[Snap] Internal Wiring Hampering ADSL connection. Potential fixes welcome.

Forums › 2degrees (including Slingshot, Orcon, Flip, Stuff Fibre, MyRepublic, 2talk and Vocus) › [Snap] Internal Wiring Hampering ADSL connection. Potential fixes welcome.

D3ADLYTuna

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Wannabe Geek

#122092 24-Jun-2013 16:36

I have just moved into a new flat and have set up my connection with Snap.
as the line attenuation for my place is 14 on a pre qual check I have ADSL2+.

After speaking with Snap regarding my regular disconnections from DSL and my rather high error rate. 1200 in 24 hours. Currently 24 in the last 7 mins. ( unrecoverable )

I have just been speaking with two friends of mine who are both electricians and I have found the master phone jack in the house. Being the one with the Yellow capacitor looking thing.

I have bridged the connections and disconnected from the master board and have as such sent the signal straight through the house wiring to my current port downstairs, Less than 5 metres of cable I suspect.

Now my friend the Master electrician has told me that the internal wiring should make almost no difference to the noise and that I just need to crimp the wires together. I have decided to disconnect every other phone jack in the house just to be sure.

After doing so I have reduced my down noise by 1Db from 23 to 22. send is still stuck on 12.

My SNR is 12 also. Now I was reading about the master filter however it is not my home to have one installed in. I am also currently using a Dlink line filter for the DSL at the jack.

Are there any other options that I can try to help reduce my line noise and speed up my connection.

According to the Pre qual I should be around 900m from the exchange box or cabinet. and with 14Db noise I should be getting much faster than 8Mbps down and 1Mbps up.

Help and thoughts would be appreciated. I am located in the Ellerslie area, so If you think you can help please post here or text or call my cellphone. 021979311

Just want to say that snap has been very helpful but I am just trying everything to sort this myself as I cannot afford to have a line tech come and fix things.

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Geekzone

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#843457 24-Jun-2013 16:36

Hello... Our robot found some keywords in your post, so here is an automated reply with some important things to note regarding broadband speeds.

If you are posting regarding DSL speeds please check that

- you have reset your modem and router

- your PC (or other PCs in your LAN) is not downloading large files when you are testing

- you are not being throttled by your ISP due to going over the monthly cap

- your tests are always done on an ethernet connection to the router - do not use wireless for testing

- you read this topic and follow the instructions there.

Make sure you provide information for other users to help you. If you have not already done it, please EDIT your post and add this now:

- Your ISP and plan

- Type of connection (ADSL, ADSL2, VDSL)

- Your modem DSL stats (do not worry about posting Speedtest, we need sync rate, attenuation and noise margin)

- Your general location (or street)

- If you are rural or urban

- If you know your connection is to an exchange, cabinet or conklin

- If your connection is to a ULL or wholesale service

- If you have done an isolation test as per the link above

Most of the problems with speed are likely to be related to internal wiring issues. Read this discussion to find out more about this. Your ISP is not intentionally slowing you down today (unless you are on a managed plan). Also if this is the school holidays it's likely you will notice slower than usual speed due to more users online.

A master splitter is required for VDSL2 and in most cases will improve speeds on DSL connections. Regular disconnections can be a monitored alarm or a set top box trying to connect. If there's an alarm connected to your line even if you don't have an alarm contract it may still try to connect so it's worth checking.

I recommend you read these two blog posts:

- Is your premises phone wiring impacting your broadband performance? (very technical)

- Are you receiving a substandard ULL ADSL2+ connection from your ISP?

I am the Geekzone Robot and I am here to help. I am from the Internet. I do not interact. Do not expect other replies from me.

These links are referral codes: Sharesies | Mighty Ape

wellygary

8312 posts

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#843469 24-Jun-2013 16:45

Paging, Dr Coffeebaron, would Coffeebaron please pick up the white phone, :)

To the OP, he should be along soon.....

CYaBro

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#843475 24-Jun-2013 16:58

Your modem is definitely ADSL2+ compatible?

Have you tried the modem directly into the master jack, with everything else disconnected, to see what you get?

Opinions are my own and not the views of my employer.

D3ADLYTuna

10 posts

Wannabe Geek

#843482 24-Jun-2013 17:07

Yes its the fritz box 7340. I have also tried a different modem. (dlink) the Dlink showed higher noise at 23.5 however also showed a higher attainable rate being 12mbps. The fritz is currently showing an attainable rate of 9.

I have tried every jack, and every config. the only thing left to do is disconnect the downstairs jack and bypass the capacitor thing on the master to see if that helps. otherwise I have done everything I can think of.

Apart from manually editing the settings on the config file as mentioned in the VDSL discussion.

freitasm

BDFL - Memuneh
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#843484 24-Jun-2013 17:09

You need someone who can actually install a master splitter in your line, test it and know what they're talking about. Send a PM to CoffeeBaron.

D3ADLYTuna

10 posts

Wannabe Geek

#843486 24-Jun-2013 17:10

Problems with this approach.

A: I cant afford a master splitter.
B: It's not my house and I cant add things to the place without the landlords permission.
C: Insert here.

RunningMan

8953 posts

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#843493 24-Jun-2013 17:18

Follow the post by PeterReader, and then get back to us with full line stats etc.

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wongtop

563 posts

Ultimate Geek

#843496 24-Jun-2013 17:20

D3ADLYTuna: Problems with this approach.

A: I cant afford a master splitter.
B: It's not my house and I cant add things to the place without the landlords permission.
C: Insert here.

