Replacing Halogen/LED Transformer

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Replacing Halogen/LED Transformer - Sparkie or DIY?

Antzzz

190 posts

Master Geek

#217872 16-Jul-2017 15:25

Hi all, does anyone happen to know if replacing a lighting transformer falls into the work you can legally do as DIY, or does it need a registered Electrician to do it? Had a look at the info on the EnergySafety site (link to nice PDF that gives a good summary) and it refers to quite a few things that can be DIY'd, but no reference to transformer replacement.

To be specific this is replacing the common 230 - 12V transformers that power the bazillion MR16 fittings in my house - a few are starting to die, and the transformers for a couple of fittings don't play nice with LEDs...

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#1825876 20-Jul-2017 13:38

AFAIR about the only mains wiring you are allowed to do is wire up a 3 pin plug.

You can very easily replace the LED transformer yourself but not sure if you may do it yourself!

Just unscrew the plastic cover to expose the screw terminals and disconnect the old one and reconnect the new one. Obviously the mains needs to be isolated from that circuit at the main board and then tested with a voltage tester first.

Suckerpunch

124 posts

Master Geek

#1825885 20-Jul-2017 13:53

Check this site out...

https://www.consumer.org.nz/articles/diy-or-tradespeople#article-diy-electrical-work

I'm a member of Consumer and contacted them about this same question (I wanted to DIY the transformer change).

They confirmed you can DIY it (if you own and live in).

I still don't know if this applies to the lights where the packaging states, must be installed by a licensed electrician.

wellygary

8312 posts

Uber Geek

#1825901 20-Jul-2017 14:17

Suckerpunch:

I still don't know if this applies to the lights where the packaging states, must be installed by a licensed electrician.

That packaging is likely intended for Australian Audiences, which have much stricter wiring rules than ours,

Which is why you will occasionally find LED downlight sets with a 3 point plug on them , (I've heard it recommended that each light have a 3 point plug in the ceiling space so its legal for the homeowner to install/change LED downlights,- but that might be apocryphal)

tripper1000

1617 posts

Uber Geek

#1825906 20-Jul-2017 14:22

The official NZECP rules can be found here.

Transformers and not specifically mentioned, however section 47(1)a(iii) allows a home owner to replace "Permanent connection units" in addition to various outlets, thermostats, elements and light fittings.

MikeAqua

7773 posts

Uber Geek

#1825911 20-Jul-2017 14:31

Not notwithstanding regulations, I would still get a professional for an apartment or other (semi)-attached dwelling

Mike

richms

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#1825913 20-Jul-2017 14:34

The plugs are used mostly now because they have finally told sparkys off for leaving single insulated cable hanging out of the transformers and for not passing the earth thru between transformers that do not need it. With 1.5mm wire and possibly 3 of them at a light, the crap terminals on drivers and the clamp etc cant cope, so the cheapest easiest way is to put an unswitched socket on the wires and then a 2 pin plug on the driver.

Also means that the lights can be removed and fitted easily by the gipstoppers/painters etc who in the past were able to take a lamp out of the downlight and then pop the downlight out of the ceiling, whereas with integrated drivers there isnt an easy way to do that without leaving them hanging on wires out the hole they are working around.

Richard rich.ms

kryptonjohn

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#1825925 20-Jul-2017 14:45

Couldn't login to comsumer to read the link, @Suckerpunch, but found this:

http://www.energysafety.govt.nz/consumer/safe-living-with-electricity/getting-electrical-work-done/doing-your-own-electrical-work

Wow! You may do a lot more than I realised as long as you believe you are competent and stay out of the switchboard!

What electrical work can I do?

You must own and live in the property to do the following work on low voltage electrical installations (when there is no payment or reward):

Remove and replace any of the following kinds of fittings, where the work does not involve work on any switchboard:
- Switches,
- Socket outlets,
- Permanent connection units,
- Light fittings,
- Batten holders,
- Cord grip lampholders,
- Ceiling roses,
- Flexible cords coed to any permanent connection unit, ceiling rose, or cord grip lampholder,
- Water heater switches,
- Thermostats,
- Elements.
Remove and replace fuse links.
Connect and disconnect fixed wired appliances.
Relocate existing switches, socket outlets, and lighting outlets that are supplied with electricity by toughplastic- sheathed cables.
Install, extend, and alter subcircuits (including submains), provided that:
- You must not enter (whether personally, by holding any material or equipment, or otherwise) any enclosure where live active conductors are likely to be present;
- You cannot connect your work to the electricity supply yourself
- You must get the finished work tested and connected by a licensed electrical inspector who will verify the safety of the completed work before connecting it. It is advisable to have consulted the inspector prior to starting any installation, extension, or alterations.

