Sleepout renovations - thoughts, suggestions, tips

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Sleepout renovations - thoughts, suggestions, tips

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1705 posts

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#2783532 24-Sep-2021 12:44

Lizard1977:
blackjack17:

I would cut the wire tie down and screw the base plate in with something like this.

And get the moisture sorted first.

I like that idea but I can't see what the tie down is actually doing. I assumed it was just embedded in the concrete and then wrapped around the timber and held in place with the staples. I can't see any base plate to screw into unless it's under the frame.

The wire was likely embedded into the concrete when wet. Cut it off at the surface and then screw through the timber base plate and then through the concrete. Then insert the base plate screws (assuming you don't have a ramset gun)

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thenine

37 posts

Geek

#2783557 24-Sep-2021 13:06

Agree, use a planer for the nogs and anchor bolts for the wire. You're probably going to struggle to get gib screws through that nail plate. If you're dodgy like me, just cut the plate and get the nail gun out.

BiffTannen

11 posts

Geek

#2783910 24-Sep-2021 20:23

Don't forget to tell your insurance company you have a sleepout and make sure its included within your home rebuild cost.

Bung

6477 posts

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#2783929 24-Sep-2021 21:40

Lizard1977:
I rang Bunnings Tremaine Ave today and they said the stock on their website was set aside for another customer and they had no more available. They reckoned it would be about 3 weeks before they would have stock.

Getting desperate, I scoured Google for another place that had it in stock. A place called Colorex claim to have stock and will ship. A 20kg bag would be $52 incl. GST and shipping. Looks like that's my only choice for now. But even they don't have any of the top coat products.

Have you included Placemakers in your search? I was in their Levin branch today and they had Tradeset 5 &20kg bags on shelf. Gib is part of the Fletchers empire after all.

Lizard1977

2060 posts

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#2783934 24-Sep-2021 21:56

I managed to get some today, actually. Was in Mitre10 to get some supplies and they had a whole pallet of Tradeset, so picked up a 20kg sack. No Plus 4 though, but at least we'll be able to get started once the gib goes up. We still have a few weeks, so fingers crossed the Plus 4 comes back in stock.

Lizard1977

2060 posts

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#2788368 2-Oct-2021 18:44

We started the gib today. Going very slowly, checking carefully and measuring. One thing we noticed, though, is around the window frames. There is a groove around the frame which appears purpose-built for gib to slide into (10mm). However both window frames are near corners (one right in the corner, the other about 20cm away) and it makes me wonder what the best approach would be. Also, the groove in the window frame is not flush with the timber framing. It varies from about 2mm at the bottom to about 6mm at the top. What would be the best approach here? Should we pack out the frame to make it flush with the groove? I suspect not, as we would end up chasing that problem all around the frame, and put it at odds with the rest of the framing. My inclination is to butt the gib up against the lip of the window frame (ignoring the groove), and then either putting some filler into the groove, or beading around the outside of the window frame to conceal the join with the gib. But there's probably a third way that is much better - any suggestions?

Photo 1 - showing sample of gib abutting the window frame, not in the groove.

Photo 2 - sample of gib in the groove, but the gap behind the gib to the timber frame is between 2mm at the bottom of the window frame and 6mm at the top.

Bung

6477 posts

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#2788385 2-Oct-2021 19:22

Have you downloaded the Gib Site Guide? It has all their recommended methods for fixing and finishing Gib. Grooves around windows and doors are covered on page 43 of 2018 version.

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Fred99

13684 posts

Uber Geek

#2788388 2-Oct-2021 19:32

I think I'd probably try to pack that stud out so that the gib can be slotted in to the frame and fastened in place.

You'll never see 5mm deflection over the (450mm?) distance to the next stud unless you put something perfectly square like a desk in that corner - but you certainly will see 5mm uneven edge on the frame if you don't do it that way.

Lizard1977

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#2788390 2-Oct-2021 19:38

Bung: Have you downloaded the Gib Site Guide? It has all their recommended methods for fixing and finishing Gib. Grooves around windows and doors are covered on page 43 of 2018 version.

I just took a look at the section you referred. Helpfully, it says this: "Installation of grooved jambs is subject to workmanship skills. Unless the jambs are correctly set up and installed, with a 1–2mm clearance for the plasterboard, it is difficult to install the board effectively." Completely unsurprising to me, whoever put in the window frames didn't display great workmanship and so the groove is not aligned to the substrate as the Gib Guide recommends. Unfortunately, there's not a lot of advice (that I can see) for dealing with poorly installed grooved jambs.

