Freeview antenna

Forums › Freeview (DVB-T/DVB-S) › Freeview antenna - Manukau

quandum

204 posts

Master Geek

#113137 7-Jan-2013 19:21

Any fellow GZers able to help with antenna issues?

Have a V/U antenna in the roofspace (not on roof)
This is cabled up to a central "splitter / amplifier" and then distributed through to 3 points.
There is only 1 TV connected.

Crystal HD reception with annoying rabbit ears, yet no / very poor reception with the antenna.

Any suggestions please?
Don't want to spend a fortune fixing, but it sucks having no TV!!

I would love to change the world, but they won't give me the source code

#BOFH

DarthKermit

5346 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#741242 7-Jan-2013 19:27

Do you get a poor reception on all 3 of the TV sockets? Try them all and see.

Whatifthespacekeyhadneverbeeninvented?

kiwisat

147 posts

Master Geek

#741262 7-Jan-2013 19:53

The amplifier box needs power. Are you supplying power to it ?

quandum

204 posts

Master Geek

#741264 7-Jan-2013 19:56

DarthKermit: Do you get a poor reception on all 3 of the TV sockets? Try them all and see.

TV3 digital I assume you're asking.

With the rabbit ears = no issues TV3 (DTV)

With the roofspace antenna, no reception on TV3, just TV1 and TV2.

I would love to change the world, but they won't give me the source code

#BOFH

knoydart

904 posts

Ultimate Geek

Trusted

#741291 7-Jan-2013 21:01

quandum:

TV3 digital I assume you're asking.

With the rabbit ears = no issues TV3 (DTV)

With the roofspace antenna, no reception on TV3, just TV1 and TV2.

Freeview terrestrial is delivered only via UHF in multiplexs, so you should get blocks of channels. If you can go from the UHF aerial direct to one tv and that works, then it points to your splitter / amplifier unit. I think the previous poster talking about power might be a very good place to start

quandum

204 posts

Master Geek

#741567 8-Jan-2013 12:49

kiwisat: The amplifier box needs power. Are you supplying power to it ?

Yes it is plugged in, and there is a red LED lit up on the box, so I'm assuming that its working.

(Not being pedantic, but the LED might be on, but box busted...etc)

I would love to change the world, but they won't give me the source code

#BOFH

B1GGLZ

1961 posts

Uber Geek

#741582 8-Jan-2013 13:15

quandum:

Yes it is plugged in, and there is a red LED lit up on the box, so I'm assuming that its working.

(Not being pedantic, but the LED might be on, but box busted...etc)

OK. As you say, doesn't mean the power is getting to the amp.
If you get a perfect signal with rabbit's ears then you probably don't need the amplifier.
Try plugging the TV into each of the 3 outlets in turn and see if any of them produce a suitablesignal. Be aware unused outlets should in theory be terminated with a 50 ohm terminating plug.
If that fails then bypass the splitter/amp and run direct from antenna to the outlet where the TV is plugged in.
If that fails dump the antenna (lots of Freeview device don't like any VHF input) and install a new UHF only antenna with new co-ax (around $40 at Tricky Dicky) direct to the TV.
Then consider putting in a new splitter if you really need to use the other outlets.
You may also consider an amplified indoor panel antenna which looks much nicer than rabbit's ears and could even be located in the roof space.
Also -
How is the antenna mounted in the roofspace?
Is it pointing the right way?
What is the condition of the co-ax (old, corroded etc)?
Are all the connections OK?
What type of splitter/amp is it?
How is the power supply connected to it?
All this info might help us advise provide a positive solution.
Can you provide photos or a diagram?

Spyware

3761 posts

Uber Geek

Lifetime subscriber

#741604 8-Jan-2013 13:33

75 ohm terminator.

Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.

Equinox IT

Cloud spending continues to surge globally, but most organisations haven’t made the changes necessary to maximise the value and cost-efficiency benefits of their cloud investments. Download the whitepaper From Overspend to Advantage now.

B1GGLZ

1961 posts

Uber Geek

#741698 8-Jan-2013 15:24

Spyware: 75 ohm terminator.

