Geekzone: technology news, blogs, forums
Guest
Welcome Guest.
You haven't logged in yet. If you don't have an account you can register now.


View this topic in a long page with up to 500 replies per page Create new topic
1 | ... | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 
stuzzo
534 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #799119 14-Apr-2013 11:36
Send private message

Elpie:
stuzzo: 
The only circumstance where they might be likely to decline a wall insulation request would be something like brick veneer where the insulation would be likely to interfere with the drainage plain. In other cases, where you make an alteration you are generally required to bring the area up to current standards which might require adding building paper or other moisture barrier.


That had been my assumption before I was turned down. I wasn't expecting to have the application declined on a 1927 timber house, but it was. 


From what I gather, mainly from the Dept of Building and Housing guidance Doc on the subject that you quoted from earlier , the local authorities have discretion over whether a building consent for retrofit wall insulation is required or not so it may come down to the local opinions on the issue and also the climate in that area.

From my experience weatherboards rot because of either bulk water infiltration or defects in the outer surface that absorb moisture and decay over time. Insulation is unlikely to exacerbate either of these scenarios.

In my area a consent wasn't required but I was doing the work from the outside ie removing weatherboards, adding ply and building paper and a rainscreen in some areas, then reinstating or replacing weatherboards as appropriate. They were more interested, consent wise, if the work was done from the inside which I presume was related to the need to add a moisture barrier.



froob
692 posts

Ultimate Geek

Lifetime subscriber

  #799354 14-Apr-2013 22:46
Send private message

stuzzo:
Elpie:
stuzzo: 
The only circumstance where they might be likely to decline a wall insulation request would be something like brick veneer where the insulation would be likely to interfere with the drainage plain. In other cases, where you make an alteration you are generally required to bring the area up to current standards which might require adding building paper or other moisture barrier.


That had been my assumption before I was turned down. I wasn't expecting to have the application declined on a 1927 timber house, but it was. 


From what I gather, mainly from the Dept of Building and Housing guidance Doc on the subject that you quoted from earlier , the local authorities have discretion over whether a building consent for retrofit wall insulation is required or not so it may come down to the local opinions on the issue and also the climate in that area.

From my experience weatherboards rot because of either bulk water infiltration or defects in the outer surface that absorb moisture and decay over time. Insulation is unlikely to exacerbate either of these scenarios.

In my area a consent wasn't required but I was doing the work from the outside ie removing weatherboards, adding ply and building paper and a rainscreen in some areas, then reinstating or replacing weatherboards as appropriate. They were more interested, consent wise, if the work was done from the inside which I presume was related to the need to add a moisture barrier.


That's right, insulating an exterior wall will require building consent, unless the local authority has granted an exemption under Schedule 1(k) of the Building Act. I understand they can grant an exemption both in specific cases, and generally, such as Christchurch City Council's exemptions put in place to help with the earthquake rebuild. 

I'm no expert on this, but my understanding is that exterior wall insulation was one of the factors contributing to the leaky building crisis. The issue is that if water gets through the cladding, it can get absorbed by the insulation and, if it isn't able to dry, this can rot the wall framing. Councils may be nervous about granting consents for exterior insulation in older houses, because these houses generally do not have a cavity under the cladding, have untreated framing, and may not have building paper. I would expect that most of these retrofits will be done from the inside and, as you've pointed out, it is obviously much more difficult to effectively add building paper that way. In contrast, the multiple lines of defence created by your weatherboard / ply / building paper combination should be much lower risk.

Having said that, if the cladding is brick veneer (which does usually have a cavity between the cladding and framing) or something like bevelback weatherboards (which have some gaps between the cladding and framing allowing air circulation) then the local authority may be more inclined to grant the consent. The situation where they are likely to decline is where the building has direct fixed monolithic cladding, which tends to leak if not carefully maintained, and doesn't allow a lot of air flow for drying.






psychrn
1603 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified
Trusted

  #801255 18-Apr-2013 00:16
Send private message

Coming into the convo a bit late here but our landlord has been really good.
We moved in here last October. 1940-50 house. Already had some insulation in it but they decided to get quotes and put more in as they acknowledged that it was a "cold" house.
Last week Premium insulation came along and put more insulation in both the ceiling and floor.
I noted some of the floor packaging and it was glass wool with an R value of 3.9.
Yes there is even a scientific basis on insulation look up Google on R values for insulation.
We also went round the house with the landlords permission and checked all window and door seals and purchased some strips and door seals for reimbursement by the landlord. Somehow I think she wants to keep us !!

As yet havnt noticed a lot of difference as its still quite warm here in Hamilton




GZMCC. Lenovo Yoga C640. 8 gb Ram and 256Gb SSD, Cam Am Spyder 2016 F3 LTD.  GoPro 5 Black, Samsung S22 Ultra, Huawei Watch D. Samsung S6 Lite Tablet, Amateur Radio Callsign ZL1CJH


1 | ... | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 
View this topic in a long page with up to 500 replies per page Create new topic





News and reviews »

Air New Zealand Starts AI adoption with OpenAI
Posted 24-Jul-2025 16:00


eero Pro 7 Review
Posted 23-Jul-2025 12:07


BeeStation Plus Review
Posted 21-Jul-2025 14:21


eero Unveils New Wi-Fi 7 Products in New Zealand
Posted 21-Jul-2025 00:01


WiZ Introduces HDMI Sync Box and other Light Devices
Posted 20-Jul-2025 17:32


RedShield Enhances DDoS and Bot Attack Protection
Posted 20-Jul-2025 17:26


Seagate Ships 30TB Drives
Posted 17-Jul-2025 11:24


Oclean AirPump A10 Water Flosser Review
Posted 13-Jul-2025 11:05


Samsung Galaxy Z Fold7: Raising the Bar for Smartphones
Posted 10-Jul-2025 02:01


Samsung Galaxy Z Flip7 Brings New Edge-To-Edge FlexWindow
Posted 10-Jul-2025 02:01


Epson Launches New AM-C550Z WorkForce Enterprise printer
Posted 9-Jul-2025 18:22


Samsung Releases Smart Monitor M9
Posted 9-Jul-2025 17:46


Nearly Half of Older Kiwis Still Write their Passwords on Paper
Posted 9-Jul-2025 08:42


D-Link 4G+ Cat6 Wi-Fi 6 DWR-933M Mobile Hotspot Review
Posted 1-Jul-2025 11:34


Oppo A5 Series Launches With New Levels of Durability
Posted 30-Jun-2025 10:15









Geekzone Live »

Try automatic live updates from Geekzone directly in your browser, without refreshing the page, with Geekzone Live now.



Are you subscribed to our RSS feed? You can download the latest headlines and summaries from our stories directly to your computer or smartphone by using a feed reader.