Right way to install dryer exhaust?

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boland

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#233407 15-Apr-2018 09:03

We're going to buy an exhaust dryer, to be put in our garage. Our house is made of weatherboard/wooden plates.

The dryer will be against the outside wall. No insulation in that wall.

Just to confirm I'm doing this right. Planning to install this kit and this drill set to get a 102mm drill

Couple of questions:

1. It comes with a 2.4m hose, but I only need 20 cm or so, can I cut it to length?

2. Do I have the right kit and drills?

3. Anything to keep in mind? Obviously I'll check for wires.

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Mad Scientist
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#1996279 15-Apr-2018 09:12

install the vent tube as straight as possible, if possible

RunningMan

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#1996282 15-Apr-2018 09:16

You might find that holesaw isn't great at getting through weatherboard - it may also not provide enough clearance around a 100mm duct to get it through. May have to use a jigsaw or similar hand held saw to cut the right size hole.

As for duct, have it as short as possible, but make sure there is enough length to allow for installation and moving the dryer in to place once it is all connected.

Make sure any exterior penetration is weathertight - don't want water leaking in around any hole you cut.

lNomNoml

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#1996283 15-Apr-2018 09:20

Otherwise if you're not sure just wing it like me :D

tdgeek

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#1996285 15-Apr-2018 09:26

lNomNoml:

Otherwise if you're not sure just wing it like me :D

Thats a far better solution! Tidy, compact, I like the cardboard protecting the sink. And when you want powder from the under sink storage, just wheel the washer and dryer out! Perfect :-)

antoniosk

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#1996300 15-Apr-2018 09:48

lNomNoml:

Otherwise if you're not sure just wing it like me :D

had that approach for 10years... damn if it didnt get dirty. new one is a condenser plumbed straight into sink... mmmm....

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boland

547 posts

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#1996336 15-Apr-2018 10:01

RunningMan:

You might find that holesaw isn't great at getting through weatherboard - it may also not provide enough clearance around a 100mm duct to get it through. May have to use a jigsaw or similar hand held saw to cut the right size hole.

As for duct, have it as short as possible, but make sure there is enough length to allow for installation and moving the dryer in to place once it is all connected.

Make sure any exterior penetration is weathertight - don't want water leaking in around any hole you cut.

Thanks! According to install instructions, 102mm should be good.

Maybe spend a bit more on a single bit? Looking at Mitre10/Bunnings, e.g. a Bosch + pilot bit would cost about $100...

Would this be better?

boland

547 posts

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#1996338 15-Apr-2018 10:01

lNomNoml:

Otherwise if you're not sure just wing it like me :D

Haha nice one, but mrs says no ;)

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fearandloathing

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#1996350 15-Apr-2018 10:36

If you don’t think you will use the hole saw again or the pilot bit again cheaper is ‘probably’ better.
When drilling the hole rotate the drill slightly off axis a bit, this will make drilling the hole easier and stop the hole saw binding. This will make the hole slightly larger. Practice on a offcut of wood.

Drill the inside first to make sure you clear any structure. Let the pilot drill pierce the out side wall to get your centre then drill from the other side

Seal all your joins with aluminium tape.

mdf

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#1996355 15-Apr-2018 10:50

Just querying the "weathboard and wooden plates" bit. Is the bit where the dryer coming out weatherboard or something smooth? Depending on the age, if it's something smooth, its probably not wood; more likely it will be some kind of fibrous board. Again, very age dependent, this may or may not include asbestos. Regardless, if it is a fibrous board, you will have no chance of getting through it with a holesaw. You will be better off tracing your circle and then drilling a series of small holes with a small masonry bit. You can then just whack it out and smooth it off with a file.

If it is relatively new weatherboards, the holesaw should be fine. If you have bevel back weatherboards, drill the back side first so you have a perpendicular hole for when you come from the front. A cheap holesaw will be fine for one or two holes (though it may never cut anything harder than butter after that again). You will need a chunky drill though. Preferably mains or you might need to stop and recharge your battery a few times.

If the weatherboards are older native timber, you will struggle with a holesaw regardless of its quality. As RunningMan said, you may be better off with a jigsaw (our old house had >100 year old matai weatherboards. Even the jigsaw wouldn't go through those and I was using a sabre saw. This didn't have particularly neat results. Saved by the vent covering my sins!).

Finally, which direction is the prevailing wind? I don't especially like louvered vents at the best of times (they can bang in the wind). But if they face a strong prevailing wind, they are useless since the wind holds them closed. We went with a cowling one like this: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/manrose-cowl-waterproof-100mm-white_p00555204 (they give you both a plastic flappy cover and a grill). Bunnings dryer kits are expensive, but they sell the components separately. If you've only got a really short run, you can potentially just pick up the bits and pieces you need off the shelf.

Finally, don't use duct tape. It doesn't work on ducting. Use a wide PVC jointing and sealing tape like Nitto 204E (super stuff).

Apologies for the lengthy/pedantic (depending on your perspective) post. You can possibly tell I have done this before. #learningfrommymistakes

RunningMan

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#1996385 15-Apr-2018 11:36

@mdf makes a really good point about the louvres - even the flap in the cowling type linked can bang in the wind - sometimes a fixed grill is better.

Bung

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#1996402 15-Apr-2018 11:44

With a drier any sort of grill will become a lint trap. Even with the drier lint filter the vent gets coated in fluff. I've got my drier venting outside with a rt angle bend and short pipe just to stop wind blowing directly into vent.

boland

547 posts

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#1996407 15-Apr-2018 11:55

@mdf awesome thank you for your reply!!! The house is from 2015, and it's all wood. I've drilled a small hole in another plate to hang something,.

Where the dryer is, there are smooth plates and weatherboard. I figured the smooth plate would be easier to drill through & seal.

Good points regarding the wind. The wall is a bit sheltered, so should be good. Worst case, what happens if the flaps won't open, so the dryer can lose its moist air? I assume the dryer shuts down automatically?

Thank you again for all the replies, Geekzone is really amazing.

mdf

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#1996411 15-Apr-2018 12:10

boland:

Worst case, what happens if the flaps won't open, so the dryer can lose its moist air? I assume the dryer shuts down automatically?

Depends on the dryer I'd guess? I know our one doesn't, it would just vent into the room.

Great news that you're just going through wood. Chuck a bit of wood primer on any cut surfaces (I tend to use a finger; it doesn't have to be neat) and you should be sorted.

If you're not sure about louvres vs fixed, maybe just screw the vent on to the wall for now (don't seal it with silicon). If it turns out not to work, it will be easier to change out.

When you do silicon it up, only do the top and sides. Leave the bottom unsealed for stuff to drain.

Suckerpunch

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#1997374 17-Apr-2018 07:25

Worst case, what happens if the flaps won't open, so the dryer can lose its moist air? I assume the dryer shuts down automatically?

I suspect they're not that intelligent.

Worst case, the vent won't open, the heat will build up and catch any lint on fire, causing a house fire. Make sure you clean the lint off regularly.

"About 27 fires were caused across New Zealand in 2015 by clothes or linen igniting while inside a dryer, including 13 at residential properties."
https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/75525211/Caution-urged-over-dryer-use-after-combusting-tea-towels-burn-part-of-school

UHD

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#1997431 17-Apr-2018 07:58

Sell the dryer that requires venting and get a condensing dryer.

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