Geekzone: technology news, blogs, forums
Guest
Welcome Guest.
You haven't logged in yet. If you don't have an account you can register now.


danepak

1112 posts

Uber Geek


#255759 27-Aug-2019 22:14
Send private message

I was hoping that someone could help me.

 

I'm missing a small metal thing (see photo) of the inside of the fitting. On one of the photos you can see it. On the other one, it's missing.

 

Without it, I can't screw the lightbulb in.

 

I've been to Bunnings, Mitre 10 and JA Russell. None of them can assist.

 

 

 

The actual model of the outdoor lamp is: http://thelightbulbshop.co.nz/fittings/incandescent-fittings/qhf560-twin-floodflight-sensor/#.XWT_fJMzaps

 

I could obviously buy a new one, but then I'll need an electrician to install it as well.

 

 

 

Any help is much appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Create new topic
sparkz25
750 posts

Ultimate Geek
Inactive user


  #2307073 27-Aug-2019 22:23
Send private message

You will pretty much have to replace that lamp holder or replace the entire fitting.

 

Bunnings and Miter 10 Will not have that part at all as that metal part is part of the porcelain lamp holder itself.

 

If to go to Ideal or J.A.Russell you should be able to get a replacement porcelain lamp holder if you chose to go down that track.




Technofreak
6530 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

  #2307074 27-Aug-2019 22:27
Send private message

It's part of the receptacle, you won't be able to buy it separately.

 

It's my guess if came out when the bulb was unscrewed from the receptacle. 

 

You may get lucky and be able to buy a receptacle that fits onto that light fitting, otherwise unfortunately you'll need to buy a complete new fitting.





Sony Xperia XA2 running Sailfish OS. https://sailfishos.org The true independent open source mobile OS 
Samsung Galaxy Tab S6
Dell Inspiron 14z i5




sparkz25
750 posts

Ultimate Geek
Inactive user


  #2307079 27-Aug-2019 22:39
Send private message

Short Answer is no, you can try but you will be better off replacing the lamp holder as a whole.

 

when you put new lamps in, Put a small blob of graphite or anti-seize on the thread of the lamp to prevent it corroding and getting stuck and don't over tighten the lamps.


danepak

1112 posts

Uber Geek


  #2307090 27-Aug-2019 23:04
Send private message

OK, thanks


  #2307401 28-Aug-2019 16:56
Send private message

If you're the homeowner, and you follow the instructions in ECP 51, you can do some electrical work. Including replacing light fittings.

 

 

https://codehub.building.govt.nz/home/resources/nzecp-512004/

scuwp
3885 posts

Uber Geek


  #2307464 28-Aug-2019 19:35
Send private message

You can replace like for like, this is a pretty simple install IMO.  Just replace the whole thing. I don't believe you need a Sparky.   





Lazy is such an ugly word, I prefer to call it selective participation



 
 
 

Cloud spending continues to surge globally, but most organisations haven’t made the changes necessary to maximise the value and cost-efficiency benefits of their cloud investments. Download the whitepaper From Overspend to Advantage now.
E3xtc
773 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2307587 29-Aug-2019 07:44
Send private message

Just do the necessary/obvious and isolate the circuit/power before doing anything :O 


TheMantis
142 posts

Master Geek
Inactive user


  #2307775 29-Aug-2019 12:42
Send private message

Don’t forget to test for isolation using the correct functional test equipment before commencing work. This is clearly stated in ECP 51, paragraph 1.6.1 and 1.6.2 and is mandatory.

duckDecoy
896 posts

Ultimate Geek

Subscriber

  #2307781 29-Aug-2019 13:00
Send private message

TheMantis: Don’t forget to test for isolation using the correct functional test equipment before commencing work. This is clearly stated in ECP 51, paragraph 1.6.1 and 1.6.2 and is mandatory.

 

Edit: added @TheMantis tag

 

I know zero about electrical work, but now im curious.  What is the test/equipment that you (or a typical home owner) would use to do this?


  #2307786 29-Aug-2019 13:15
Send private message

A multimeter or something else capable of measuring 250+ AC volts. Clip-on ammeters and some other test gear will also usually have the same functions. Do not use a meter set to current mode, and ensure the leads are in the correct terminals. Some meters default to DC; you'll need to change this. Test between all conductors present, and preferably a known good ground like an extension lead to the nearest socket.

 

 

Prove that the meter is working on a known live source (e.g. a power socket) before and after you do the test. Prove-test-prove. This ensures that your meter is set correctly and hasn't been damaged while you're testing.

 

 

ECP51 doesn't allow you to use non-contact testers (the ones that you hold up to a cable and they beep). They are prone to false positives, and occasionally give false negatives in cases like neutral screened cable (big cables like your house mains, generally only found underground or in some older commercial facilities), DC, and wet cable.