In that case;
1. Convert the M phone socket into a 2 wire (2 wire sockets used to be available from the likes of the warehouse)
2. Disconnect all the downstream wiring from the socket
3. Plug your modem into this socket (should be the only functional socket remaining)

This should give you pretty much the same ADSL performance as a master filter install - but the socket might not be where you want it to be from a wireless performance point of view.

D3ADLYTuna

10 posts

Wannabe Geek

#843497 24-Jun-2013 17:22

Receive Direction Send Direction
Max. DSLAM throughput kbit/s 29552 1344
Min. DSLAM throughput kbit/s 360 360
Attainable throughput kbit/s 9440 1025
Current throughput kbit/s 8866 1029

Latency fast fast
Bitswap on off
Seamless Rate Adaptation off off
Impulse Noise Protection (INP) 0.0 0.0
Energy-saving mode L2 NA - -

Signal-to-noise ratio dB 12 12
Line attenuation dB 22 11
Power reduction dB 0 0
Carrier record A43 A43

FRITZ!Box 44 0 4 66 3 49
DSL Telephone Switch 0 0 0 0 0 0

Snap ADSL 2+ FS/FS . Location Ellerslie. I think it is cabinet connection. All tests have been conducted. This is current pasted from Fritz

D3ADLYTuna

10 posts

Wannabe Geek

#843498 24-Jun-2013 17:24

wongtop:
D3ADLYTuna: Problems with this approach.

A: I cant afford a master splitter.
B: It's not my house and I cant add things to the place without the landlords permission.
C: Insert here.

In that case;
1. Convert the M phone socket into a 2 wire (2 wire sockets used to be available from the likes of the warehouse)
2. Disconnect all the downstream wiring from the socket
3. Plug your modem into this socket (should be the only functional socket remaining)

This should give you pretty much the same ADSL performance as a master filter install - but the socket might not be where you want it to be from a wireless performance point of view.

How do I know what the downstream wiring is? I can deal with the socket location. There are two white wires going into this socket. Both have orange and white coming from them. Atm I have twisted the two orange and two white cables together and left it disconnected from the master socket.

RunningMan

8953 posts

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#843503 24-Jun-2013 17:37

Do you know where / how the line enters the house from the street (where the ETP is)?

Will generally be a black cable either overhead, or from a conduit under ground.

nickb800

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#843576 24-Jun-2013 19:44

RunningMan: Do you know where / how the line enters the house from the street (where the ETP is)?

Will generally be a black cable either overhead, or from a conduit under ground.

Both of which often terminate in a white box on the outside of the house.

IMHO I would just go ahead and get the master splitter installed, technically you need landlords permission, but it is improving the house not damaging it, and they will never know

Bung

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#843578 24-Jun-2013 19:50

D3ADLYTuna: How do I know what the downstream wiring is? I can deal with the socket location. There are two white wires going into this socket. Both have orange and white coming from them. Atm I have twisted the two orange and two white cables together and left it disconnected from the master socket.

Was the socket that you say is the master marked with an "M" or a "2"? The presence of a capacitor doesn't make a socket the master as all early pattern 2 wire sockets had a capacitor. Your socket only had 2 wires leaving it rather than 3.

A wire pair would be a white and an orange/white. At the "master" the upstream pair would give you dial tone, the other pair would go to the rest of the sockets.

The older M and S sockets had connection strips with 1 slot for each contact in the socket. The pair goes to 2&5.

The newer 2 wire have 1strip of 3 connectors connected to each of the active socket contacts. All whites to 1 side, colours to the other.

If your sockets are all in series with none starring off and you don't have any phones plugged in, your modem performance problem probably lies somewhere else.

coffeebaron

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#843603 24-Jun-2013 20:19

As others have said, a professionally installed master splitter and wiring check is the best option. I've done these at rental properties without issue, I've even had the odd landlord pay for it too! (Not the norm of course).

I'm here if you need my help, and I'm happy to talk payment arrangement if the cost is too much in one hit.

Cheers
Fraser

Rural IT and Broadband support.

Broadband troubleshooting and master filter installs.
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Need help in Auckland, Waikato or BoP? Click my email button, or email me direct: [my user name] at geekzonemail dot com

D3ADLYTuna

10 posts

Wannabe Geek

#843643 24-Jun-2013 21:32

Bung:
D3ADLYTuna: How do I know what the downstream wiring is? I can deal with the socket location. There are two white wires going into this socket. Both have orange and white coming from them. Atm I have twisted the two orange and two white cables together and left it disconnected from the master socket.

Was the socket that you say is the master marked with an "M" or a "2"? The presence of a capacitor doesn't make a socket the master as all early pattern 2 wire sockets had a capacitor. Your socket only had 2 wires leaving it rather than 3.

A wire pair would be a white and an orange/white. At the "master" the upstream pair would give you dial tone, the other pair would go to the rest of the sockets.

The older M and S sockets had connection strips with 1 slot for each contact in the socket. The pair goes to 2&5.

The newer 2 wire have 1strip of 3 connectors connected to each of the active socket contacts. All whites to 1 side, colours to the other.

If your sockets are all in series with none starring off and you don't have any phones plugged in, your modem performance problem probably lies somewhere else.

The socket had a big M in the top right corner. There are only two wires with smaller cores coming into this socket. It is the classic older phone jack socket in the protruding square white box.

Walking around the property the only thing I can see in terms of the ETP is a small ish black wire coming from the power pole to the house, It ends in the corner and is about 2m lower on the pole than the power wires to the property. No white boxes around the property and no obvious wiring coming up from the ground.

I will see if i can convince the landlord to install the master filter.

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