I'm not a builder. However I love LVL in my garage projects since it is straight and true and I'm happy to pay a premium for that. 

Not having to sort out the bananas and straighten up walls once they're built should be a time saver (and so cost saver) for builders.

IIRC, there were some potential concerns about it a couple of years back but it has a pretty recent BRANZ approval: http://www.branz.co.nz/appraisal_window.php?apid=647&popup=nz_647

Brother is a builder and he loves how straight it is.  Only complaint is the weight.

I think that the trouble with LVL framing at the moment is getting some.  We've contacted a couple of the manufactuers (Nelson pine, and Juken) and they're telling us 6 months at least to supply for smaller players.  

May be able to get it quicker through Prenail plants though (we would’ve had a 3 month wait through our local ITM plant)

From the feedback from builders we’ve had (im an Architectural Designer), if you can get fast close in of the house you’re fine, but bottom plate (if lvl) moisture issues are a problem (if you use Hianddri bottom plate packers, this is probably a moot point) .  And sometimes fixing problems if using screws/skew nails. 

I suspect it’s like anything – many builders are reluctant to try new stuff.  Was probably similar to when in the mid 2000s when Douglas fir started to be used in framing. 

I’m all for LVL framing (and would be interested if someone bought in OSB framing from the USA too).

Thanks guys.

I guess my real question is:

As someone getting a house built on a fixed price contract, is it advantageous for me to pay a higher fixed price for LVL?

Since straightening up walls for gibbing etc will be up to the builder (and part of the price I'm already paying), is there any advantage for me as the home owner in going LVL?

Or is it something not to be concerned about, and just let the builder use what he prefers?

Depends on the builder, and your contract.  Are you under a contract now?  If you have a valid contract now,   A couple of the quotes I've seen from Prenail plants say "LVL framing - No extra charge"  .  So would potentially question the need for extra cost.  And/or potentially request a variation to the contract - remember variations don't have to always go up, then can bring the price down ie if the builder's not having to straighten studs because it's lvl = time saving.  But doubt many builder's would want to quatify that.  

How much extra are they wanting to charge?  

If was my house, and not a dream house, I'd avoid the extra cost.  If was closer to being a dream house, or had high end finishes etc, yes I'd go for LVL.

This is the NZ-approved way of straightening up a wall that has bowed due to issues with timber. Builder is based in Auckland, and judging from his other videos, is *waaaay* more careful than most.

I'd pay the extra for the straight LVL.

Rabbitcat:

 

Depends on the builder, and your contract.  Are you under a contract now?  If you have a valid contract now,   A couple of the quotes I've seen from Prenail plants say "LVL framing - No extra charge"  .  So would potentially question the need for extra cost.  And/or potentially request a variation to the contract - remember variations don't have to always go up, then can bring the price down ie if the builder's not having to straighten studs because it's lvl = time saving.  But doubt many builder's would want to quatify that.  

 

How much extra are they wanting to charge?  

 

If was my house, and not a dream house, I'd avoid the extra cost.  If was closer to being a dream house, or had high end finishes etc, yes I'd go for LVL.

 

Contract isn't signed yet, and I'm just assuming it will cost more.

Irrespective of the costs, as the homeowner, you won't see any tangible benefit of using LVL. 

mdf:

This is the NZ-approved way of straightening up a wall that has bowed due to issues with timber. Builder is based in Auckland, and judging from his other videos, is *waaaay* more careful than most.

neb: He's also waaay snowed under with work, been trying to get him to look at the house reno we're embarking on but no go. He would definitely be my first choice, but doing high-quality work also means you're in high demand.

Bung:

neb: He's also waaay snowed under with work, been trying to get him to look at the house reno we're embarking on but no go. He would definitely be my first choice, but doing high-quality work also means you're in high demand.

Real film directors have day and night crews of set carpenters. Scott would get through more work with less YT😁

Is LVL less prone to popped nails and screws?

It is, because it's more dimensionally stable.   And if you've got nails going into your gib, you should find another builder, that approach should've died in the late 90s!

Rabbitcat:

 

It is, because it's more dimensionally stable.   And if you've got nails going into your gib, you should find another builder, that approach should've died in the late 90s!

 

Thanks, but screws can pop as well right?

Yep, screws can still pop, just less likely too.

There's a few causes of popped screws, usually either, because the wood has moved (Either because of an earthquake or more likely it's dried out (there's a minimum moistrue content of 18% for the timber framing that the council test for prior giving the all clear for lining with gib, but IIRC the normal moisture content of an older house is something like 12-13% so there's a fair drop in there)

or

Because of poor installation (when you put glue too close to the screw (the glue dries, and as it dries it shrinks and pulls the gib closer to the framing but the screw(and it's plaster on top of it) doesn't get pulled closer, and pops), or if the screw has been driven in too far, and goes past the outer paper face of the gib.