Freeview HD Wiring Questions

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Oubadah

676 posts

Ultimate Geek

#74804 7-Jan-2011 17:09

I need some advice before I attempt to wire the house for Freeview HD:

1) What standard/category of cabling do I need? I know the coax has become beefier over the years... I have some old stuff that was good for VHF analogue TV, but I have a feeling that's not going to cut it.

2) How many runs should I make to each room? (With a view to futureproofing) Is it MySky that requires two runs?? - Perhaps Freeview will need more than one connection in the future...

3) What kind of splitter do I need? Will this work: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/satellite-terrestrial-splitter-p-167.html Will I need a masthead amplifier too?

4) where is a good source for TV wallplates? I need plates with at least two sockets, or maybe more... (see question 2) EDIT: These should do: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/series-double-socket-p-470.html

Thanks.

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#425027 7-Jan-2011 18:07

Cable wise you will need to go for RG6 coax cable.
http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/3ghz-freeview-terrestrial-cable-p-479.html

You will also need to terminate every end with F-type connectors
http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/type-connector-cmp6ors-linear-comp-crimp-type-p-380.html
or
http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/type-connector-filled-crimp-type-p-45.html

This means that you will need to buy the f-type connector crimping tool
http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/type-linear-compression-tool-p-382.html
or
http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/type-crimping-tool-p-81.html
depending on what connector type you go for.

And you will definitely need the rotary cable stripper
http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/rotary-cable-stripper-p-83.html

sbiddle

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Biddle Corp

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#425029 7-Jan-2011 18:16

Oubadah: I need some advice before I attempt to wire the house for Freeview HD:

1) What standard/category of cabling do I need? I know the coax has become beefier over the years... I have some old stuff that was good for VHF analogue TV, but I have a feeling that's not going to cut it.

2) How many runs should I make to each room? (With a view to futureproofing) Is it MySky that requires two runs?? - Perhaps Freeview will need more than one connection in the future...

3) What kind of splitter do I need? Will this work: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/satellite-terrestrial-splitter-p-167.html Will I need a masthead amplifier too?

4) where is a good source for TV wallplates? I need plates with at least two sockets, or maybe more... (see question 2) EDIT: These should do: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/series-double-socket-p-470.html

Thanks.

You should be using RG6 coax. This has been pretty much the standard for the last ~15 years for professional installers. I have no idea what your current cable is but I'd only recommend RG6, quad shielded if you live in a very RF noisy environment or have exceptionally long runs.

The number of jacks is entirely up to you. A browse through the TCF home wiring guidelines might provide some insight into the recommendations for any modern home http://www.tcf.org.nz/content/dc07abcd-21f8-4288-b55b-6f861bdd4d02.html Freeview|HD will only ever require a single cable run.

Any F type splitter will work fine. You should only be using F connections for all wiring including wall jackpoints. The only time you should use Belling Lee connectors is for a cable run from the faceplate to the TV/STB. You should also only buy a splitter for the size you need. For wallplates I only ever use PDL faceplates and simply clip the F type inserts into this.

Oubadah

676 posts

Ultimate Geek

#425050 7-Jan-2011 20:08

So does a jack crimp onto the in wall cable and then plug into the back of the wall plate? The cable doesn't crimp directly onto the wall plate?

Also, Cables Direct has better value RG6, so I might get it from them: http://www.cablesdirect.co.nz/catalog/search?quickfind_needle=rg6 (second down on that page). My runs will be relatively short, so I don't think I need the extra heavy shield stuff.

dontpanic42

1574 posts

Uber Geek

#425060 7-Jan-2011 20:33

Oubadah: So does a jack crimp onto the in wall cable and then plug into the back of the wall plate? The cable doesn't crimp directly onto the wall plate?

Correct. All ends of RG6 cable are terminated with an f-connector. The f-connector then connects to the different ends as required.
Be it a wall plate TV socket, or a Belling lee male/female end.
That's the beauty of the f-connector. Once it is terminated you can just screw whatever end you want onto it.

Oubadah

676 posts

Ultimate Geek

#426958 13-Jan-2011 21:31

Hex crimp vs Linear Compression.

For the F-Type connectors, which is better - they're priced the same...

Also, if I get this masthead amp: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/product_info.php?products_id=485{28}139

How is it powered? On the page there is option for two PSUs:
- 17.5V AC 100mA PSU
- 14V DC 150mA PSU

Which is better? How do they attach to the amp?

jjnz1

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#426961 13-Jan-2011 21:49

sbiddle:

You should be using RG6 coax. This has been pretty much the standard for the last ~15 years for professional installers. I have no idea what your current cable is but I'd only recommend RG6, quad shielded if you live in a very RF noisy environment or have exceptionally long runs.

For Freeview HD, Quad shield should not be required for most domestic installs. And your cable runs should not exceed 40 metres in a new installation and if they do, redesign your installation.

Sbiddle, what environments have you needed to use quad shield?

I know that TelstraClear only specs TriShield, and Sky only specs dual. Are you talking about commercial-residential?

Nety

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#426969 13-Jan-2011 22:13

Oubadah: Hex crimp vs Linear Compression.

