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Antoniosk
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Here is the cabinet I did for my father lol... Showed up and all the "Tools" he had that "I didn't need to worry about bringing" were non existent so made do. Sparkie had left us that gaping hole, his cable runs were a mix of two holes in the top place and then a couple runs down under the house. (We specifically asked for all to be roof run)
Thats the switch plates we used. Cabinet has switches, modem, NVR and splitter for TV.
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Coil:
Top RJ45's are upside down. 
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sbiddle:
Top RJ45's are upside down.
does it really matter? makes it easier to unplug as the clips are more accessable
sbiddle:
Coil:
Top RJ45's are upside down.
Do you have slinky Alien fingers to release the tab ;)
I knew you were a hybrid!
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Jase2985:
sbiddle:
Top RJ45's are upside down.
does it really matter? makes it easier to unplug as the clips are more accessable
As already mentioned above the official reasons are in the spec are to prevent dust and moisture settling on the connectors. In the real world does it really matter? Probably not.
It does however show that whoever did it has not undergone any real training or understanding of connectors which is really the key thing as it's one of the first key things you'll learn.
sbiddle:
Jase2985:
sbiddle:
Top RJ45's are upside down.
does it really matter? makes it easier to unplug as the clips are more accessable
As already mentioned above the official reasons are in the spec are to prevent dust and moisture settling on the connectors. In the real world does it really matter? Probably not.
It does however show that whoever did it has not undergone any real training or understanding of connectors which is really the key thing as it's one of the first key things you'll learn.
I did it, and I'm somewhat trained.
I also did that intentionally as my dad has big fat fingers and I'd rather not be called 2 hours of out Auckland cause he broke one out of the socket cause he couldn't get his finger in there.... If there is moisture in his house that would affect those sockets, then he has a much larger issue at hand.. Logic prevails...
But I know you already know this.
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Just to give an update on this. Nothing much has progressed on this.
After the issues with the first home distribution box install (see first post) we insisted that the builder gets the installer to provide a network plan, as well as consult and work with a networking expert. The installer is employed directly by the builder. In the specs of the house built, it does say that the installer is to be an experienced network installer, and has to provide a plan that the client has to agree with prior to the work being carried out. They however didn't provide this before they started work on the network install, and have only just provided this today. The install was also to be to the TCF Premises Wiring Cable Installers Guidelines for Telecommunication Services . https://www.tcf.org.nz/assets/guidelines/tcf-premises-wiring-cable-installers-guidelines-endorsed-oct-2015.pdf The home distributor box layout should have looked similar to the one in that document in the photo on page 30 which includes terminating the cat6 cables to a patch panel.
We do want it to have a patch panel, which is one of the requirements in the TCL document. We want the patch panel for a range of reasons, partly for the reasons people have previously mentioned, including wear and tear on plugs and cables, cable management and naming of jacks making identification easier etc.
We did say from the start when they initially inserted the box into the wall, that the home distributor box looked too small for the number of cables coming into it. It was also supposed to have 2 double hotpoints in the box as this is shown on the plans. However they didn't install the hotpoints in it, instead they are outside the cabinet to the left, so the hotpoints don't have any purpose in that position, and they were aware of all this prior to the network install. So they have had to install a single double hotpoint in the cabinet, and from the layout plan of the box, it looks like they are then having to install a multiboard, which takes up more room.
We have already told them that we want the cat6 cables to terminate to patch panels, but they haven't included this in this diagram or components list. As suggested by others, these look to be a good brand for patch panels http://www.dynamix.co.nz/PP10-C6-12 . I think the reason they have omitted them is because their isn't enough room in the cabinet to have them as well as teh patch leads, as it is already full with the switches, the ONT, the TV splitter box etc. It looks to be a standard small cabinet.
This is their parts schedule and plan they have just provided us below
Data Cabinet Parts Schedule
Hubbell Cat6a 4-Pair Data cable throughout. (Blue and Grey)
Hubbell Home/Work 28 Enclosure
NetGear 16 Port x 3 8 Port x 1 Gigabit Ethernet Switch
NetGear 5 Port PoE GigE
PDL Shallow Mounting Block
PDL 695 Double Horizontal Switched Socket
PDL 600 Series RJ45 Switch Mod Data Plus Cat6 BK
Dynamix RJ45 Modular Plugs
Belden RG6 Coax 75ohm Sky BK and WH
Match Master F-Type RG6 Connectors
Match Master 8way Splitter
I would welcome peoples opinions on what has been spec’d and layout of the HDP , for both the network and tv cabling (which will just be for UHF freeview). As it will have a couple of security cameras on the network, we did ask for a 5 port POE switch. But is this the best way to do it?
Do people think they should just install a new larger surface mounted cabinet that is a more appropriate size. That way there is more space for them to install patch panels, and space between components with ventilation. They could then include the 2x double hotpoints that should have been in the box originally. Space isn’t a problem, as this is inside a large cupboard that was designed to house a large home distribution cabinet. Personally I think installing a new box is the only solution, but finding one that is wide and long isn’t that easy, unless custom made . Most seem to just be long but narrow, and I think the cat6 cables now that they have been cut, could possibly be too short to wire into vertical patch panels in a long cabinet.
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