It recommends architraves for finishing around doors and windows. So I wonder if that is the best method here - ignore the grooved jamb, just butt it up against the frame, fix it to the substrate and then put architrave around the frame to finish the joint.

Lizard1977

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#2788391 2-Oct-2021 19:40

Fred99:

I think I'd probably try to pack that stud out so that the gib can be slotted in to the frame and fastened in place.

You'll never see 5mm deflection over the (450mm?) distance to the next stud unless you put something perfectly square like a desk in that corner - but you certainly will see 5mm uneven edge on the frame if you don't do it that way.

If it was just in one small area that might work, but it's all around the window frame - about 6mm out at the top, and about 2mm at the bottom; a bit like it's leaning into the room ever so slightly.

itxtme

2102 posts

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#2788428 2-Oct-2021 23:10

Switch to arcitraves, problem sorted

Fred99

13684 posts

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#2788460 3-Oct-2021 08:46

Lizard1977:

Fred99:

I think I'd probably try to pack that stud out so that the gib can be slotted in to the frame and fastened in place.

You'll never see 5mm deflection over the (450mm?) distance to the next stud unless you put something perfectly square like a desk in that corner - but you certainly will see 5mm uneven edge on the frame if you don't do it that way.

If it was just in one small area that might work, but it's all around the window frame - about 6mm out at the top, and about 2mm at the bottom; a bit like it's leaning into the room ever so slightly.

I can't see how architraves solve the issue that the window frame isn't plumb with the wall framing and by design, the edge of the frame sits proud of where the gib is going to be. Normally an architrave would be put over the edge of the frame which would be more or less flush with the surface of the gib. But you're not going to be able to fit a standard architrave over the inside edge of that window frame.

IMO you've got a couple of practical options - re-align the window so it's flush with the framing, or pack out the framing to support the gib flush with the slot in the window frame. In older houses (ie pre "laserframe" prefabricated framing) it's normal for things to be not quite square and flush. It might be a reasonably nasty job to cut tapered strips of packing, but the alternative of re-aligning the window might be far worse, depending on detailing of the exterior cladding to the outside of the frame etc. Cutting tapered battens to do it properly might be nasty, but you've probably got a worse can of worms with other options.

itxtme

2102 posts

Uber Geek

#2788803 3-Oct-2021 23:54

Fred99:

I can't see how architraves solve the issue that the window frame isn't plumb with the wall framing and by design, the edge of the frame sits proud of where the gib is going to be. Normally an architrave would be put over the edge of the frame which would be more or less flush with the surface of the gib. But you're not going to be able to fit a standard architrave over the inside edge of that window frame.

Obviously they would need to trim the reveals to match the plasterboard, but the finish will be faster and easier than trying to make the plasterboard match a variation. Another option which I have seen that looks decent is arcitrave and then then a bead butted up next to the arcitrave out to the same depth. Personally I would run the circular saw down the reveal and be done in 2 minutes rather than fudge with DPC for hours, espically given the finish quality of the windows in question.

Fred99

13684 posts

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#2788817 4-Oct-2021 07:27

itxtme:

Fred99:

I can't see how architraves solve the issue that the window frame isn't plumb with the wall framing and by design, the edge of the frame sits proud of where the gib is going to be. Normally an architrave would be put over the edge of the frame which would be more or less flush with the surface of the gib. But you're not going to be able to fit a standard architrave over the inside edge of that window frame.

Obviously they would need to trim the reveals to match the plasterboard, but the finish will be faster and easier than trying to make the plasterboard match a variation. Another option which I have seen that looks decent is arcitrave and then then a bead butted up next to the arcitrave out to the same depth. Personally I would run the circular saw down the reveal and be done in 2 minutes rather than fudge with DPC for hours, espically given the finish quality of the windows in question.

This is why details in home handyman work usually stands out like dog's balls. I know it's "only" a sleepout, but still...

itxtme

2102 posts

Uber Geek

#2789453 4-Oct-2021 22:28

Fred99:

This is why details in home handyman work usually stands out like dog's balls. I know it's "only" a sleepout, but still...

You must be joking, this will literally hide 99% of the reveal edge and can be done to be perfectly tidy and finished to a high standard. Its also 99% easier to do than removing the window.

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