For the F-Type connectors, which is better - they're priced the same...

I have a Hex crimper and it seems to be fine. I am not sure if one is better then the other for me the crimps were more easily available for Hex so that is why I went that way.

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dontpanic42

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#426982 14-Jan-2011 00:14

Oubadah: Hex crimp vs Linear Compression.
For the F-Type connectors, which is better - they're priced the same...

I have used both of the F-types connectors and to be honest, I don't really know which would be better than the other.

Some observations from my use:
The linear compression tool seems to be a bit trickier to use than the hex tool. i.e. sometimes the f connector slips out of the crimper tool when pressure is applied at just the wrong angle.
However if the f connector is going to be used in a wet area, the PPC linear compression connector seems like it might have a better water-proof seal compared to the Hex connector. Although, the hex connector does specify that it is gel filled, which I assume is for waterproofing as well.

Also, if I get this masthead amp: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/product_info.php?products_id=485{28}139

How is it powered? On the page there is option for two PSUs:
- 17.5V AC 100mA PSU
- 14V DC 150mA PSU

Which is better? How do they attach to the amp?

Again, I'm not really sure of the difference between the two. I have used both PSU types for Freeview HD and they seemed to perform pretty equally.

My guess would be that the higher voltage AC one would be more suited to a set-up with quite a lot of cable in the run.

They just plug in between the wall outlet and your Freeview HD TV/Receiver.

Do you have any way of testing your current Freeview reception status?
The reason I say is that you may not even need a masthead amplifier if your Freeview reception is quite strong. Can you currently get analogue Prime, and if so, is the picture any good?

Remember, you can always put a masthead amplifier in later if it is needed.

One thing to note is if the splitter that you will eventually buy has power pass on only 1 port, or all of the ports.
The power pass port is a port on the splitter that allows the power from the power injector to flow up to the masthead amplifier.
For example, on the 8-way splitter that you linked on your original post, the product description tends to suggest that there may be only one "out" port that is set up to allow the power from the injector up to the masthead amplifier. All you would have to do is remember which room is connected to the power-pass port and plug the power injector into the aerial outlet in that room.

Wall outlets:
You may be able to get a good price from your local electrical wholesale supplier. Just make sure you get PDL 600 series gear. Anything else is just not worth your time.
You may also want to consider getting some "flush boxes" that you can mount the wall plates onto.

Hopefully I haven't confused you too much.

Oubadah

676 posts

Ultimate Geek

#426988 14-Jan-2011 00:45

No, that's great thanks.

Deev8

481 posts

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#427234 14-Jan-2011 18:01

Oubadah: if I get this masthead amp ... How is it powered? On the page there is option for two PSUs ... How do they attach to the amp?

The power supplies "inject" power into the coax, and the masthead amp extracts power from the coax. The power supply can be connected to the coax cable anywhere between the masthead amp and your TV, but if you use any splitters betwwen the power supply and the masthead amp you have to be certain that the splitter will "pass power".

Edit: I see thatdontpanic42 already covered that point!

Jaxson

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#427870 17-Jan-2011 09:35

dontpanic42: you may not even need a masthead amplifier if your Freeview reception is quite strong.

+1

Check without first. Typically you need an amplifier if you have a lot of outlets or longer cable runs. When I moved into my new house there was a masthead amplifier installed. I rewired the aerial direct to the TV and PVR in the lounge only, cleaned up the aerial connections and got 100% signal strength without the amplifier even connected. It got sold on trademe shortly afterwards.

You need to test with the amplifer removed, not left inline and simply unpowered.

Worth testing if nothing else.

richms

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#428029 17-Jan-2011 14:04

Freeview will work on almost no signal. I have the one in the shed working on about 30cm of wire stuffed in the antenna socket on it because I was too lazy to run a cable to it. That same thing will get a black and white flickering outline of prime and the odd flicker of colour on maori.

Richard rich.ms

Oubadah

676 posts

Ultimate Geek

#428681 19-Jan-2011 08:28

So i got this hex crimp tool: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/type-crimping-tool-p-81.html

It has two different sized crimping jaws, and I've been using the larger one for these f-type plugs: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/type-connector-filled-crimp-type-p-45.html

I hope that's right, because I can't see it specified what size to use anywhere...

jjnz1

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#428701 19-Jan-2011 09:19

Oubadah: So i got this hex crimp tool: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/type-crimping-tool-p-81.html

It has two different sized crimping jaws, and I've been using the larger one for these f-type plugs: http://www.freeviewshop.co.nz/type-connector-filled-crimp-type-p-45.html

I hope that's right, because I can't see it specified what size to use anywhere...

Yes the back hole is correct for RG6

Oubadah

676 posts

Ultimate Geek

#428866 19-Jan-2011 15:54

Assuming I end up using a masthead amp, I have a question about the placement of the power supply/injector:

[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/feozI.jpg[/IMG]

The instructions seem to expect you to install it at 'A', between a TV and wall plate. That's a bit messy, and I was thinking would I be able to connect it almost directly to the splitter at 'B'? There shouldn't be any logical reason why not, but I thought I'd check...

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