10-May-2023 19:23
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Actually, be interested if they have fitted an LED replacement there and 1/2 of it is DOA.

 

As I say, I must acquire this as I am curious.

 

Did not bother looking too Close today as I had a migraine and have spent the last 2 days tracking an intermittent set of faults in an Ice Maker at work.

 

Effing thing....

 

Tomorrow will be a round of centrifuge repairs...oh yay...


richms
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  #3074770 10-May-2023 20:11
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Blue ends are LED replacements.

 

Work sparky refuses to fit them because it either means modifying the fitting or leaving the ballast in there with the fuse starter on the old magnetic ballast ones.





Richard rich.ms

sir1963

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  #3074781 10-May-2023 20:33
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richms:

 

Blue ends are LED replacements.

 

Work sparky refuses to fit them because it either means modifying the fitting or leaving the ballast in there with the fuse starter on the old magnetic ballast ones.

 

 

 

 

That makes sense.

 

DUH me...bl00dy migraine stops the brain somedays.

 

I had already done this change on an anaerobic chamber that I modified last year , the old system was 110v and it got converted to 230v

 

 


MadEngineer
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  #3074839 10-May-2023 22:38
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I used to know the answer to this, something along the lines of the mercury or other metal or gas going to one end or a miss-balanced faulty ballast which eventually always wears out one end of your tubes, and the ballast fault continues to get worse as a result ….

Ps, always replace your starters when you replace the tubes.




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