Technofreak
6530 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

  #2307792 29-Aug-2019 13:24
Send private message

duckDecoy:

 

TheMantis: Don’t forget to test for isolation using the correct functional test equipment before commencing work. This is clearly stated in ECP 51, paragraph 1.6.1 and 1.6.2 and is mandatory.

 

Edit: added @TheMantis tag

 

I know zero about electrical work, but now im curious.  What is the test/equipment that you (or a typical home owner) would use to do this?

 

 

Stick a screw driver across the terminals. If it sparks and arcs it's not safe to work on. If the sparking and arcing stops while screw driver is across the terminals then you've probably been successful in blowing the circuit breaker or fuse, then it's probably safe to work on. 

 

If there was no sparking and arcing at all then the circuit was most likely already isolated therefore safe to work on.

 

Just joking.

 

In all seriousness you would use a multimeter or an AC tester.





Sony Xperia XA2 running Sailfish OS. https://sailfishos.org The true independent open source mobile OS 
Samsung Galaxy Tab S6
Dell Inspiron 14z i5


duckDecoy
896 posts

Ultimate Geek

Subscriber

  #2307799 29-Aug-2019 13:30
Send private message

SomeoneSomewhere: A multimeter or something else capable of measuring 250+ AC volts. Clip-on ammeters and some other test gear will also usually have the same functions. Do not use a meter set to current mode, and ensure the leads are in the correct terminals. Some meters default to DC; you'll need to change this. Test between all conductors present, and preferably a known good ground like an extension lead to the nearest socket.

 

@SomeoneSomewhere

 

Can you give me more details as to what you are doing here?  Its not that I plan to do it, its that I know zero and am curious.

 

I assumed you are putting the leads onto the positive and negative bits of the light and seeing if any current is flowing (or voltage is present, not sure of terminology).  But I don't understand the ground wire statement, so perhaps that's not what you're doing.


duckDecoy
896 posts

Ultimate Geek

Subscriber

  #2307800 29-Aug-2019 13:32
Send private message

Technofreak:

 

Stick a screw driver across the terminals. If it sparks and arcs it's not safe to work on.

 

 

Are you using this technique because its too difficult to squeeze your tongue down there and give it a lick?


  #2307804 29-Aug-2019 13:40
Send private message

You're looking for voltage being present.

 

 

Voltage is always measured between two points. A sensor light like OP has potentially has at least four terminals inside it - earth, neutral, phase in, and the sensor-switched phase out. I personally wouldn't test to the inside of the bulb socket; you have too much chance of touching both terminals at once.

 

 

It's easier to explain and safer to simply say to test everything, rather than only those which are really necessary. It also helps avoid the risk of things being wrongly coloured/labelled.

 

 

There's a vanishingly small chance that *all* the wires at the fitting are live. If so, you'll never see any voltage between them, but could still get a shock. If we test to another point, like the actual physical dirt, or the earth terminal on a socket (which should be safe to touch - it's connected to the metal case of all your appliances), we know that's not happened either.

 

 


Create new topic





News and reviews »

Air New Zealand Starts AI adoption with OpenAI
Posted 24-Jul-2025 16:00


eero Pro 7 Review
Posted 23-Jul-2025 12:07


BeeStation Plus Review
Posted 21-Jul-2025 14:21


eero Unveils New Wi-Fi 7 Products in New Zealand
Posted 21-Jul-2025 00:01


WiZ Introduces HDMI Sync Box and other Light Devices
Posted 20-Jul-2025 17:32


RedShield Enhances DDoS and Bot Attack Protection
Posted 20-Jul-2025 17:26


Seagate Ships 30TB Drives
Posted 17-Jul-2025 11:24


Oclean AirPump A10 Water Flosser Review
Posted 13-Jul-2025 11:05


Samsung Galaxy Z Fold7: Raising the Bar for Smartphones
Posted 10-Jul-2025 02:01


Samsung Galaxy Z Flip7 Brings New Edge-To-Edge FlexWindow
Posted 10-Jul-2025 02:01


Epson Launches New AM-C550Z WorkForce Enterprise printer
Posted 9-Jul-2025 18:22


Samsung Releases Smart Monitor M9
Posted 9-Jul-2025 17:46


Nearly Half of Older Kiwis Still Write their Passwords on Paper
Posted 9-Jul-2025 08:42


D-Link 4G+ Cat6 Wi-Fi 6 DWR-933M Mobile Hotspot Review
Posted 1-Jul-2025 11:34


Oppo A5 Series Launches With New Levels of Durability
Posted 30-Jun-2025 10:15









Geekzone Live »

Try automatic live updates from Geekzone directly in your browser, without refreshing the page, with Geekzone Live now.



Are you subscribed to our RSS feed? You can download the latest headlines and summaries from our stories directly to your computer or smartphone by using a feed reader.