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chippy

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#84666 4-Jun-2011 18:45
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so, we have freeview now, running off a dish; dish, wire, decoder, TV = all good  Now we want to put freeview in another room in the same house, so thought we could go; dish, wire, splitter, 1st decoder, and then wire to 2nd decoder, etc. But as soon as we put the splitter in, we lose signal in the 1st TV - any idea why?

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michaelt
425 posts

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  #477805 4-Jun-2011 18:50
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Does the second decoder work?

If so, does the first decoder work while the second one's working?

If it does, then your problem is that the splitter is only passing power from the second port. Your satellite dish requires power from the decoder to operate, and if your splitter isn't passing that power onto the dish it won't operate.

If this is the problem, then the easiest solution is just to get a splitter with all ports power-pass.



mm1352000
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  #477809 4-Jun-2011 18:54
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Hi

LNBs (the thing on the satellite dish that the cable plugs into) require power to operate. The power is supplied through the cable by the set top box. If you're plugging in a splitter that doesn't allow that power to get through then the LNB won't be able to deliver signal to the STB. Look for the output with the "power-pass" label and plug that into the STB, or buy another splitter that is "all ports power-pass". With your current splitter (which I'm guessing only has one power-pass output) you'll need to keep the STB connected to that output on all the time so that both STBs can work...

mm

[Edit: looks like Michael beat me to it. Laughing]

chippy

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  #477812 4-Jun-2011 19:01
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dont know about the 2nd decoder yet, as kinda quit when it stopped the 1st decoder working, as we werent sure what was wrong, and didnt want to scrummage around under the house in this hideous weather if the whole thing was wrong! but, thank you so much for the advice!  we are using a T splitter from The Warehouse - might that sound like the right thing?



Spyware
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  #477816 4-Jun-2011 19:12
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Tell us what is written on splitter. Has to be able to split 950 to 2150 MHz L band and pass power. All connectors should be F type and you should crimp any terminations. Push on connectors are NOT acceptable.




Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.


chippy

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  #477817 4-Jun-2011 19:16
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CUSTOM, TV aerial splitter coax 2 way. Screened metal construction, coax plug to Two Coax Sockets. 5-1000Mhz

 

splits a 75ohm Coax, signal to feed two devices, metal.

 

It is the push in type.  That is all the words that are on the box. On the actual splitter it says 2 way splitter, 0-1000MHz BZT G687 653D.

 

we are TOTALLY IT thick! :-) have we got the wrong thing you reckon?

Spyware
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  #477821 4-Jun-2011 19:31
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That is are splitter for terrestrial (with Belling Lee sockets most likely). Totally useless for satellite.

Your RG6 runs have to be cut and terminated with F type plugs using a crimping tool and you must use a suitable splitter that operates over L band.




Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.


chippy

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  #477823 4-Jun-2011 19:38
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thank you so much! cearly the man in the warehouse who sold us the splitter doesnt know one end of a TV from the other! just one more question; does it matter where we put the splitter in the whole set-up? i.e. do we need to split next to the dish, or can we run approx 6m of coax cable, and then put the splitter there(which is in an easy part of the roof space to access)

AND, is the RG6 you spoke of, coax cable? we are using coax cable, is that right?

 
 
 

Move to New Zealand's best fibre broadband service (affiliate link). Free setup code: R587125ERQ6VE. Note that to use Quic Broadband you must be comfortable with configuring your own router.
Spyware
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  #477825 4-Jun-2011 19:50
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RG 6 is typically the coaxial cable type used for satellite runs. If you bought the coax from The Warehouse you may have RG 59 which is not something I would use, also you need suitable F type connectors and F types for RG 6 are not suitable for RG 59 as the cable is a smaller diameter. Cable run can be split anywhere.




Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.


chippy

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  #477829 4-Jun-2011 19:58
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so it seems we have managed to purchase a complete set of useless stuff, that is all wrong!!!!!!!  I dont know what to say, except THANK YOU SO MUCH for all your help. I have never used this site before, and to be honest, am totally blown away by how wonderful and helpful you (and the other couple of people) have been. It is really kind of you to share your knowledge.

 

I will send husband back out to shops tomorrow to (hopefully) return all useless TV gear we have spent over $60 on, and (hopefully) punch useless shopkeepers for insisting it was exactly what we wanted, and to actually purchase what we need, and with any luck, we will be watching more than static TV1 tomorrow night Wink

xarqi
727 posts

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  #477832 4-Jun-2011 20:00
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It doesn't matter where the splitter goes, apart from ease of installation and reduction in total cable length for the sake of economy.

All RG6 is coaxial cable, but not all coaxial cable is RG6. Another type, RG59, is often used for analogue TV and is not suitable for satellite installations. There are also different qualities of RG6 cable.

I'm no expert, but I've used compression crimped F connectors only on the joins exposed to the weather, and screw-on ones internally without any apparent problem.

Also, the use of a splitter is OK if you only intend to access the Freeview services. If you want to access the Australian services (SBS and Ch9), which use vertical and not horizontal polarisation, you should use a dual LNB and multiswitch, not a splitter, or one of your locations will not be able to receive them if the other is receiving a Freeview one.

Spyware
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  #477833 4-Jun-2011 20:04
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An F Type connector. Suitable splitter. RG6 coax.




Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.


richms
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  #477843 4-Jun-2011 20:51
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Screw on plugs are fine inside where they are dry and not getting moved all the time. Dont get crimp ones when you have no crimp tool for it.

Asking for advise on freeview at the warehouse is a bit like asking your drug dealer for a second opinion on your xrays ;)




Richard rich.ms

Rikkitic
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  #478891 8-Jun-2011 11:00
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While we're on the subject, what about inserting a splitter AFTER the STB? A friend has asked me about this. Her setup is dish feed and STB at one end of house with RF output via coax to TV at the other. Originally the family was walking back and forth to change channels! I couldn't stand this so got them a remote extender. Now they want to put a second TV in the bedroom. My thought is to use a splitter on the RF output of the STB and give them a second transmitter for the extender.




Plesse igmore amd axxept applogies in adbance fir anu typos

 


 


CYaBro
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  #478897 8-Jun-2011 11:22
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I would also check the original STB as it may have an F-connect output / LNB output so you may not need a splitter at all as you could just run the 2nd STB from that output.




Opinions are my own and not the views of my employer.


kiwirock
685 posts

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  #478928 8-Jun-2011 12:46
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I hope using the first splitter you were advised to use, didn't fry the LNB power output on the satellite receiver.

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