The big takeaway from the above for me me (and others here) is you may wire in your in-wall home automation switches!

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Suckerpunch

124 posts

Master Geek

#1826303 21-Jul-2017 06:54

Sorry bout the link @kryptonjohn.

The info on the consumer site is basically the same as what you and @kryptonjohn have found\posted.

karni

50 posts

Geek

#1826357 21-Jul-2017 09:26

I was recently asking myself a similar question (replacing halogen downlights with LED ones) and during my research I discovered that whilst it is certainly legal to do it here in NZ, be sure you can perform the work correctly and/or get it signed off by a sparkie afterwards because if there are any problems with it your insurance company will jump at the chance to decline a claim.

kryptonjohn

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#1826383 21-Jul-2017 10:13

I reckon the biggest risk I face with electricity in the house is driving a screw into a live wire behind the drywall. Just finished our refurb so am spending a lot of time screwing things to walls - toilet roll holders, hand rails etc etc. I have a stud-finder that reports AC but I'm still nervous...

Has anyone ever heard first hand about home handyman opening up a live wire or water pipe?

MikeSkyrme

272 posts

Ultimate Geek

Trusted

#1826388 21-Jul-2017 10:30

kryptonjohn:

I reckon the biggest risk I face with electricity in the house is driving a screw into a live wire behind the drywall. Just finished our refurb so am spending a lot of time screwing things to walls - toilet roll holders, hand rails etc etc. I have a stud-finder that reports AC but I'm still nervous...

Has anyone ever heard first hand about home handyman opening up a live wire or water pipe?

Unfortunately, yes, it is not uncommon, you can easily search the news sites for home handymen being electrocuted (underfloor insulation features quite a lot here).

Having said that, if you have just finished a refurb, was the wiring all replaced and installed correctly by a registered sparky (if wiring is run properly, the risk of being able to hit a wire is reduced significantly) and were RCD's fitted to all circuits at the DB?

Michael Skyrme - Instrumentation & Controls

kryptonjohn

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#1826397 21-Jul-2017 10:51

Yep all the wiring runs done by sparkies, probably spent over $20k on that trade alone.

The (brand new) switch board has RCDs... not sure how they relate to the circuits as there are 3 or 4 RCDs but many more breakers than that?

I didn't take enough notice of where the cables were before the gib went on... what is the best practice you refer to that helps avoid hitting wires?

nickb800

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#1826454 21-Jul-2017 11:59

MikeSkyrme:

kryptonjohn:

I reckon the biggest risk I face with electricity in the house is driving a screw into a live wire behind the drywall. Just finished our refurb so am spending a lot of time screwing things to walls - toilet roll holders, hand rails etc etc. I have a stud-finder that reports AC but I'm still nervous...

Has anyone ever heard first hand about home handyman opening up a live wire or water pipe?

Unfortunately, yes, it is not uncommon, you can easily search the news sites for home handymen being electrocuted (underfloor insulation features quite a lot here).

Having said that, if you have just finished a refurb, was the wiring all replaced and installed correctly by a registered sparky (if wiring is run properly, the risk of being able to hit a wire is reduced significantly) and were RCD's fitted to all circuits at the DB?

Just to add to this - best practice is running cables vertically (through top/bottom plates and dwangs/nogs) rather than horizontally through studs. Also meant to be in the middle of the framing, so screws less than say 40mm are a good idea. I'd be trying to fix things to studs rather than nogs/dwangs where possible, and using as short a screw as possible (but anchored into timber). Plastic wall toggles/wallmates shouldn't be much of a problem unless it's a dense area for cables e.g. above the switchboard.

kryptonjohn

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#1826462 21-Jul-2017 12:14

Roger. Look for studs, avoid nogs especially at centers

Thanks
JohnO

Suckerpunch

124 posts

Master Geek

#1826514 21-Jul-2017 14:02

kryptonjohn:

The (brand new) switch board has RCDs... not sure how they relate to the circuits as there are 3 or 4 RCDs but many more breakers than that?

Not sure if I'm pointing out the obvious here, but the RCD's are load rated higher then the fuse circuits. So 1 RCD covers multiple circuits.

Process of elimination to determine which circuits are covered by which RCD.

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