Oops. Yes, 75 ohm.
I was thinking in Ham Radio mode, not TV mode.

quandum

204 posts

Master Geek

#742009 9-Jan-2013 00:25

B1GGLZ: OK. As you say, doesn't mean the power is getting to the amp.
If you get a perfect signal with rabbit's ears then you probably don't need the amplifier.
Try plugging the TV into each of the 3 outlets in turn and see if any of them produce a suitablesignal. Be aware unused outlets should in theory be terminated with a 50 ohm terminating plug.
If that fails then bypass the splitter/amp and run direct from antenna to the outlet where the TV is plugged in.
If that fails dump the antenna (lots of Freeview device don't like any VHF input) and install a new UHF only antenna with new co-ax (around $40 at Tricky Dicky) direct to the TV.
Then consider putting in a new splitter if you really need to use the other outlets.
You may also consider an amplified indoor panel antenna which looks much nicer than rabbit's ears and could even be located in the roof space.
Also -
How is the antenna mounted in the roofspace?
Is it pointing the right way?
What is the condition of the co-ax (old, corroded etc)?
Are all the connections OK?
What type of splitter/amp is it?
How is the power supply connected to it?
All this info might help us advise provide a positive solution.
Can you provide photos or a diagram?

Wow, firstly, thanks for the comprehensive response.

Edit : 75 ohm, not 50ohm terminator - currently not present - will see if I can get this sorted.
I'm thinking the bypass is going to be easier to try first. If that works, doubt I'll need to the other sockets (only have the 1 telly).

Afaik, the antenna in the roofspace is just "lying" there (not sure who/how/why anyone would do that instead of a clean mount...anyway..)
Coax is about 10+years old at best guesstimate.

I'll try and head into the roofspace and grab photos.
The amp is easier to take pics of thankfully as it sits in a cupboard.
Power is supplied via a standard power socket / plug. Switch off = power off.

Are all the connections ok - I'm a bit of a n00b with TV stuff, so I'm assuming connections are ok - they are plugged in to the amp, but no idea if shorting etc etc.

Do you think I could use a multimeter to test any of the connections - what reading expected if so?

I would love to change the world, but they won't give me the source code

#BOFH

B1GGLZ

1961 posts

Uber Geek

#742049 9-Jan-2013 08:32

quandum:

Wow, firstly, thanks for the comprehensive response.

Edit : 75 ohm, not 50ohm terminator - currently not present - will see if I can get this sorted.
I'm thinking the bypass is going to be easier to try first. If that works, doubt I'll need to the other sockets (only have the 1 telly).

Afaik, the antenna in the roofspace is just "lying" there (not sure who/how/why anyone would do that instead of a clean mount...anyway..)
Coax is about 10+years old at best guesstimate.

Do you think I could use a multimeter to test any of the connections - what reading expected if so?

Suggest try the bypass first which is the easiest and cheapest option.
However, given the age of the antenna and co-ax I'd suggest best option is to head off to Dick Smith and grab their UHF antenna pack fo $50. It includes everything needed for installing. Preferably install on the outside of the house but could also be installed in the roof space. Run the single co-ax direct to the TV. That should solve the problem. No need then for terminators which are not essential but might help. Dump the old antenna and amp. Multimeter could be used but you need to know what you are doing.
An antenna just "lying there" is not the best sort of install. It should be mounted clear of any structure. Any nearby metal (nails, reinforcing. bracing, etc) can affect reception.

B1GGLZ

1961 posts

Uber Geek

#742051 9-Jan-2013 08:36

One of these is also an option.
http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/digital-terrestrial/terrestrial-aerials-c-11/flat-panel-aerials.html
Make sure you can return it for refund if it doesnt work though.
Nothing beats and external UHF antenna installation.

quandum

204 posts

Master Geek

#750442 24-Jan-2013 21:55

B1GGLZ:
quandum:

Wow, firstly, thanks for the comprehensive response.

Edit : 75 ohm, not 50ohm terminator - currently not present - will see if I can get this sorted.
I'm thinking the bypass is going to be easier to try first. If that works, doubt I'll need to the other sockets (only have the 1 telly).

Afaik, the antenna in the roofspace is just "lying" there (not sure who/how/why anyone would do that instead of a clean mount...anyway..)
Coax is about 10+years old at best guesstimate.

Do you think I could use a multimeter to test any of the connections - what reading expected if so?

Suggest try the bypass first which is the easiest and cheapest option.
However, given the age of the antenna and co-ax I'd suggest best option is to head off to Dick Smith and grab their UHF antenna pack fo $50. It includes everything needed for installing. Preferably install on the outside of the house but could also be installed in the roof space. Run the single co-ax direct to the TV. That should solve the problem. No need then for terminators which are not essential but might help. Dump the old antenna and amp. Multimeter could be used but you need to know what you are doing.
An antenna just "lying there" is not the best sort of install. It should be mounted clear of any structure. Any nearby metal (nails, reinforcing. bracing, etc) can affect reception.

Apologies for the late reply!
And thank you for your help guys....

Crystal picture from socket 2. and with terminators.

Still don't quite understand how the terminators work....but I am assuming its like a COAX terminator used on the old COAX cable ethernets..

I would love to change the world, but they won't give me the source code

#BOFH